Lithium dielectric grease on battery bullets?

[kfxguy]

You guys thing it would hurt to put a little dielectric grease on my battery connectors? Sometimes they are so hard to pull apart, especially in cold weather when my fingers are freezing lol.

[Peter A]

Nope, and it can only help. I use it with no problems.

[kfxguy]

Nope, and it can only help. I use it with no problems.

Awesome! I just tried some and the plugs came apart a good bit easier. I feel like I'm about to rip the wires out the esc everytime I unplug. When I change props I have to remove both batteries to unplug them. Ugh

[785boats]

But dielectric grease by it's definition is an insulating grease. It can increase the resistance of the connection. Dielectric grease is not meant for electrical connections.
You would be better off using a conducting grease. That's what we use on all our transformer & switchboard connections at work.
There are many silver or carbon conductive greases on the market.

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/greases-and-lubricants/conductive-greases/silver-conductive-grease-8463/

[kfxguy]

But dielectric grease by it's definition is an insulating grease. It can increase the resistance of the connection. Dielectric grease is not meant for electrical connections.
You would be better off using a conducting grease. That's what we use on all our transformer & switchboard connections at work.
There are many silver or carbon conductive greases on the market.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/...e-grease-8463/

Well crapper! I started putting some in my connections. Guess I better clean them out. Sounds like that stuff would add to my connection

[ls1fst98]

found this on another forum....so if you want something that will work and not insulate....

There is so much misinformation on the Internet these days that I know my heads-up here is nothing more than a drop in the bucket but I thought many of you fellow brick riders might want to know. I just want to set the record straight as best I can.

So what to use instead of dielectric grease? Conductive grease such as Noalox, GB Ox-Guard or any anti-sieze with preferably copper as the main ingredient (aluminum is a very close second) will help prevent corrosion while maintaining and promoting electrical conductivity. I use Noalox on all of my electrical connections on my bike as well as on my antenna connections that are outdoors and exposed to the elements (I'm also a licensed radio amateur) and it really makes a difference

[kfxguy]

Better yet, copper or silver anti seize?

[785boats]

Silver is the most conductive.

[kfxguy]

I just grabbed some copper antiseize. My whole purpose is to make the bullets a little easier to pull apart.....the extra conductivity is a bonus.

[SD Eracer]

You guys thing it would hurt to put a little dielectric grease on my battery connectors? Sometimes they are so hard to pull apart, especially in cold weather when my fingers are freezing lol.

Just take a pair of pliers, put some tape on the teeth to prevent marring, and lightly press on the male connector prongs to gently push them together, making them less tight when connected to the female end.

For 8mm Castle connectors I like to use, this is a must. I have used a light coating of Corrosion-X in the past, but this works best.

[kfxguy]

Just take a pair of pliers, put some tape on the teeth to prevent marring, and lightly press on the male connector prongs to gently push them together, making them less tight when connected to the female end.

For 8mm Castle connectors I like to use, this is a must. I have used a light coating of Corrosion-X in the past, but this works best.

Conventional wisdom tells me that would increase my resistance at the connection, no? What comes to mind is back in the day on a brushed motor you could push on the brushes and hear the rpm increase, hence stronger brush springs. Just trying to keep that good tight connection but some sort of lube to help it come apart easier. I've been reading and the copper antiseize might just be what I'm after. It should even add to my connection.

[ls1fst98]

Yes, reducing the tension on the male would also make that connection have more resistance electrically. You want it nice n tight. The route you are going Travis is what I would try.

[SD Eracer]

Yes, reducing the tension on the male would also make that connection have more resistance electrically. You want it nice n tight. The route you are going Travis is what I would try.

How, its still making full contact with the female connector, its just the level of tension is lower. The tension on Castle 8mm connectors is so high, its pretty much impossible to remove them without some sort of tool.

Even with lightly loosening the tension, its still more difficult to remove than your typical 5.5mm connector, its plenty tight, but now you can remove it without needing tools or superhuman strength to pull them apart.

[ls1fst98]

Think of a loose battery terminal on your car...its still making contact to run lights, radio, other accessories, but once you hit it a high amp pull from the starter....it's dead....loses contact.

[SD Eracer]

Think of a loose battery terminal on your car...its still making contact to run lights, radio, other accessories, but once you hit it a high amp pull from the starter....it's dead....loses contact.

I see your point there, but we are not talking about loose here. The effort to remove my 8mm connectors is about twice is much as removing stock Castle 5.5mm.

Let me put it this way, my old Genesis had a 70 mph crash and flip that was so strong it caused the both 3S 5000mAh batteries in each sponson to come lose, break out the canopy, fly outside the boat while still flipping through the air. Both batteries were ruined because of the saltwater, but they were still connected to the boat and ESC by those 8mm connectors.

Trust me, there is plenty of tension and strength holding them on. But just lose enough to actually remove them by hand.