Batteries are getting hot and puffing
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.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s -
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thanks for posting...NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
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Just got back from another run with a pair of zippy soft packs 5000mah 45c 2s, move the strut down 1 1/8 in from 3/4 in. and man was she flying. Set my timer at 3.5 min for a total run of 4 min. and the batteries showed 3.70v each and took 2211mah to re charge them, so I think 4 min. is going to be the max time for this set up.Comment
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Just got back from another run with a pair of zippy soft packs 5000mah 45c 2s, move the strut down 1 1/8 in from 3/4 in. and man was she flying. Set my timer at 3.5 min for a total run of 4 min. and the batteries showed 3.70v each and took 2211mah to re charge them, so I think 4 min. is going to be the max time for this set up.
Where is the bottom of your strut to the bottom of the sponsons?
Thanks.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
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You do have a couple of other options.
A lipo Shield is set at 3.2V cut off & that usually leaves some capacity in the pack at cut out. You would have to do some testing. But it would be cheaper than new packs & you could use your good race packs.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hld-32&cat=136
Or Replace the ESC with one that has programable cutouts that can be set to 3.2 or 3.4V You would only need a $50.00 Turnigy 120A for that set up.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
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Not sure how to get that mesurement I took it from bottom of hull to bottom of the strut where the prop shaft goes through. I ended up moving the strut back up 1/8 in. might be alittle slower but I seem to have more control in the turns. THIS THING IS TO FAST FOR OUR LITTLE POND!!! Need to find bigger waters.Comment
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It's also worth mentioning that the 40x57 prop is not stock on the UL-1. It's actually a pretty agressive upgrade that pushes things that much harder. You may want to try a 40x52/3. The lower pitch will slow things down a bit and lower the current draw.
I've been messing around with mine on that prop (and I have a pretty good "internal timer" that reminds me when it's time to bring her in), and everything stays nice and cool.
FWIW, I've never ran a set of batteries down to the stutter bump on an AQ ESC. I always suspected they go way too low for my comfort level.Comment
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Just got back from another run with a pair of zippy soft packs 5000mah 45c 2s, move the strut down 1 1/8 in from 3/4 in. and man was she flying. Set my timer at 3.5 min for a total run of 4 min. and the batteries showed 3.70v each and took 2211mah to re charge them, so I think 4 min. is going to be the max time for this set up.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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Yes your right, that 3.7v reading was taken from another pack just forgot to go back and change my typo. I've been testing a brass 40-52 and it runs real good on that prop I just lose top end speed but after 4 min everything comes off nice and cool. I also ran a brass L40-57 and I think its out of balance because the back end starts to wag like a dogs tail. The best prop so far have been the stock plastic ones [sv27] I though I read somewhere that they were a 40-57? I need more batteries, these 4 min runs suck!!Comment
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Try an x442.............a 2 blade will rev our better.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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