Awesome build! Such a beautiful boat, I'm envious!
I recently experienced this exact issue and it had me fooled for a bit as well. I was setting up a 1/5 scale 4wd vehicle, and did not have one of the connectors engaged 100% so it was only making connection through the initial part of the connector. It was enough for me to set the parameters of the esc, but when I tried to test the throttle I popped the resistor inside the connector, burned it right off. Couldn't understand why from that point nothing would work. But I did not realize it right away what had happened. Took for me to unplug everything and when I plugged the packs back in, the connector I popped the resistor on cracked a high voltage spark upon connection. Then I realized what had happed, as that connector was not functioning as an anti-spark connector anymore, haha. So anyone using these connectors, something to pay attention to.
Thanks. Interesting data about burning out the anti-spark resistor. I hadn't even though of that possibility as a side effect. Luckily, I have heard no snaps when connection any of my packs, so they all seem to have pulled through my screw-up, which is nice.
Originally posted by EddieM41
Awesome build! Are these hulls still available somewhere?
Thanks,Eddie
Thanks! HPR is still building hulls, with the exception of one or two, but the company was recently sold and they are no longer made by Hans Peter Rotshi. The original Hans Peter hulls were known for their build quality. I cannot personally speak for the new hulls as I've never seen one up close.
Water conditions were pretty good today. I was able to run two sets of packs through the boat today on 1716 props. I ran 1715's last weekend on the maiden. I made about 5 passes on each set of packs and everything looked and sounded great. Wish I had some GPS data, but based on the runs I made with my Genesis, the HPR looked north of 100mph.
Thanks. Interesting data about burning out the anti-spark resistor. I hadn't even though of that possibility as a side effect. Luckily, I have heard no snaps when connection any of my packs, so they all seem to have pulled through my screw-up, which is nice.
Thanks! HPR is still building hulls, with the exception of one or two, but the company was recently sold and they are no longer made by Hans Peter Rotshi. The original Hans Peter hulls were known for their build quality. I cannot personally speak for the new hulls as I've never seen one up close.
What prompted this change? Beautiful work as always Ryan. Wish I could have made LOTO.
Thank you sir. Bummed you won't be making the trip this year. The 4060s were too close to their safe voltage limit. Kent from CCFP convinced me 4050s were a better match.
Thanks to Jeremy Anderson at Big Thunder Marine for taking my HPR canopy down to the American Ethanol dock at the LOTO Shootout today. Got it signed by Mystic founder and throttleman John Cosker, the team owner Don Onken, and driver Tony Battiato. Guess I need to clear coat the underside to keep the grease off! Wish I could have taken it down there in person, but couldn't switch the 10-day vacation again this year.
Forgot to update this thread after the shootout...
Boat ran great during the shakedown runs in Chicago. I didn't change anything before I packed it up and headed for the Ozarks. My first pass Saturday morning was incredibly slow and I brought it back to the dock to check if both props were spinning. That's when one motor took off in reverse at full noise, and tried to drag the hull under water in a weird reverse death spin. We finally got it shut down and back to the pits. Turns out one of the ESC's lost its programming and was the likely culprit for the reverse mishap. I reprogrammed it, (eliminating reverse like I had done originally) and thought we were back in business. I made a donation to the Top Gun charity so that I could do a few test passes at the end of the day. This time the boat ran a little quicker, was more predictable, but still off the pace from previous test passes.
After 5 passes, it started pulling to one side, so I shut it down and brought it back in. Popped the hatch and the magic smoke had been released. The morning's reverse dilemma put a wobble in the right flex cable. It was my mistake for not pulling the cables between runs to inspect them. I blame the heat and surrounding eye candy. During the second run later in the day, that cable knotted up the teflon liner, and over heated the motor. The stuffing tube got so hot and the resistance was so high that it released from the epoxy and spun in the hull. The high amp draw took out the right ESC. I'm guessing the drag from the slower running right prop over amped the left ESC and popped all the caps on that side. The shootout was over for this little HPR. Time to shine it up and just look pretty the rest of the weekend. It was awesome to get so much positive feedback from the crowd on the build and paint job, but in all honesty, you could paint a turd with the American Ethanol livery and it would still be sexy.
Fast forward to this past weekend. I hadn't touched the boat since I brought it home and put it back in the rack. The new motors came in this week so it seemed like a good time to start in with the winter retrofit project and ripped out the stuffing tubes. That was fun. They were installed by the previous owner and sized for 1/4" flex cables. I run 3/16" cables and had sleeved the ends to fit a smaller Teflon liner. The lack of support in the middle of the cable is probably why my flex cable wobble issue turned so catastrophic at the shootout. Rather than continue to band aid fix the setup, I'm just going to do it the right way and replace it all.
The old tubes are out as well as the supports. As soon as my 8mm collets arrive, I'll mock up the motors and bend a new set of smaller diameter brass stuffing tubes. The old ones were wrapped in carbon fiber which I liked the look of, but the new ones are going to be much narrower and I don't think I can pull that trick off. I might try using some rigid carbon tube and slice it like a loaf of bread on the underside so that it can match the contour of the brass. I've seen carpenters do that with 2x4's when framing curved walls. I also need to pull the steering hardware off the back to chase down a water leak I didn't have time to fix this summer.
Thanks, wasn't aware they made it so small. I might use a straight section of rigid tube and keep the new stuffing tubes straight. The flex cables will bend at the transition between the drives and hull.
Finally got around to modifying the bolt pattern on the existing mounts as well as finessing the rear mounts to fit the new LMT motors in place. Now that those are positioned, I can bend the new stuffing tubes. I ordered metric sized brass stuffing tube and a thick wall teflon liner to fit. Had to drill out the MBP drive mounts so that the tubes can be slid in from the back.
My HPR is being finished by Manuel over in Germany right now... which Lehner's are they? I've got 2250/7 with a set of 7&8s packs... props right now are x447, x457 cut to 52mm and abc 2016... all prepped by andy brown.
ABC will be my saw / special occasion prop....
Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
Uk SAW record holder
These are 2250's. I'm only allowed to run 6S voltage in the class this boat runs in at the shootout, so everything is sized accordingly for that limit. Last year I started with ABC1715 props and it was running really well, until it wasn't , but didn't have the opportunity to start propping up.
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