HPR C5009 Bulletproof Mystic

[fweasel]

Also picked up a keyboard stand to make working on the boat a little easier at the water.

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[vvviivvv]

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Any chance you can share how you get the silicone up into the tips?

[fweasel]

Any chance you can share how you get the silicone up into the tips?

That part was challenging, this hull more so than most. I started with a fresh tube of silicone, rolled the bottom up, the grabbed the entire thing with a long set of needle nose pliers to 1) get the applicator tip up where it needed to go and 2) squeeze the tube while it was way up under the deck. The key is to mask off both the battery trays and hull walls first so you can be a little sloppy on the application side of the equation, then go back with a wet finger (I keep a small cup of water on the bench while doing this) and draw back on the entire length of the bead to smooth it out and wipe away all of the excess. Once all that's done, you pull the tape and you get nice, clean lines.

[vvviivvv]

Thanks for the tip, I tacked it in tonight with what I can reach... been looking at getting a long syringe etc but will try this method...
I always use soap when smoothing with the finger tho... tip I picked up at work. (regular hand wash soap)

[fweasel]

Okay, water jackets back from the machine shop and just wrapped them in carbon. Waiting for the epoxy to dry. Now I'm going to get a tweezers and pick out the splinters from my hand.

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My receiver Life battery and power switch were delivered this week. I water proofed the switch as well as the ESC wire extension and Y harness. I need to start filling voids with foam and then find mounting positions for the electronics under the rear deck.

[danthem]

So much effort on this build,a real piece of art!
Congrats

[Speedfreek]

Okay, water jackets back from the machine shop and just wrapped them in carbon. Waiting for the epoxy to dry. Now I'm going to get a tweezers and pick out the splinters from my hand.

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My receiver Life battery and power switch were delivered this week. I water proofed the switch as well as the ESC wire extension and Y harness. I need to start filling voids with foam and then find mounting positions for the electronics under the rear deck.

Looks awesome

[fweasel]

So much effort on this build,a real piece of art!
Congrats

Thanks. Lots of effort for sure, it's the results that I hope get a passing grade when it's done.

The water jackets are done!

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[danthem]

Already passed,these kind of hulls deserve some extra care...made for eternity.

[fweasel]

Almost there! Decided to change out the 4060 motors for 4050's. Had to use different O-rings to make the water jackets fit. The rear support ring also was no longer in the right position for the shorter motor can so I made a pair of shims from 2mm carbon plate to insert between the motors and the motor mounts. The shims allowed me to get a third mounting bolt installed. Originally, an alternate bolt patter on the motor mount had a hole too close to the 12 o'clock position to be able to re-drill it. Shifting the new motors back 2mm allowed me just enough room to capture the rear end bells in the support rings. I also decided the MBP collets were too close to the motor mounts, even after turning them down on a lathe, and swapped them out for an set of H&M collets. Got the OSE 8mm anti-spark connectors soldered onto the ESC's, but still need to get them installed on all of the new batteries. Just about ready to put power to the ESC's finally and program them. So close.

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[fweasel]

She floats! Last pass of the day. Did about 10 in total using two sets of packs.

[fweasel]

Had a marathon solder session yesterday and put the OSE 8mm antispark connectors on all my 6S packs. Was up till about 1AM sorting out an ESC setup issue. I've never used these Fliers before and couldn't get them to boot up properly. Turns out, it was the anti-spark connector. I did not engage them fully and there wasn't enough voltage for the ESC to boot up fully. The voltage form the anti-spark circuit was enough to run the programmer, so it fooled me, and I never thought that the partial connection was giving me troubles.

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Boat ran great for its first time out. I'm happy with the setup, pretty well aired out and stable, on a mild set of props. Still have a few leaks to sort out, but minor. Will try out some different props in two weeks when I get back in town.

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[fweasel]

Bolting on the jewelry for run #2. Big show is next weekend and there's not a lot of time left for testing.

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[srislash]

B

Bolting on the jewelry for run #2. Big show is next weekend and there's not a lot of time left for testing.

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damn good looking prop there

[WheelMan]

Awesome build! Such a beautiful boat, I'm envious!

Had a marathon solder session yesterday and put the OSE 8mm antispark connectors on all my 6S packs. Was up till about 1AM sorting out an ESC setup issue. I've never used these Fliers before and couldn't get them to boot up properly. Turns out, it was the anti-spark connector. I did not engage them fully and there wasn't enough voltage for the ESC to boot up fully. The voltage form the anti-spark circuit was enough to run the programmer, so it fooled me, and I never thought that the partial connection was giving me troubles.

I recently experienced this exact issue and it had me fooled for a bit as well. I was setting up a 1/5 scale 4wd vehicle, and did not have one of the connectors engaged 100% so it was only making connection through the initial part of the connector. It was enough for me to set the parameters of the esc, but when I tried to test the throttle I popped the resistor inside the connector, burned it right off. Couldn't understand why from that point nothing would work. But I did not realize it right away what had happened. Took for me to unplug everything and when I plugged the packs back in, the connector I popped the resistor on cracked a high voltage spark upon connection. Then I realized what had happed, as that connector was not functioning as an anti-spark connector anymore, haha. So anyone using these connectors, something to pay attention to.