10s2p connections

[CraigP]

Here's one I think will help you a little bit better. The batteries would be 5s, to make a 10s2p system. The drawing is marked 8S2P, but it can be anything you want. All wires are butt soldered and heat shrink installed. The connector should be at least 5.5mm, but it really depends on your current draw. Remember that Cap Bank, close to the ESC!

I hope that helps!

[srislash]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]153868[/ATTACH]

Does this look right?

Yes that is correct.
And so is Craig's example, just different.

[CraigP]

You'll need a charging wire, especially at 10s. I would just put in a loose connector, female covered in heat shrink and connected to the battery side. The male is connected to the ESC. I use a 50 Ohm, 1/2W resistor with a wire and alligator clip on each side. I connect that between the loose connectors, wait about 3-5 seconds, then connect up the loose connectors. The loose connector should be on the Plus wire, it's better on the electronics to maintain a solid ground connection throughout the system.

[srislash]

You'll need a charging wire, especially at 10s. I would just put in a loose connector, female covered in heat shrink and connected to the battery side. The male is connected to the ESC. I use a 50 Ohm, 1/2W resistor with a wire and alligator clip on each side. I connect that between the loose connectors, wait about 3-5 seconds, then connect up the loose connectors. The loose connector should be on the Plus wire, it's better on the electronics to maintain a solid ground connection throughout the system.

Craig is meaning an anti-spark here and has me thinking I have improvements to do. I started my 'charge leads' on the negative side as that is how those first test Flier ESC's came. Thanks Craig, it makes sense .

[CraigP]

The reason I put the parallel banks on each side is the keep the #10 runs short. Better to have the longer run in #8. But it is up to you, as Shawn says, both work fine.. Good luck with this and be careful, spark overs at 10s are frightening!

[Pennstater]

Thanks so much (srislash) for the confirmation and (CraigP) for the diagram!!!

Any advice/recommendations on a cap bank? I've never used one before, but it sounds like one is recommended in this type of scenario.

[CraigP]

Yeah and you'll need a loose connector on each of the ESC wires. I hard wire mine in. I try to use as few connectors as possible. So I would leave the inter-connection harness (inside wire harness) soldered to the ESC plus (red). Some like it fully modular. As you can see, it takes a bit of thinking to visualize what you want. Don't rush it, think it through...

[CraigP]

Thanks so much (srislash) for the confirmation and (CraigP) for the diagram!!!

Any advice/recommendations on a cap bank? I've never used one before, but it sounds like one is recommended in this type of scenario.

You can search for ESC Cap Bank on the interwebs.. Get a 12s unit, you always want a little higher rating than what you'll use it at. It will last longer! Glad we could help out...

[CraigP]

Check this part out on the OSE Store: Product ID: hef-cap-hv

I make my own, but this looks pretty good.

[srislash]

Check this part out on the OSE Store: Product ID: hef-cap-hv

I make my own, but this looks pretty good.

I was going to suggest the Etti one but I see OSE is out of stock.

[Pennstater]

Has anyone used Amass AS150 7mm anti-spark connectors (Amazon) before?

Or how about these: Jeti AFC Anti-Spark Connectors 5.5mm (150A) (they also have 8mm)?

[srislash]

I have not tried any of these built in ones. It should be a good idea. I just use the separate lead resistor style. But this built in looks good

[Pennstater]

DE7D2157-32C5-4C5B-B46D-BEFB6D99FD75.jpg

My Xs2p wiring harness. Only took me five months to finish. Still need to update my batteries with 6mm bullets and add the cap bank onto the ESC’s leads to call it complete (so maybe another month, lol).