pursuit p mono build

[properchopper]

shaft on bottom is the one you did

[TheShaughnessy]

You sir are correct. Couldn't seem to get rid of that gap.
I'll be using a motor mount inspired by one of your builds. Still have to create it.

[properchopper]

You sir are correct. Couldn't seem to get rid of that gap.
I'll be using a motor mount inspired by one of your builds. Still have to create it.

LMK if you need anything....

[srislash]

Pic 4 Found this foam ball in my garage after the inlay was done of course.

I use a foam ball like that mounted to a paint roller(small one) for squeezing epoxy in my inlay or FG needs. It works good for getting into tighter places and under decks.

[TheShaughnessy]

Thas why I put it up. I noticed it in your build thread.

[TheShaughnessy]

OK I've been tossing around motor mount options.

20141215_192007.jpg here is what I'd like to do. This is the header from a shower enclosure, I saved it cause the extrusion looked like it could come in useful. I was originally thinking sliding strut but I like what this could be. Mount the motor to the part that slides in and then I could add some bolts to keep it from moving
20141215_192057.jpgthis is to show what the extrusion looks like and show how the one piece slides into the other. There are brackets that slide in and lock with set screws for the opposite side of the header, the lower profile, lighter side. I may consider finding some of those to mount to. No spares of those were included.
20141215_192650.jpg here is a Lil sample after I cut off one side of the header so it will sit flat on the g-10
20141215_192931.jpg this is just a oil rubbed bronze piece of u channel. Its for 3\8 glass. I like it because of color. Could also make a plate that would slide in here.
20141215_193145.jpg this is another option that might actually be the best, it would be the lightest but still plenty strong.

[TheShaughnessy]

Here is what this stuff is used for/ where it came from. Not sure how pic got sideways.

[TheShaughnessy]

Here is my stainless fin I'll be trying out . it ended up a little bit longer then what was on there just not as wide . the blade tapers off more towards the tip compared to the fin that was on there before. I think that is good but

Is there a trick to drilling stainless steel? My 4" grinder made short work of the shank, but trying to drill a new hole was a PITA. Killed a few bits in the process.

[srislash]

I love the creative building. The fin looks great. I know there are special bits for stainless. I haven't tried any yet but I was told they were special cut or something. Ask at an auto or machine store.

[TheShaughnessy]

Ok I got the transom reinforced, it's bulletproof, at least for 22 rounds.

Decided not to use g-10 and try this stuff out I got with my composite care package. I believe it is divinycell based on what I found on the Internet and what I think I was told.
It was pretty thick stuff but it's paper light. Basically a cost effective alternative to honycomb.

I made a paper template transfered it to the divinycell (what I'm referring to it as until corrected) it cuts real easy with a razor blade. Then I cut a price of the 1k to match.

I'm going to have to try the spray adhesive method one of these times. Not terribly happy with how the cf has been turning out. It's decent I just know it could/should be better.

So I wetted out the transom and the first piece of 1k. Then layer in the 1k, next I wet out the divinycell on both sides. Set that in place then used the tape to cap it all in.

Here is where I went wrong I think, after stippling in the cf tape I didn't do anything to remove the excess resin, thought it would press out.

So what I did was put release film, then a paper towel (was supposed to absorb excess resin but didn't really work.) Then I put that piece of 1/4 inch mirror and clamped it all down. Set it by a space heater for 20 or so min and then left it.

When I went to take out the mirror piece it was stuck so I had to drill from the other side to pop it loose. The resin did get squeezed out but only to the release film, I sanded down the build up but it still isn't amazing. I wish I at least wish I would have lined up the fibers better. They kinda look like they sag in the middle.

Next up is stringers and motor mount.

[tlandauer]

Following your build, looks great! Man, those turn fins are killers. Should dub your boat the "Tactical Blade P-Mono"!
I don't think your CF layer looks shabby at all.
That honeycomb stuff, I have a question: I know they are pretty strong considering how light they are, but when you saturate the area does the epoxy penetrate into the inside of the honeycomb? I have one sheet but thought that if you bend it, it can collapse just like corrugated card board box?

[TheShaughnessy]

I'm not sure I'm qualified to answer that, but I don't believe the honeycomb is suppose to be full of resin,just enough to stick a lamination to it.

I saturated both sides of the piece I used, which is not actually honeycomb, because I didn't want it to absorb any water

[tlandauer]

Thanks, I just wasn't sure how to properly use that material.

[TheShaughnessy]

Putting the motor at the rear can really make it difficult to get the bolts started and tight.

I decided to go with the sliding motor mount. It will lock in to place with a couple of bolts from the top.

Gonna have to come up with a shape for the rails. They are too tall right now to run the full length.

[srislash]

Putting the motor at the rear can really make it difficult to get the bolts started and tight.

I decided to go with the sliding motor mount. It will lock in to place with a couple of bolts from the top.

Gonna have to come up with a shape for the rails. They are too tall right now to run the full length.

Now speaking from experience, this is a brilliant idea. Easy removal would be nice.