pursuit p mono build

[TheShaughnessy]

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OK here is my pursuit all stripped down and ready for an inlay. I was thinking about using the heavier tape to run the sides with. But first use the1k cloth to do everything except the sides and put the tape over its so there are no loose edges. Looking for opinions from more experienced cf people. This will be my second inlay.

[srislash]

Why not wrap the 1k right around to under the hatch lip. One piece is the best strength and you won't see your taped edges under the lip. Just make a paper template for the cloth pattern first. Oh yeah, just tape the edges where the pattern is with scotch tape and trim carefully.

You can see where their FG ends in this pic as well as my CF

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[TheShaughnessy]

I don't know why, that's why I asked, I'll go ahead and set it up for a single piece. Should I go up the transom at all if I'm going to put a doubler on it?

[srislash]

If you are doubling it going up transom won't be necessary. It would really just be for look anyway really. I usually try to put the stitched end of the CF roll at transom for clean look.

[TheShaughnessy]

Here it is. I guess it came out ok. It should stiffen it up. Next step is going to be rails.

[srislash]

Looks real good. As far as stringers go, I am not sure what you are after but i did mine so they tied in the deck as well. You can check them out in the first couple pages here http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ket-quot-build

Just shooting ideas your way Mike.

[TheShaughnessy]

Wish you wouldn't have done that. Now I have make bulk heads ha ha. Still tossing the idea of a wet well/ flooded stuffing tube. It didn't have it before and ran well , would also mean relocating holes for a strut instead of the stinger that was there. I was thinking just two g-10 rails starting at transom and running them about 12 inches. I think thats how long the sheet I have is. The paint is going to be an Uncle Don's hobbies theme.

[TheShaughnessy]

pictures

Ok pics are worth a thousand words right?

pic one is just to show the side and such.


pic 2 is to show how far up I went.

Pic 3 shows how thin the v is still. After the stringers/during the install I'm going to run a piece of that CF tape (it's like 2.8k and loOKs better then the 1k) up the middle and up the stringers a lil.

Pic 4 is the hardware and bits. I haven't decided strut or stinger yet, I'd have to make a standoff to use the strut I have. I'm probably gonna ditch that motor mount aND do something creative there. I want easy motor in and out capabilities. The recessed area on the water cooled mounts can be a nightmare.

Pic 5 shows the ride area is pretty true so not much work needed there, happy about that.

Input welcome
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[srislash]

Mine had those imperfections on the ride area just as yours. But then a hefty hook on the one side. Good you went that far forward, I wish I had gone a couple more inches. But how was I to know about that turn one buoy. I got a couple cracks from the batteries cramming forward.

[ray schrauwen]

I was going to make apost last night but, I didn't want to be all cocky or aything. I know you aren't a noobie builder but, I wanted to mention that when you do inlay in these monos i.e. Pursuit, Cyberstorm, DF33, etc... when the inlay cures it can 'pull' the vee a bit causing a cup or bow.

When I do a Cyberstorm this winter, I'll build a jig so when I do inlay I can sit the hull in a cradle and put weight on the inside of the hull to help keep the 'V' from deforming so there is less tuning needed on the bottom. Same can go for installing rails. I think you knew all this already

[photohoward1]

Why do Cyberstorms or DF need inlays.?


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[TheShaughnessy]

Ray that's a good point. I had considered doing that. When I did my geico I put a "jig" under the tunnel and stacked a few hundred pounds on top of it.

I considered doing something like that with this pursuit, but I didn't feel it was nessesarry since I felt the hull was fairly true and wouldn't need much if any blue printing..

I'm posting this to get feed back. As you can tell from the pics I'm not an inlay master. I jumped the gun on this one a litile probably, I should have had a mini roller or something. I'm sorta leaning away from the rollers cause I noticed they can pull up the fabric if you arent careful.
Peel ply saved me on this one, I had way too much resin but that stuff works great at wicking out resin. The hull still has some flex so I will likely do some sort of jig when I set the rails.

Should I use the .125 g 10 or the 3/16 stuff for the rails and transom?

@ howard, I don't know that they need an inlay, I've ran this very boat several times without the inlay.

I'm doing it to increase rigidity and I like they way it looks aesthetically. D

[photohoward1]

I have always built motor rails. That stiffens the hull. Doesn't inlay add a lot of weight?


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[TheShaughnessy]

Perhaps I just bought in to the carbon fiber fad. However after a bit of light sanding to prep the outside for paint and a bit more to clean up the inside and this thing (boat) was paper thin and had pin holes at the bottom of the V. If you look at the pics one shows how thin it still is.

The rails will add longitudinal stiffness. I layed the fibers straight so they will be more for horizontal rigidity. It is a light fabric and I did my best to keep resin to a min. The benefits of durability are worth the weight in my opinion.

The bottom of this hull had several stress cracks and you could actually see where the motor and servo were mounted. I didn't want to mount straight to the FG this time around. A customer gave me all this CF cloth and resin so I wanted to use it is another reason.

[TheShaughnessy]

Pic 1 is the transom , using a piece of 1\4" g-10 plate for a transom doubler.

Pic2/3 I'm thinking bigger fins then what I have. I have a set of throwing knives I might sacrifice so I can have stainless fins and get them nice and sharp. One set is a lil small and the other is too big and I like them too much to bucher em.

Pic 4 Found this foam ball in my garage after the inlay was done of course. One flex I attached the stub, the other came preassembled from OSE. I can spot the difference can you?