Zippkits jae 21fe v2 outrigger_wood kit build

[racerr73]

Sam,
Another thing that may have hurt your hydra x8s esc is the 34.8v fully charged to 4.35v on 8s lipos as in post 211 on the data log.

Just read though the esc instructions and it states-
"Applying voltages higher than 33.6V will cause irreparable damage to ESC; DO NOT RUN HV CELLS (above 4.2v/cell) WHEN RUNNING AT MAX CELL COUNT (8s). This will exceed the 33.6v rating and will damage the ESC and not be covered by the warranty."

[sammyha]

Can anyone tell me if I set myself up for a catastrophic failure by doing this? The negative wire is longer than the positive wire between the cap pack and the ESC. I did this so it would fit in the boat next beside the ESC instead of on top. The cowling then cleared the cap pack.

I set the boat up conservative to see what this system would do without stressing the electronics. I propped down to 1817, charged the LiHV batteries to only 4.2 volts per cell instead of 4.35, set the LVC to 3.0 and set the boat up fairly loose.

Made two runs, both were cutting out like it was hitting LVC. Only did 81 mph. I then propped down to a 1719 prop and charged my batteries, so everything had time to cool down. Heading out for a third pass it felt like it wasn't responding to the throttle. Gave it full throttle, it felt like maybe quarter throttle, then heard a loud pop and saw a puff of smoke and it shut down. Had to rescue it.

Is this all on me, or possibly a bad ESC? It's a Castle 2240uf cap pack. Instructions say 3" wire length between cap pack and ESC. I know shorter the better. But my negative wire is about 2-1/4" long, the positive wire is 1" long.

This was a brand new replacement Castle Hydra X ESC. Very disappointing, thought I had a great setup. Any thoughts? Is this all my fault?

Btw, it's dead, cannot link to access Data Log...



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[Bande1]

i HIGHLY doubt the cap pack couldve had anything to do with it. even without a cap pack the ripple voltage isnt that bad especially with reduced prop. and I have a 56mm setup with an extra long black wire from the batt to the esc that I regularly hit 7000w without issue. I dont even run a cap pack.

[sammyha]

i HIGHLY doubt the cap pack couldve had anything to do with it. even without a cap pack the ripple voltage isnt that bad especially with reduced prop. and I have a 56mm setup with an extra long black wire from the batt to the esc that I regularly hit 7000w without issue. I dont even run a cap pack.

I will contact Castle. Possibly a bad esc?

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[Bande1]

I will contact Castle. Possibly a bad esc?

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I have to say bad ESC here. im certainly no expert but IMO castle needs to replace it.

pull last log you have and look at the ripple.

[LibertyMKiii]

+1 on a bad ESC
They have some bad batches at times it seems.
Castle support is pretty good. They seem to be best if you get them on the phone during normal business hours.

[leski379]

Big bummer Sam! I bet Castle will take care of you. Good luck brother!

[sammyha]

+1 on a bad ESC
They have some bad batches at times it seems.
Castle support is pretty good. They seem to be best if you get them on the phone during normal business hours.

Agree. I called them on the first one. They were great to deal with even with me admitting I abused their electronics. On this one it was failing on the first run...

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[sammyha]

Big bummer Sam! I bet Castle will take care of you. Good luck brother!

Thanks

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[RaceMechaniX]

I doubt it was the ESC, you are using 100A connectors on the battery side. That was the weak link.
Are you able to download the logging?

[sammyha]

I doubt it was the ESC, you are using 100A connectors on the battery side. That was the weak link.
Are you able to download the logging?

Could not access data log.

I previously ran 122 mph with these connectors. They were not hot, by memory around 88-90 degrees.

On this esc, it only got to 81mph on the first run. Something was amiss right away...

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[RaceMechaniX]

My observations after skimming quickly through this whole thread.

1. The very high voltage sag and high ripple current directly point to the poor battery connection or batteries with poor IR.
2. If you are not warming the batteries you need to for this high current rating.
3. You are running upwards of 300-350A where the X8S is starting to clip power. you can confirm this in the data by looking at the motor output power versus input throttle.
4. The SVM motors typically have a metallic sleeve and larger airgap. This reduces the precision of the BEMF rotor position calculation which taxes the ESC. Recommended to not use any of the SVM motors. The standard configurations are fine.


As a reference here is the data from my S-Hydro running 148mph. This was maxing out the XLX2 at 523A, note that the ripple is only 0.96V at 523A. Voltage sag is down to 2.9V per cell.

148mph S-Hydro pass RRR.bmp

[sammyha]

My observations after skimming quickly through this whole thread.

1. The very high voltage sag and high ripple current directly point to the poor battery connection or batteries with poor IR.
2. If you are not warming the batteries you need to for this high current rating.
3. You are running upwards of 300-350A where the X8S is starting to clip power. you can confirm this in the data by looking at the motor output power versus input throttle.
4. The SVM motors typically have a metallic sleeve and larger airgap. This reduces the precision of the BEMF rotor position calculation which taxes the ESC. Recommended to not use any of the SVM motors. The standard configurations are fine.


As a reference here is the data from my S-Hydro running 148mph. This was maxing out the XLX2 at 523A, note that the ripple is only 0.96V at 523A. Voltage sag is down to 2.9V per cell.

[ATTACH]178049[/ATTACH]

As I'm always open to learning, I stand corrected then about the connectors. By your very impressive results it sounds like you know what you're talking about. I really want to run fast without destroying expensive electronics. What connectors do you recommend?

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[sammyha]

I do have a TP Power 4050 5D 2310kv motor. That be a better match with the Hydra X?

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[Xrayted]

I agree on changing out your connectors. EC5s are nowhere near adequate for the currents FE boats pull. You need to be using QS8 connectors. They do make larger, but they start to get really huge and heavy, so 8mm works well for our applications since the wire diameter itself starts to become the bottleneck, and going even bigger on the connector may not matter that much. EC5s are only 5mm bullets, so the QS8s have significantly more contact surface area and less resistance. https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php...product_id=578