Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

[Ryanj]

I try not to remove that cross support on any of my Pearls. We pull about 3G in the turns at 60 mph. A large percentage of that weight hangs from the turn fin. The fin is attached to the bulkhead with that cross support. I try to keep it if I can make it work.

With no doubt with the upper brace and the added support to the fin to the boat. Just a few ways and preferences to building the boat to desired plan. I removed the upper brace where the batteries lay and sanded a few MM off the bottom brace for the battery's to lay flatter to the floor. lower the battery CG and more forward adjustments. So far since july of last year Club racing the boat handles and runs like a top. 62-65mph the boat will run depending my set up as well. What you mentioned is some good food for thought

[ray schrauwen]

Lots of great info, thanks guys!

I was planning to take a carbon fiber tub ans slice it length wise in half and use it as a front nose block. They come in numerous sizes like 22mm ID etc... Usually only 1mm - 1.5mm thick.

[ray schrauwen]

How thick of ply should I use for the front reinforcement? 1/16" ??

If G-10 then what thickness? I can get .5mm and 1.5mm

[T.S.Davis]

I cut my G10 tube on the band saw which is NOT the best way but hey....use what ya got. Then I drop the piece on my belt sander to get it close to straight.

1/16" ply is plenty Ray. I used 1/32 G10 up there but only because I had it already laying around.

The LSH boats are a bit lighter and take less of a beating when they take flight. The P boats I build like a brick poop house. The extra weight and speed makes landing even on the water.......hateful. Better to just not take flight obviously but sometimes you catch that freak breeze, climb a rooster tail, whatever. Then you don't breath until it lands. Unless Tyler is driving. Then I hold my breath at every pin. He's never more than a sponson away from them.

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you.. O.k. I'll just use some ply. Do you use a size of G10 tube so that there is a bit of overhang (my thinking to lock in both the top and bottom sheet) or jut size it so it's a smooth transition?

I don't want to mess with it's aerodynamics unless it's a benefit. The overhang would only be 1mm

[T.S.Davis]

Well.......I don't have that down to science yet Ray. The one I just did was a little undersized for the LSH so I'll need to fill a bit. I "think" the tube I have is right for the P boat but haven't checked it yet. I would think a tic oversized would be better in truth. Line up the top side and sand back to flush on the bottom side. I don't "think" it's an aero thing but have no data to back that up.

[T.S.Davis]

By the way. Ty's last P sport that was pulling mid 10 second laps had a G10 belly pan. Held up for a number of years but eventually all that bouncing and flex at the battery tray broke the bond between the frames and the G10. It's mechanical bond verses a matrix across the joint with wood. You gain strength from the G10 but only as long as the bonds hold. Opened up like a tuna can once it broke. Not suggesting any shy from G10. Just realize it may not hold forever. Almost like a "choose your poison" sort of thing. Better in spots in my experience.

None of what we're doing with these is necessarily right or necessarily wrong and certainly not bullet proof. They're race boats. If we're not out at the edge are we really having fun? haha

Every boat is an experiment. Build it, break it, race it, or don't, even discover your big idea sucked.........then tweak it, shave it, add to it, subtract from it......or heck.......build another. It's just wood. We learn from every stick. Weird way to think about it but sometimes I feel my boat graveyard is proof I've enjoyed my journey.

[RandyatBBY]

Back to the 31 inch P LTD Sport now that I have the cowl mold done. first one out mold, more pictures to come as I finish.
IMG-3540.jpg
I got a turn fin from Bob at Mojo racing for it too. I hear Terry had a little to do with design.

[ray schrauwen]

I get it now Terry. I'll just build it. Wood is easier to cut than G10 also...

[ray schrauwen]

I wonder why one part was not laser cut? No rear hatch... There is extra wood but I sorta used a bunch for front battery tray reinforcement. I might make a plastic one or if I have spare CF I could use that.

[T.S.Davis]

Here are two of the 4 boats I have going right now. A V10.8 P sized built ultra light and a V12 LSH version

Two Pearls.jpg

[RandyatBBY]

Up date on boat paint time and graphics.
IMG-3565.jpgIMG-3563.jpgIMG-3551.jpgIMG-3552.jpgIMG-3550.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

I'm sorta regretting building a full P Pearl but I'll make it work. I thought before I ordered them that it was just one hull size used in both classes.

Whoops...

Nice build Randy.

[RandyatBBY]

I'm sorta regretting building a full P Pearl but I'll make it work. I thought before I ordered them that it was just one hull size used in both classes.

Whoops...

Nice build Randy.

Thanks Ray, wish you could see the Metalflake it is so pertty. I am going to hve the boat in the water Sunday. About 4 or 5 coats of clear to put on the bottom and back together it goes.

[T.S.Davis]

I'm sorta regretting building a full P Pearl but I'll make it work. I thought before I ordered them that it was just one hull size used in both classes.

Whoops...

Nice build Randy.

Ray, don't hesitate to run the full P in LSH. I know guys that have raced it that way that actually prefer the extra stability. I built one of the early on out of 1/32" ply and no spruce sticks anywhere. Skipped em'. It was a paper light toy. Silly now but then weight was a bigger deal. Used to call it "Mini Pearl" like the lady that wore the hats with tags cuz she was just a little flighty.