Thanks for the advice Ray. Where do you mount your battery in that setup? Not sure if I'm gonna mount on the left side or in the center with motor mounted towards rear.
Delta force mini sniper 23 build for newbie
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Directly from Delta Force however they do not make or stock it anymore. I do have a rudder for my present build but I am using the TFL black 4mm stinger drilled out to 1/4" and made like speedmaster. It's maybe 50-55mm long. The trim tabs are small TFL the I took a Dremel to one side to make the sides angled to look like DF tab if you can understand that???
I used the smallest turn fins I could find and they seem thicker than the old ones pictured. Things change...
Kind wish I tried to mount a Speedmaster rudder on there... Oh well, if the one I have gets trashed I'll go Speedmaster like Tony did in his build.Nortavlag Bulc
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I got all the parts and have installed most of the hardware on the transom. Going to epoxy in the motor mount next, gotta see if I need to bend the stuffing tube. When I cut the flex cable should I solder it first or just tape it? I'll post more as I go.IMG_20210629_220814549.jpgComment
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Here's one I built for a customer a while ago. Cool little boat
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ht=mini+sniper2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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Yes I'm going to start with 3s batteries. Nice build on that mini sniper! I checked out your thread when I started, helped a lot. I have an issue, I installed the rudder a little too close to the strut and the prop might hit the rudder if I don't bring it out past the rudder a bit. Is this a problem?
Got the motor mount epoxied in.Comment
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Eric,
There's not a whole lot of real estate on that transom for hardware. When I do a build I'll mock up the strut & rudder with some double-side gooey tape and hang the biggest prop likely to be used to determine clearance before drilling. In your case, based on examining your picture you're a little tight but remember that these rigs don't call for much in the way of prop diameter. Since I'm pretty much (as many of my customers are) in the realm of oval racing, the only criteria for clearance is right turns. Most radios allow for independent R and L endpoint adjustment which you could set to keep the left turn rudder range of motion restricted somewhat in case the L rudder can hit. Then get used to R turns2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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Conventional Wisdom (eeek) states that the front of the rudder blade should be about where the drive dog lives. I wouldn't worry if you're a tad further back.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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So I hope going against conventional wisdom doesn't make my boat undrivable. The prop is going to have to be kinda far back behind rudder. Problem was I couldn't put the rudder any further to the right due to the trim tabs. Had to notch it as is. IMG_20210702_181850564.jpg
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I'd just make an extension for the rudder - easier and more sensible to do as I see it. If you just assemble as is (and restrict L rudder with radio endpoint adjustment) t won't make the boat undriveable.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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