Genesis build

[olwarbirds]

I truly hope I wasnt coming across the wrong way, I was truly trying to warn you as now others have. My transom after doing what you planned on originally started to separate from the hull. Its a great hull, it just needs some help. Everytime I got it into the 80's and up it went airborne on me, so was never able to get a confirmed GPS plus radar gun reading. My Neu 1515 had upgraded bearings along with my esc having a very custom made capbank by me. Capbanks when it comes to "SAW" runs can really make a big difference. As does lipos, you need good high c with a decent amount of mah. The prop I was running was a very modded 645 it had been s/b/t but also had been cupped. With that prop if I hit the throttle wide open at a stand still it would do a double 360 from the torque. Unfortunatley this hull got crunched in shipping or there would be vids of it available. I am now helping a bud build a Daytona hull with the same components, plus I will be building a 8S daytona once I get my Dragboat done. Twins in your Genesis is a big undertaking, but it will stop the torque probs that I battled constantly...keep up the nice looking work and Happy Holidays and again I do apologize for sounding in a way I didnt really intend.... DJ

[SD Eracer]

I don't think anyone took it wrong Olwarbirds, the advice on reinforcements is excellent, thank you.

I actually was at our local saltwater pond yesterday with our electric boat group, here is a video of TheShaddix running my boat on 4S while I took a quick vid on my phone.

Before I go 6S exclusively, I'll definitely need to do the reinforcements on the hull, but she is pretty fast on a couple of cheap Turnigy 2S 5000mAh batteries!

The dual-drive monster that the TheShaddix will be building should be amazing.

[TheShaddix]

Olwarbirds, it's all good. Any advice is always appreciated. We're here to enjoy this hobby, not to hold anything against one another. I may have sounded a bit too sure of myself in my previous message, so your response was well deserved! All good though!

Anyway, finally completed the inlay, haven't had much time for anything else. I prefer to use 12k carbon fabric, it's about the strength and thickness of 4 layers of regular 3k but in one sheet. Makes a huge difference overall in rigidity, but is much harder to cut, saturate, etc. I prefer to apply resin to it outside of the boat first, make sure all of it is properly soaked, then get the excess off with a foam roller, then lay it in and work from there. There are other ways to do inlays, but i found this one works best for me.

[Roy Van De Sande]

[olwarbirds]

That will help keep that hull from torque twisting. I actually had my motor mount break loose several times due to that hull twisting. I finally made some stringers out of hardwood and ran them down each side of the motor mount. You can see in the pic how I sandwiched the mount legs.... DJ

[olwarbirds]

SD, thats a good vid and the boat is running nice for a 4S, I would be happy too. It did sound and look like "possibly" that your running that 642 a bit shallow. Trim on the hull looked perfect ! Try dropping your strut like 1-2mm, I know thats not alot but with this hull thats a big diff. How are your temps ? Looking good guys, I love this Hull cant wait to get my Daytona going.... DJ

[SD Eracer]

SD, thats a good vid and the boat is running nice for a 4S, I would be happy too. It did sound and look like "possibly" that your running that 642 a bit shallow. Trim on the hull looked perfect ! Try dropping your strut like 1-2mm, I know thats not alot but with this hull thats a big diff. How are your temps ? Looking good guys, I love this Hull cant wait to get my Daytona going.... DJ

Thanks Olwarbirds, I think you were right, I dropped it about 1mm and it made a difference, still fast but more stable. At this point, I am exclusively on 6S. I noticed that my boat seems to like running on 6S with a 1600kv motor than 4S with a 2200kv motor. The speed difference isn't all that much, but the sound and thunder is :)

I'll stick with 6S for now, my temps are 115F or below on the Motor and ESC with a 42mm prop. I tried a M545 prop, the temps got up quite a bit if I do a bunch of SAW runs in a row. I'll update the cooling system with two intakes and use a more mild 45mm prop, like a M445 and see what kind of temps and speeds I get.

On a side note, we noticed another SeaKing 180a V3 go up in flames, nearly melting down a carbon kevlar Cheetah in the process. I'm a little worried since we all run this ESC.

[kfxguy]

Make sure your props are nice and thin, very sharp. That will help with temps. Here's a list of things to help with temps...

- batteries...they must be more than adequate. In this setup I'd recommend 50c or higher. Not turnigy nano techs either.
- wires short. If they are Unnecessarily long, more resistance=more heat
-connectors. Ec5, deans, etc won't cut it. 6.5mm bullets or higher, 6.5 bullets on motor too. I prefer the castle green connectors on your battery connections.
-cap bank. That esc needs a decent cap bank. Those two little weenie caps on the wires...lol. I remove them and put a real cap bank on. The castle one works great but ideally (5) 50v 1000uf caps work really good.
-make sure you have a decent gap between your strut and drive dog.
-if it's running wet, that will cause extra heat.
-drill out whatever water fittings you can. Most of them have tiny holes, go up a few steps in drill size...even the fitting on the rudder. Make sure there no kinks in the hose or partial kinks.
And like dj said, 1 mm of strut movement makes a big difference. I've lost 10mph by being off that much.

