Pic 4 Found this foam ball in my garage after the inlay was done of course.
I use a foam ball like that mounted to a paint roller(small one) for squeezing epoxy in my inlay or FG needs. It works good for getting into tighter places and under decks.
20141215_192007.jpg here is what I'd like to do. This is the header from a shower enclosure, I saved it cause the extrusion looked like it could come in useful. I was originally thinking sliding strut but I like what this could be. Mount the motor to the part that slides in and then I could add some bolts to keep it from moving 20141215_192057.jpgthis is to show what the extrusion looks like and show how the one piece slides into the other. There are brackets that slide in and lock with set screws for the opposite side of the header, the lower profile, lighter side. I may consider finding some of those to mount to. No spares of those were included. 20141215_192650.jpg here is a Lil sample after I cut off one side of the header so it will sit flat on the g-10 20141215_192931.jpg this is just a oil rubbed bronze piece of u channel. Its for 3\8 glass. I like it because of color. Could also make a plate that would slide in here. 20141215_193145.jpg this is another option that might actually be the best, it would be the lightest but still plenty strong.
Here is my stainless fin I'll be trying out . it ended up a little bit longer then what was on there just not as wide . the blade tapers off more towards the tip compared to the fin that was on there before. I think that is good but
Is there a trick to drilling stainless steel? My 4" grinder made short work of the shank, but trying to drill a new hole was a PITA. Killed a few bits in the process.
I love the creative building. The fin looks great. I know there are special bits for stainless. I haven't tried any yet but I was told they were special cut or something. Ask at an auto or machine store.
Ok I got the transom reinforced, it's bulletproof, at least for 22 rounds.
Decided not to use g-10 and try this stuff out I got with my composite care package. I believe it is divinycell based on what I found on the Internet and what I think I was told.
It was pretty thick stuff but it's paper light. Basically a cost effective alternative to honycomb.
I made a paper template transfered it to the divinycell (what I'm referring to it as until corrected) it cuts real easy with a razor blade. Then I cut a price of the 1k to match.
I'm going to have to try the spray adhesive method one of these times. Not terribly happy with how the cf has been turning out. It's decent I just know it could/should be better.
So I wetted out the transom and the first piece of 1k. Then layer in the 1k, next I wet out the divinycell on both sides. Set that in place then used the tape to cap it all in.
Here is where I went wrong I think, after stippling in the cf tape I didn't do anything to remove the excess resin, thought it would press out.
So what I did was put release film, then a paper towel (was supposed to absorb excess resin but didn't really work.) Then I put that piece of 1/4 inch mirror and clamped it all down. Set it by a space heater for 20 or so min and then left it.
When I went to take out the mirror piece it was stuck so I had to drill from the other side to pop it loose. The resin did get squeezed out but only to the release film, I sanded down the build up but it still isn't amazing. I wish I at least wish I would have lined up the fibers better. They kinda look like they sag in the middle.
Following your build, looks great! Man, those turn fins are killers. Should dub your boat the "Tactical Blade P-Mono"!
I don't think your CF layer looks shabby at all.
That honeycomb stuff, I have a question: I know they are pretty strong considering how light they are, but when you saturate the area does the epoxy penetrate into the inside of the honeycomb? I have one sheet but thought that if you bend it, it can collapse just like corrugated card board box?
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