Bby unlimited light ul-1 kit

[AndyKunz]

30K RPM is a bit hot. 22K is far more reasonable.

Andy

[FE Wannabe]

Randy and Andy,

Now I see why you guys think that 6L motor on 2S will be too hot for heat racing.

Yesterday I was anxious to get the boat on the water, and I had a 10L that I took out of my Apache Cat and put it into the UL-1 and ran it on 3S = 27,283rpm on a Y536. I could not reach full throttle for more than a couple seconds without it wanting to blowing over. I was only running a single 3S pack in the middle of the hull over the stuffing tube, so the boat was very light; under 3 lbs. However, at partial throttle the boat was very stable and got up on sponson ride pads nicely.

Where should the COG be for this hull? Is it the traditional 1 1/2" to 2" behind the end of the sponsons or something else? Right now my COG is 2" behind the sponsons, even with my batteries up against the forward bulkhead.
Do you guys add weight to the bow to move the COG forward? My boat ready to run with 2ea 2S 5000mah packs weighs in a 3.6 lbs.

Thanks again for the help guys.
Brad

[AndyKunz]

FE - Which UL-1? The original one that Randy sells or the Aquacraft from Tower?

Andy

[FE Wannabe]

FE - Which UL-1? The original one that Randy sells or the Aquacraft from Tower?

Andy

Andy,

The UL-1 in question is the original BBY ABS UL-1. The one you designed and Randy produces.

Thanks,
Brad

[AndyKunz]

The manual shows the CG at 2" back, but with extra power you would do well to move it forward a bit. You probably need to take a look at your prop angle. Did you do the sponson mod to add a little angle of attack?

I would balance mine by running 3-way saddle packs. I had 1 4 cells in the cockpit and the other two 4-cell packs beside the motor under the deck.

Andy

[FE Wannabe]

The manual shows the CG at 2" back, but with extra power you would do well to move it forward a bit. You probably need to take a look at your prop angle. Did you do the sponson mod to add a little angle of attack?

I would balance mine by running 3-way saddle packs. I had 1 4 cells in the cockpit and the other two 4-cell packs beside the motor under the deck.

Andy

Andy,

I do have the ride pads installed on the bottom of the sponsons, which I assume is what you mean by the "sponson mod".
I have set the boat on a flat table, so that the hull is resting on the trailing edge of the sponson ride pads and on the prop strut. In this position the prop strut is laying totally flat against the table. The bottom of the prop strut is 5/8" below the lowest part of the side rail. Does that seem about right to you?

I will work on moving the COG further forward to see if I can get it closer to 1 1/2" behind the sponson's trailing edge, and see how that works.

Thanks again for sharing your expertise with this hull. It is saving me a lot of time trying to get it dialed in.

Brad

[AndyKunz]

The ride pads need to be tapered. At the step they should be blended in, at the transom they should be 1/8" thick.

You may need to angle the strut so as to lift the tail a little. This will help keep the nose down. Start by having about 1/32" difference. It sounds like your prop might be a little too deep. Measure from the bottom of the transom near the prop, not out on the rails.

Getting the correct balance between lift on the prop and lift from the sponsons/hull is what makes hydros so much fun.

Andy

[FE Wannabe]

The ride pads need to be tapered. At the step they should be blended in, at the transom they should be 1/8" thick.

You may need to angle the strut so as to lift the tail a little. This will help keep the nose down. Start by having about 1/32" difference. It sounds like your prop might be a little too deep. Measure from the bottom of the transom near the prop, not out on the rails.

Getting the correct balance between lift on the prop and lift from the sponsons/hull is what makes hydros so much fun.

Andy

Andy,

I will do the work on the ride pads and angle the strut as you suggested.
How far below the trailing edge of the transom do you normally run your propshaft?
I am figuring out that each setup will be different, with different power systems and weights, but I am just looking for a good starting point.

It was cool watching it run for the first time and seeing the hull lift of the water and run on the back edges of the sponsons and the prop. It was riding nice and level to the water and seemed very stable. It looks like this hull will race very well, even in rough water with traffic.
I will just need to fine tune it a little more. I agree it is fun!
Thanks again,
Brad

[AndyKunz]

I haven't run one in about 5 years, and no longer own one.

As I recall, I had a 3/8" gap between the bottom of the hull and the top of the strut.

Andy

[FE Wannabe]

I haven't run one in about 5 years, and no longer own one.

As I recall, I had a 3/8" gap between the bottom of the hull and the top of the strut.

Andy

Thanks for info!

Brad

[JBILLINGS]

ok you guys have been talking greek long enough , lets see some pics or video ! but really , your boat sounds pretty awsome ( howabout a pic or two ) you sure sound like you know how to make it go fast. im aiming more for fun , but i think i could get into some of that other stuff to ( just dont know what your talking most the time ). i havent been able to work on my boat , waiting for bats to get here and i still need to paint. will post more pics soon ( i hope ).

jimmy

[FE Wannabe]

Pics of My UL-1

Ok Jimmy here you go. These pictures are of when I first bought the boat, but it does not look much different yet. I have not painted it yet. I wanted to get the boat setup correctly first before I went and made it "pretty".

All I have done since then is smooth the seams a little bit and mount a servo, flex cable, motor, ESC and batteries since then. I have run it just the first time on Sunday so far. It looks like it will be a fun boat.

Brad

[FE Wannabe]

Pics of Miss Boat Electric

Jimmy,
Here is what I am hoping I can have the boat look like when I am done.
This is the Miss Boat Electric UL72 which I think is the same hull design as our UL-1's.

The 19 year old girl in the picture, Kayleigh Perkins, is the primary driver of the Miss Boat Electric and she won the 2007 National Championship as well as Rookie of the year in that boat.

Below is a link with more info:

http://www.boatelectric.com/

Brad

[AndyKunz]

CD was mailed last night. You'll see several pix of UL-72 in the original sponsorship. I used a Model Masters red paint for it, but I forget which number. Seems like "Guard Red" was the name. Larry Curts, the guy who made the hyper-detailed one (on the CD) found the actual color. If you're going to paint it red, let me try contacting him first (tell me).

Andy

[JBILLINGS]

( AndyKunz CD was mailed last night. )
alright cd , thanks andy . i think im going with something that theres no original to go by ( i need a blue and yellow to match a corona box ) not real fancy mind you this will also be my first paint job. cant wait to see pics !

( FE Wannabe Pics of My UL-1 )
sweet lookin hull if i do say so myself , i notice on yours and alot of boats i see that your motor is all the way up in the nose and your stuffing box is way up there to. what im saying is on my instructions its for the graupner setup and its way back , is that going to be good or bad , or doesnt matter ? and i see the ride pads in your photo and i get that now , do you really need those or would i be ok without (reminder , im not a racer) ?

sorry for all the newbie q&a , you said you looked in a manual andy , what manual would that be ? i have these pdfs (ul1-abu-manual"820kb" and ul1-manual"296kb") one shows how to put hull together , one shows finishing hull and installing graupner system and electronics. still waiting for bats , probably after memorial day ill test run her.

thanx again for listening
jimmy