[SD Eracer]

I don’t want to hijack TheShaddix build thread, but he has been really cool in allowing his build post to have more general “Genesis Content” as well. So while we patiently wait for more pictures of his amazing carbon work, I’ll post this.

Great info Kfxguy, below is what I got….

Make sure your props are nice and thin, very sharp. That will help with temps. Here's a list of things to help with temps...

Check, though I could do better on this.

- batteries...they must be more than adequate. In this setup I'd recommend 50c or higher. Not turnigy nano techs either.

Ok, I’m probably cheap on this. I use Turnigy 2S 5000mAh 40C-50C batteries. In a combination of 4S and 6S since I have several boats.

- wires short. If they are Unnecessarily long, more resistance=more heat

Check!

-connectors. Ec5, deans, etc won't cut it. 6.5mm bullets or higher, 6.5 bullets on motor too. I prefer the castle green connectors on your battery connections.

Again, I’m probably cheap on this. I’ve only recently converted all my boats and batteries over to Castle 5.5mm, it will be hard to convert all of them over to 6.5mm. I do have 8mm Castles on my ESC to Motor though on the Genesis.

-cap bank. That esc needs a decent cap bank. Those two little weenie caps on the wires...lol. I remove them and put a real cap bank on. The castle one works great but ideally (5) 50v 1000uf caps work really good.

Now this is the info I’ve been trying to find. I couldn’t find anyone who would confirm if I should remove the factory cap banks and upgrade them. If not the Castle, where did you find the (5) 50v 1000uf caps?

-make sure you have a decent gap between your strut and drive dog.

Check. I leave about .187 or more for the 3/16th drive.

-if it's running wet, that will cause extra heat.

Check. I like the boat at the edge of control, usually quite dry.

-drill out whatever water fittings you can. Most of them have tiny holes, go up a few steps in drill size...even the fitting on the rudder. Make sure there no kinks in the hose or partial kinks.

Excellent advice, I’ll do just that. All my new fittings are the largest sized Octura through hull and outlet fittings with 4mm inside diameter hoses. I'll have to drill out the dual rudder fittings.

And like dj said, 1 mm of strut movement makes a big difference. I've lost 10mph by being off that much.

Check, I’ll have to evaluate this as I go. So easy to change the strut settings on the Genesis.

[kfxguy]

I buy rubycon caps off ebay. Just easy for me to click buy it now. Well you could probably get by with the 5.5 castles.
The biggest mistake I see people do is use turnigy nano techs. They are very dangerous in high load applications. (Boats!) In sport running boats, they may be ok, in rc cars and trucks they may be ok...but I would not trust them in a fast boat. I know some people may be getting away with it, but I value my boats too much to take that chance.

[SD Eracer]

...
The biggest mistake I see people do is use turnigy nano techs. They are very dangerous in high load applications. (Boats!) In sport running boats, they may be ok, in rc cars and trucks they may be ok...but I would not trust them in a fast boat. I know some people may be getting away with it, but I value my boats too much to take that chance.

I'm using Turnigy, but not the Nano Techs. I'm using their 40-50C basic blue label stuff: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16194

I've used these exclusively since joining the RC boat hobby back in June of this year. Mostly in 4S on my Aquacraft Revolts, Lucas Oil and UL-1, but also on about 20 different runs on my Genesis, about half on 6S.

Have never puffed a battery, with temps at around 105 - 115 most of the time. Though on an extended 6S SAW run with a M545 prop, I did get about 125F! Though they didn't puff thank God.

I'll admit though, a lot of guys at my local pond are using these exact batteries and are puffing them now and again. But they are pushing the limits of 5S and 6S with high kv motors.

[Fella1340]

Just something to think about...it would have been better to have the Cf inlay go up the sides of the boat past the deck to hull join lines. If you have Cf left over some strips running from the back as far forward as you can get to the tips will greatly increase the chances of it staying together. The seam is another weak link on these boats and is generally done when reinforcing any cat hull. Running the carbon fiber on the tunnel as far forward as possible is a good idea to. Of course doing the tips and across the tunnel front is a must as well. Using a lighter weight Cf fabric may make the task easier, your call.

[TheShaddix]

A few updates. Not too much done due to the holidays.

- added side CF that runs all the way up the walls
- reinforced front tips and rear section with chopped up CF and resin
- added expandable foam (ran out of foam, hence the empty space...)
- trimmed hatch line for easier hull access


Next thing to do are the motor mounts. Always wanted to make my own from scratch, so I made a CF sheet (9 layers) which should be plenty strong. Still waiting on my rudder and other things.

[SD Eracer]

That's excellent work man, keep it up and post some more pics when they become available.

[TheShaddix]

Waiting on a few parts such as stinger shims and a new (longer) rudder, then I can finally mount some things! Very happy with the boat already, it's got some nice added weight to it vs. original but nothing crazy.