HPR 010 Mono: Very Slow Build

[boredom.is.me]

I took some time to finish the latch install. Man they have some weight to them. Each one weighs 51.44g. I replaced the screws that hold down the mounting bracket (c piece). I will replace as much as I can with stainless. I'll also try replacing the mounting bracket with some aluminum channel. I might also make some rings out of carbon to help distribute the clapping load on the hatch itself.

Still debating exactly how I want to secure the front of the hatch.

Really old news, but I replaced the 2mm white depron gaskets with 3mm grey. It looks so much better. It's the minor details that make the whole.

My red anodized countersunk washers came in today too. I got sixteen each of m3 and m4 which should be more than enough. I do need to make an "anodized" plate to go under my "bimRC" logo on the battery sled.

[srislash]

FYI, I use glazing putty for blemishes and such. It dries quick so you can motor through the sanding process.

As far as the front of the hatch may I suggest pins? You can drill though the front lip of the hatch and secure them on the under side. Then just drill matching holes in the hull at the front of the hatch opening for the pins to slide in. I have used steel rod and brass tube with good results.

[boredom.is.me]

I used a single sided black copper clad 1/32" sheet. I peeled away all excess copper, leaving only the two main traces. If I had to do this again, I would definitely make a jig to hold all four connectors straight. I managed to do it by hand, but it took a while. The solder joints would have been cleaner as well. The caps might get here tomorrow.

[boredom.is.me]

FYI, I use glazing putty for blemishes and such. It dries quick so you can motor through the sanding process.

As far as the front of the hatch may I suggest pins? You can drill though the front lip of the hatch and secure them on the under side. Then just drill matching holes in the hull at the front of the hatch opening for the pins to slide in. I have used steel rod and brass tube with good results.

I missed your post. Thanks for the suggestions. I did consider the pin method as well as the tab. The pins would be easier to install, but the tab may provide an easier join to the seal.

[Espresso]

What's this V-shaped bracket made of? Black fiberglass?

[boredom.is.me]

1/32" black FR-4 base with 2oz copper on one side

I also have double sided 1oz 1/32". I machined it myself.

[boredom.is.me]

The cap bank is functionally complete. Once I can confirm that it works properly, I'll seal ithe back with epoxy. I may even make an acrylic cover for the back. I followed esc polarity, meaning the make bullet is connected to the cap's positive. I'll just put some shrink around it for now. That may be all it needs to 'look' good.

I gave the lights some thought today. I'll use 5mm straw hat LED's and will place them 12"-16" from the nose along the seam. The white will be 3"-4" from the transom. 26awg wire will be used as hook up wire. I'll have a radio controlled switch and a voltage regulator in line. This is completely unnecessary, but is something I really want to do. Everything is compact and I doubt the entire setup will weigh more than 15g.

[iridebikes247]

Looking good, everything is so well planned out.

[boredom.is.me]

Thank you again.

One thing I thought of as I was making the cap bank was to have one or two connected to the receiver itself. I did that on my 51" Slick since I lived on an airport. I never had any brownouts or signal issues. I'm not saying it was all because of the cap, but I know for a fact pulling 40 degree surface deflection at speed was definitely spiking the current through the receiver. The cap would have definitely been doing something. I still have three caps left so I may put two or all three on it, just because I can. :) And I can put it online with the light setup if I ever needed a fourth channel...which race boats don't need.


Anyone know where I might find these antenna bases? You can get them in blue from the Bay and Hobbyking, but clear anodized or raw would be way better. I found them at MTL for 13€ (with VAT) for three. Then add shipping. If I can't find a U.S. supplier, I'll just suck it up, but I'm not putting those generic hex base antenna mounts on my boat.

[Tamelesstgr]

Been awhile since I checked for updates, kudos on the cap bank design, that's really neat. Is it possible to put the rubber boots on the linkages inside the hull? I mounted mine that way, just looks a little cleaner in my opinion, but certainly up to you.

[boredom.is.me]

I tried to place them inside, but I can't get the boots over the tubing once inside. I would need a 4" or greater length to even come close to be able to mount the boot. It's just way too tight even for my skinny fingers. Unless I went with smaller tubing which would make the connection weaker. At least, that's what I would think.

[Turbo Dan-O]

Awesome work on this thing! Please keep the pics coming!

[boredom.is.me]

Thanks, much appreciated. I definitely will keep them flowing!

I received the component LED's and have mentally put together how I will set it up. Instead of running individual current drivers or using a resistor on each LED, I'll just feed them with 3.3v and directly wire them. The only LED with a resistor would be the red. I drilled four holes into the hull for them, but I don't think that would make much of a picture.

I managed to find the font that HPR uses. Then I found another that doesn't quite make the HPR look good, but I like the Sentinel.

[boredom.is.me]

As much as I hate how big, bulky, and heavy the T180 is, it's probably my only logical choice. The Raider/Flycolor 150 is perfect as far as fitment is concerned, but it may be on the small side. I've been keeping an eye on the "service" from Hifie in the respective forum. The Swordies are definitely off of the list.

On a side note, the remaining parts for the lighting system are on the way. The ETA is next Wednesday which is actually very late considering it was shipped on the 8th.

[srislash]

Lighting? I like it!!