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"Look good doin' it"
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DAY 2:
I concentrated on getting the stuffing tubes, flex shafts and checking motor placement. This begins with that first cut in the boat to pass the stuffing tube through. For this, I rely on the CAD drawing heavily. It told me I needed to be 8.8" from the back of the boat, on the marked centerline, to put the hole in the center of the cutout. I then use a Dremel with a routing bit to complete the hole. I don't thin out the edges, like when you lay the drill over on it's side to whallor it out. I used to do that, but it can create stress fractures in the thin fiberglass at the ends of the cut out. So now I just use the router, keeping it square and overshoot the hole slightly to get a good epoxy fill in there.Last edited by CraigP; 03-14-2018, 10:45 PM.Comment
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After getting my feet wet on the first cut, I bent the 1/4" copper tubing using a tube bender along 1/2" points on the 18" radius. I also had a printout from the CAD drawing showing a side profile of the required finish bend, so it made it pretty easy, just matching to the picture. The print out is a precise 1:1 scale...Comment
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With the trail blazed on the port side, just need to duplicate the starboard side. Sometimes easier said than done, but I was on a roll today and managed it pretty good! I'm enjoying this build very much, just taking it all in... I have the epoxy in on the top side and will set the epoxy tomorrow morning on the bottom. I think it's just about halfway thru the build now, excluding paint...Comment
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You are having a good go at this Craig. It’s looking good. Hey saw somewhere that those flat bottom struts had been radiused on the one side to prevent digging/tripping. Just mentioning as a thought.Comment
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.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
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Ive always used the rounded bottom struts in the past, but I read from time to time how some people say the flat bottom can help hold the transom up, especially in turns. I thought I would buy flats, try it, and if they don’t work, then I’ll radius the bottoms. I was also going to try radius on the starboard side, leave flat on port side. My thinking was to create better hold up on the port or outside strut while turning right... But you gotta have the flat to start to try it out... It’s funny, because they look like two water skis in some of those picks!Comment
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looking pretty slick manThere's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...Comment
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I’m a bit hung up waiting on some misc. stuff coming in. I was going to run this boat on the stock ride pads, but looking at it again, I talked myself into reducing the very large AoA on the sponsons. The last time I did this, I made much more work out of it than it should have been. I made laminated frames, 4 on each side, that I then screwed to aluminum down onto. Those frames were very difficult to final finish to size... So this time, I found some 1/8” basswood planks. I’m just glueing those down onto the sponson and I will just set them by sanding them down with my power wall sander. I’m going to put two on each side, bring it up by 1/4”. To get to my target numbers, I’ll have to leave the quarter inch on the section by the nose, and taper sand down to almost nothing on the ends of the sponsons. There is also 6 degrees of slope on these surfaces. I prefer squared up surfaces such that when placed on the granite, the complete back of the sponsons are resting on the surface. So I won’t be adding to the depth of the sponsons like I did on the first Vortex. I don’t think I needed to make that much work. Still, there is a lot of work re-configuring ride pads, but oh, so worth it out on the water. Note: the first Vortex has never flipped or rolled in the corners. I’m hoping for a similar outcome on this dual.Comment
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Is that thumb screws threaded thru the hull to hold the wood down? Good plan!!
I remember doing a ride pad mod to a Dumas rigger way back before I messed with good quality epoxy. What a wipeout when the glue let go at speed. LOLComment
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TURN FIN
I found on my last boat that the single angle turn fin used on the bigger 1/8 scale boats worked better than the curved fin. The curved fin tacked the sponson down too tight. I' not a fan of using the rudder, strut and turn fin to adjust ride characteristics. I'll do it if all else fails, but I think those adjustments come with penalties and are a compensation to a problem elsewhere. I do like to adjust the fin up and down for different degrees of water roughness. I also think the included angle is nice to be able to dial in. So I took a stock 1/8 scale turn fin assembly and started to modify it. First, I put a curved adjustment slot into the upper mounting hole of the bracket. This allows me the opportunity to set the angle, I have pics on that. Next, I drilled a sequence of holes that allow me to move the fin up an down by 0.20" on each hole position. Generally it is set right in the middle. I drop it a set of holes in real rough water and raise it when running in smooth water. There's a pic showing the stock fin assembly with a black line on it. That's what I'm going to cut off to scale it to my model size...Comment
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So I got the turn fin cut down using a cutoff wheel in the Dremel, takes some patience! I have some pics showing the turn fin assembly on the boat. I still need to grind the leading edge face up higher, the transition is too low for my boat. I also show the adjustment range of the turn fin's included angle. I've found that my smaller boat doesn't need as much lean as the 1/8" Scale. If you look at the pic of the Min Angle closely, you can just make out the line scribe in the fiberglass put in at the factory on where to set the fin. I'm a bit outside of that, because I'm deepening the sponsons slightly.. Overall, this is going much easier than the first build, image that!Comment
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All the wood prep is complete for the ride pad modifications. I have 0.031” aluminum plate coming to put the final covers on. The port side sponson now has a ride pad AoA of 2.25 degrees and the starboard side is set it 2.75 degrees. The front shingle is a bit deeper on the port, due to the angle difference. This was so much easier than what I did the first time! You just can’t beat a bit of experience! Looking forward to getting the metal on...Comment
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