Genesis build

[TheShaddix]

A bit of progress, not much but just wanted to update the thread while I'm waiting on the stinger shims and resin.

The hatch locking bolts and bracket are done. Nevermind the hideous original hatch line, apparently they revised the hull since this iteration to square off the hatch corners... Mine barely fits... Also installed the water outlets and going to mount the rudder and use the pull cable system with a micro hitec servo.

[kfxguy]

You not done yet? Lol!

[TheShaddix]

I have no rush or deadlines. I have a few other boats I'm working on at the same time too.

[SD Eracer]

TheShaddix is also a perfectionist with an eye for detail, which is why I can see he wasn't too happy with the fit of that hatch. Mine isn't perfect either, never noticed it really until I saw this thread.

Also be warned, I was using rather mild adhesive black electrical tape and the clear started to peel on a small patch on my hatch. Maybe a good idea after you are done to completely recoat the boat in some harder higher quality clearcoat.

[kfxguy]

TheShaddix is also a perfectionist with an eye for detail, which is why I can see he wasn't too happy with the fit of that hatch. Mine isn't perfect either, never noticed it really until I saw this thread.

Also be warned, I was using rather mild adhesive black electrical tape and the clear started to peel on a small patch on my hatch. Maybe a good idea after you are done to completely recoat the boat in some harder higher quality clearcoat.

You guys are still using tape? how archaic. Lol

your much better set up with your rounded corners.



And I use these awesome thumb screws, stainless steel. I buy 1" long and 3/4" long...if I need shorter I cut to length.

[TheShaddix]

Not a fan of bolts sticking out of the hatch, i think it kills the scale look, much like a giant antenna does, but to each their own. Maybe that was ok when I had my blackjack with a similar bolt down the middle, but I like these boats to look somewhat scale, so those countersink ones work great. Also, with those bolts you can't tape over them. And you do want to use tape, even with your foam... Water can and will sip in, if not through the bolts, then somewhere where the foam is not as secure. If yours is dry after you run, then it's ok in fresh water. But we run ours in salt, so not taping up is not an option. I would not want the water to sit inside of the hatch line as the foam will absorb it and dry white and lose its softness. And if you think about it, all the people whom you see running nice boats all use tape and countersink bolts. Nothing archaic about it, it's a proven thing, keeps the boat looking smooth and aesthetically pleasing, plus tape is dirt cheap. If you had an mhz or an hpr, would you really use those big bolts too? If the answer is yes, then clearly we aren't on the same page and that's ok.

And I prefer the hatch with square corners like your daytona as it fits so much better. Mine I can barely slide into place it's so tight. This is how the new, revised genesis looks (http://www.spassfahrer.de/galerie/im...1301417187.jpg)

[SD Eracer]

I would love not to use tape, but my worry is if you use a rubber seal, that water gets trapped between the hull and the hatch no matter what. After you remove the hatch, that water will still fall down into the inside of the hull.

Here in San Diego, we pretty much have to run in 100% saltwater, few lakes around here unfortunately.

[Fella1340]

That hitec servo looks rather small. What are the torque numbers on that servo? Most people use a standard size low profile servo. I'm using the savox sc-1251mg, it's a good fit for the genesis.

[kfxguy]

Not a fan of bolts sticking out of the hatch, i think it kills the scale look, much like a giant antenna does, but to each their own. Maybe that was ok when I had my blackjack with a similar bolt down the middle, but I like these boats to look somewhat scale, so those countersink ones work great. Also, with those bolts you can't tape over them. And you do want to use tape, even with your foam... Water can and will sip in, if not through the bolts, then somewhere where the foam is not as secure. If yours is dry after you run, then it's ok in fresh water. But we run ours in salt, so not taping up is not an option. I would not want the water to sit inside of the hatch line as the foam will absorb it and dry white and lose its softness. And if you think about it, all the people whom you see running nice boats all use tape and countersink bolts. Nothing archaic about it, it's a proven thing, keeps the boat looking smooth and aesthetically pleasing, plus tape is dirt cheap. If you had an mhz or an hpr, would you really use those big bolts too? If the answer is yes, then clearly we aren't on the same page and that's ok.

And I prefer the hatch with square corners like your daytona as it fits so much better. Mine I can barely slide into place it's so tight. This is how the new, revised genesis looks (http://www.spassfahrer.de/galerie/im...1301417187.jpg)

I have rubber washers under the bolts. water does not get it. its sat upside down for half an hour a couple times. If youve seen any of my vids, I simply flip the boat upside down, give it a little shake to get the water out the edges. Hey! to each their own!

[TheShaddix]

This is the one I got click here

I had it from a smaller boat so just wanted to use it here. If it doesn't work out, I'll get a low profile servo. But this one is waterproof and hitec has proven itself even soaked in salt water, whereas my savox crapped out that cost over twice as much.

[Fella1340]

OK, that's a standard size servo with lots of power. When you said it was a micro servo I pictured something much smaller. Why did your twice as much savox servo fail? If it wasn't waterproof and not treated properly it's not the servos fault.

[TheShaddix]

Sorry, wrong link. Mine is the micro version. http://hitecrcd.com/products/servos/...-servo/product

it was my fault for sure with the savox, it got wet (fresh water), but, in my opinion, it's overpriced (at 120 that I paid) and does the same thing as the hitec servo (50 bucks), but the latter is fully waterproof. I just don't see why people would get a savox servo for a boat rudder when it doesn't justify the cost. If you have your reasons, do tell because I can't think of any.

[Fella1340]

A lot of things will do the job for less money. That doesn't make them better. Time should tell how long your hitec micro servo will last in the application.

[TheShaddix]

your point is understood. However, the standard hitec servo in my hpr has been working fine for a long time now and after countless crashes and water exposure. In my case, it wins my vote over the savox. And if it fails, I have no problem replacing it. Thanks for your input.

[keithbradley]

Looking good Dennis!

Have you used the expanding foam you're using before this? It's a Urethane 2 part, correct?

In regards to your hydraulics, I would put the shaft tightly in a vice and yank on the cables with pliars. I've seen a number of that brand that were poorly glued and came apart. If that is the case with yours it's better to find out now and fix it properly instead of have one break during a run.