The Black Pearl LSH Spec Hydro 2019

[TRUCKPULL]

Pete
The cowl at the front is flat across, and sticks out 3 1/2" from the base of the windshield, Even with the built in curvature it is still very flexible and can be taped down, With very slight pressure the front edge can be lowered up to about 3/4".

Can you measure the gap height at the front with a "P" cowl on the LSH Hull, two see the difference.

I think it will still work, the large flat areas on this cowl are fairly flexible.

Larry

[Shooter]

Larry,

The hatch on the LSH boat is 112mm wide.

The gap height is only about 5mm, so if your cowl is flexible it shouldn't have any problems fitting. Turns out that the LSH nose doesn't curve down aggressively until the portion in front of the hatch edge.

[TRUCKPULL]

Hello Pete

112mm wide is fine. The bubble width on this cowl at the widest point where it returns to the flat on each side is 95mm.

I also did a test on this material.

It can be adjusted very easily. I used a hobby heat gun, (Low Heat) With the front of the cowl (1" over the edge of my bench)

Slight heat - Press the front down a little bit - let cool - Done.

Here is a picture of a 1" wide flat strip that I did, to see how much I could move it, I think I could have made a circle out of it.

Larry

[Shooter]

Nice Larry! Yes, I think it will work!

I made a little more progress on the spec boat. Sanded the side face in prep for skin. I still pre-bend the skins with a heat gun prior to gluing. Reduces internal stresses and helps keep the boat straight IMO, but who knows!

[Shooter]

I originally planned for this interface frame to be sanded at an angle to sit flush with the main frame pcs. Since I'm using epoxy for the entire build I didn't bother sanding it to shape. Put this on the list of things NOT to do! Unfortunately, now it sits too proud. It will have to be sanded down a significant amount so the recovery pads are flat and do not have anhedral.

[Shooter]

I glued the sponson side skin. Also, used a curved lexan body scissors to trim the excess skin after the epoxy cured. Who'd a thunk it?? Sure beats sanding, and breathing dust. The less dust I breath, the more cigars I will be able to smoke!

[T.S.Davis]

Not sure if you have one of these Pete. Time saver for sure.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-in...-Plane/4062649

[Shooter]

That is a really cool little planer! Definitely worth $10!

[T.S.Davis]

Easier than the Lexan scissors too.

I used to just drop onto the belt sander to cleave off lots a material. Potential for disaster was high. Potential reached multiple times.

[bikepilot]

Lookin great Pete! That's a first for the heat gun trick on the skins for me, do you dampin the skins first before applying the heat??
thanks brian

[Shooter]

Thanks Brian. No, I didn't dampen them, but I'm sure that would work even better.

[Shooter]

I decided to rip the sponson apart and start over. That interface piece was just too proud of the surface. Here is the difference between the old and new cut part (about 4mm at the crest of the curve).

[Shooter]

I sanded the angle on the new parts and glued them in.

[Shooter]

Sanded the side face again and glued the new sponson side. Take 2!!

[Shooter]

A little more work. Sanded the frame down and glued on the ride pad.