MHZ 138 Johnnie Walker Tribute

[nata2run]

Hi All,
Its been a while since I have posted a build, but many things have been going on and moving house has been one of them. Getting back into it all and setting up a new hobby room has been a P.I.T.A. not to mention getting equipment up and running.

Ok! A fella hits me up asking if I would be interested in building a boat in memory of he's late father... I thought it was great idea, knowing what it feels like to loose a parent.

The extreme was, that he's dad loved he's whiskey, and shared the same name as he's favourite (Johnnie Walker) Couldn't be more of a challenge for a fella like myself.

So to kick it off, here are some of the features of this very cool project in memory of Mr. Johnnie Walker "Keep Walking".

Hull: My personal, MHZ138 special carbon/kevlar/carbon lay-up
MHZ Rudder
Click Drives from MBP
SF240's
TP's 5660/1000kv
Savox servo
Carbon Parts by Yours truly.

[nata2run]

Alright, As mentioned this was a special order hull I had made for myself by MHZ. It is the standard carbon/kevlar, but with a final carbon inlay from factory. Definitely one of the hulls you wanna hang onto if you can get one. Anyway, I started as I usually do by making up my templates for the drives to ensure the mounting is 100% correct on both sides. I should mention this hull is very well made and not the slightest out of alignment. I use a CNC cut 1/2' acrylic template that allows me to line up the the holes and drill 100% perfect holes on both sides...

After the holes are drilled, everything just lines up! its made in a way that I can simply turn the template around and repeat the step on both sides.

Click drive fit close up.jpgClick drive template.jpgClick drives hole drilled.jpgClick drives templates all drilled.jpgClick drives templates close up.jpg

[nata2run]

I have to say, I hate the top part of the drives and always worry about getting that part wrong, so for the first time I made a template for those as well. I just didn't want to take any chances stuffing up this hull. This template was also CNC cut, but made in carbon fiber. Photos in no particular order!

Click drive top drilled.jpgClick drive top how it looks.jpgClick drive top measure.jpgClick drive top prepared.jpgClick drive top stuck on.jpg

[nata2run]

The result, 100% perfect alignment!!

Click drive alignment perfect.jpgClick drive just on.jpgClick drive top test.jpgClick drives just in.jpgClick drives just mounted.jpg

[nata2run]

Next were the motor mounts, featuring the JW logo with chrome foil. As usual, there is a bit of sanding and alignment to do for those to fit right. This time I completely redrew the mounts so I could fit the infill with out having to compromise. The mounts also got measured to fit this hull in particular, and the spot I wanted them in.
IMG_5549.jpgIMG_5550.jpgIMG_5551.jpg

[nata2run]

I found, aligning the mounts without considering stuffing tubes lets you see the bend of the cable before its encapsulated. The tube can then be bent to fit. No binding what so ever in this system.

IMG_5573.jpgIMG_5579.jpgIMG_5582.jpg

[iridebikes247]

Awesome job Kent, the 1000kv motor is very powerful. Drives look great too, I always get nervous before installing the flanges and especially pedestal mount lol

[Xcesive8]

Geeezz how was outa space buddy, you've been gone a while!
Good to see you getting back into a build..
Without a doubt its going to be very nice!

[nata2run]

Thanks Ryan, outa space was truly outa space lol hope you been well

[PowerDemon]

Fantastic looking build! Can't wait to see it finished.

[nata2run]

Awesome job Kent, the 1000kv motor is very powerful. Drives look great too, I always get nervous before installing the flanges and especially pedestal mount lol

Thanks buddy, yes you are right about the motors, they seem very powerful. Cant wait to do a maiden

[nata2run]

As usual, I did the stuffing tubes with carbon wrap, not that its needed but it gives a nice look to the whole system and also helps bond better to the spacers/supports. I used some masking tape around the tube supports for better look before I epoxied them in. I should mention tubes and cabels are from Gundart Germany. Collets are Lehner 8mm to 1/4"

close up carbon on stuffing tube.jpgclose up stuffing tube.jpg

[nata2run]

Off she went to the spray painters for a bit of color. Very hard to see in pictures, but its a Saphire black, BMW metallic. They did an amazing job, and being a marine restorer they know how to handle a boat!

Hull at spray painter.JPGHull just painted.jpg

[nata2run]

Next was the water intakes...I drilled out the holes with a smaller drill and ended up sanding until the tubes fit. Its always a good idea to use masking tape before you drill any holes. I also taped around the tubes after install so I could sand then nice and flush. Once done I further taped in a square shape around the intakes to get the size of the tear drop cut. This way I know they are identical on both sides, and that I'm cutting in a straight line. (I have a few more images, will upload when I find them)

both intake tubes fitted.jpgboth intakes cut up close.jpgclose up for sanding.jpgCuttin intake with dremel.jpgIMG_5803.jpg

[nata2run]

On to the rudder and hydraulics part. Nothing unusual there, except MHZ need to do the hydraulics a bit more in the style of HPR. The long grove and way off center screws don't do it for me on this 138 model. But never mind, It can still be fitted. I do like to run the wires in teflon tubes, but the parts don't seem to be setup that way. Using masking tape is a good idea, you can measure and write on it. Then a ultra thin double sided tape will hold the parts in place as you drill holes.

Hydraulic just fitted.jpgHydraulic measured.jpgHydraulic taped.jpg