1st mono build 29 inch

[okieman98]

ok a little surface prep, while watching a little football, off for a bath and order some carbon fiber to lay down. after looking at the transom i don't trust it can almost see light thru it so i going to cut some wood and lay some in just to make me feel better. was thinking i would use epoxy to glue the wood in and then cover with the carbon fiber u guys think that will work ok.

100_2251.jpg

[olwarbirds]

Jeff, looks ready. Yes thats a good way to do a transom doubler. Use a decent hardwood... DJ

[okieman98]

what would u suggest only have a lowes around here and how thick

[tlandauer]

Here in CA we have an Arts and Craft store call Michael's, they sell quality plywood . I imagine if you have a similar store they should sell something like that. These plywood is sold under the name of Revell of Revell Monogram brand, they are a bit less expensive that the Midwest brand. 3/32 or 1/8 will do.
I traced the shape of the transom on a piece of card board and trim little by little until I can fit that up right inside the hull flat against the inside transom, then simply traced the shape to the plywood board and cut it.
I "flooded" the transom with epoxy mixed with filler and slapped the doubler flat against the inner transom and placed the hull up right for it to cure. here is a shot of the wood doubler i made for my MHZ Lizard Xtreme. DSCN2269_1744.jpg
You don't need to mix your epoxy with filler, I was over doing it. Here is the filler: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK312&P=SM

[okieman98]

Here in CA we have an Arts and Craft store call Michael's, they sell quality plywood . I imagine if you have a similar store they should sell something like that. These plywood is sold under the name of Revell of Revell Monogram brand, they are a bit less expensive that the Midwest brand. 3/32 or 1/8 will do.
I traced the shape of the transom on a piece of card board and trim little by little until I can fit that up right inside the hull flat against the inside transom, then simply traced the shape to the plywood board and cut it.
I "flooded" the transom with epoxy mixed with filler and slapped the doubler flat against the inner transom and placed the hull up right for it to cure. here is a shot of the wood doubler i made for my MHZ Lizard Xtreme. [ATTACH=CONFIG]122885[/ATTACH]
You don't need to mix your epoxy with filler, I was over doing it. Here is the filler: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK312&P=SM

thanks for the pic and nice job in there clean , it also showed me how u set uo your shaft and mount helped a lot.

[olwarbirds]

Nicely done Tim....

[tlandauer]

Nicely done Tim....

Thank you for your kind words.
It was my first build and luckily she runs ok! Thanks to those who helped me out!

[okieman98]

what about hardware guys , going to try to pick a peace up here and there, been searching ebay and other sites, saw stringer what would yall use, and what size Rutter and turn fin size and so on might as well get some ordered. cf should be here this week some time.

[Fella1340]

Your doing a great job! I just wanted to mention the epoxy and cloth you were looking at on the eBay listing you posted is good stuff. I used it on the first boat I did Cf inlay on. It still looks good over a year later and is holding up great. The only advice I can think of is not to use to much epoxy. It takes way less than you think. Maybe a third of the bottle (your eBay listing) and when your done angle the boat with the bow pointing up high in the air, 45 degrees or so. The excess resin will run down the middle of the boat. Use paper towel to soak up the excess. It works wonders when doing a mono. Again, I am always surprised how much extra is still in there. The dabbing with the paper towel won't leave marks as the resin will flow flat again. Depending on epoxy choice and drying times you should still give yourself two plus hours once done to keep an eye on your work. It's not a job you want to walk away from as sometimes the epoxy will continue to pool for hours! Once it starts to tack up just leave it one the boat stand and that should be it! I've done a few monos and had great results. Getting the extra resin out can turn an ok job into a great one! You've been given some great advice from the guys, just wanted to stress this one point. Good luck and have fun!

[okieman98]

It's folks like y'all that are willing to help some one that will stay in the hobby that's makes the difference . I have got more help here then any place I have been and very greatful for it thanks everyone

[olwarbirds]

Jeff, dont go too cheap on your hardware. You will end up having to replace it due to it bending etc...are you going stringer or strut ? ....

[okieman98]

i am not sure , did not even know about the stringer till the other day, what is the best way to go. was going to order some of the peaces as i go like turn fins and trim tabs and so on. would like to find the ones that are colored blue but not sure it i can find it all that way.

[Make-a-Wake]

Actually a stringer is inside the boat, what you normally fasten the motor mount to, the rear hardware part is a stinger. I would go with a 3/16" setup all around.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str

[tlandauer]

If you look at my picture, the motor mount I was using was meant for a stringer ( a pair of stringers) since it takes two rails to secure the mount. But, my hull was designed as a FE hull and came without the pair, I had to replicate that , and in my case it is a half attempt since "real stringer" run from the transome typically and extend much further up to the front of the hull. Gas boat's engine usually rest on a mount that solely depends on the stringers. They are usually 5'' apart. These were more popular several years ago for people to use them to increase the rigidity of the hull, but now laying CF cloth is the "in thing" to do and I see less and less people use these stringers in their hulls. Seems the TFL motor mount is very popular but do keep in mind that on a thin hull it has a relatively small foot print. So some sort of hull reinforcement is really a good idea. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80210
As for hardware, you have been pointed to Speed Master, they are really some of the best you can buy with your money and if you decide to build another boat, they are ready for the new duty as you don't need to again up grade.
That being said, there was a boat that was made by Aqua Craft years ago ( well, not that long ago) called SV27 and used blue hardware, it came both as nitro powered and brussless powered versions and later a revised brushless Version called SV27R which used black anodized hardware. For the blue hardware, here is the link:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=AQUB22**&P=OW

I personally would go for the Speed Master, but I just want you to see it. It is also meant for a slightly smaller boat (27") anyway. The earliest version of this boat only had a starboard ( rightside) turn fin, sometime later they made a portside turn fin as well, therefore you will see two listings on the list.
Tower hobbies calls the stinger a strut, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMWB4&P=OW , but in reality to me, at least IMO , it resembles more as a stinger although it may lack the adjustibilies of a Speed Master Stinger. A strut should look like this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdss-001

My is only for your info. Pick quality hardware as said by other members.


Here is the brushless parts link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=AQUB17**&P=PU

[okieman98]

ok think i will stick with what everyone is saying and don't look for the blue. use the good stuff.