Phil Thomas SS21- Build

[nate]

Drive shaft is going in along with the Carbon fiber and strut as well today.

[nate]

Ok so here's the slow process of getting the brass tubing or
your drive shaft aligned and ready to fiberglass in.

In my pic's you can tell I had to put a drastic bend in the Shaft around 1/4" down
the brass tubing, This Hull is actually hard to work with because of the limited
space that you have, not so much a tight fit in width..but more so in height.

You kinnda have to keep everything low to the Floor of the hull, if not your cowl will
not fit correctly. It also looks tacky without a nice flat seal.

The motor mounts that the William's racing brackets are setting in are Birch wood cut, too just barly set low enough for the cowl to set on the hull flush...

After I had everything up I wanted to clean the surface with a harder grit sand paper before laying the Epoxy ect.

Then make sure the edges of the brass tubing are cut even, I just use the Dremel tool.

Also take time to clean the inside of the tubing, I used a small rounded wire brush from
my dremel kit, works just fine. If you have a major bend as mine and want to make sure
its still going to be a smooth fit without drag on your setup, run the same size bit down the tubing and it should bore out just enough for your flex cable to have a smooth spin.

Then right before everything is glued in align your motor to make sure everything is in spec.

[nate]

[nate]

[nate]

[nate]

Funny quick sketch

[nate]

More....

[Rumdog]

are you gonna use those deans connectors?

[crabstick]

lol i was going to ask that too

[nate]

Bad idea??

[crabstick]

If it were me I would run some bullet type connectors, have melted a lot of solder joins off deans connectors on a couple of mild BL setups.

at the moment im using 6mm ones

my pet hate is Y harness of deans plugs though so might be a bit biased!

[Rumdog]

Deans are only good to about 60 amps I believe. you'll prob melt em pretty easily w that setup. I'd go with at least 5.5mm bullets.

[bustitup]

what do you normaly use to seal this connection together (forward part of the strut to the stuffing tube)

I have this situation right now on my vegas....but my strut has a brass bullet on the end that "just" fits inside the tube but how would you secure that connection?

[Jeff Wohlt]

I use shrink wrap. And they have colors :)

If not then if it is not going to move you can simply put a little silicone or even CA around the joint just to keep the water out.

Are you running the brass in the nose or teflon? Looks like you came up a bit short. Most run the brass into the nose a good 1/4" or so or for that one maybe all the way thru and use the bushing in the brass stuffing tube. Looks like your teflon will have to go into the nose now.

[Flying Scotsman]

Nate, I have been watching this thread with interest and you are learning some of the pitfalls that can happen on a first time build. This is not meant as a rebuke, it is the process of understanding where I made a mistake and on the next build I will not do that again.
If, you have not applied the clear yet make sure you test for compability with the paint you applied.
Did you test for CG prior to mounting the hardware and proposed battery locations?
PS, I would take Fluid's and Jeff's advice to the bank and
it is a very nice looking boat.

Douggie