missed some, What is that 1/8" thick piece of wood for? I made my own coverout of c/f as it the wood was warped like many parts on the hull. I did my best, just some finish sanding then clear, then cowl and rig it up.
Cool Ray.
I love it when a boat gets close to painting.
I had to giggle at that fantastic array of weights & clamps. It's just what I do. Any thing that works. I especially like the leaning tower of Pizza with a drill vice on top.
Good to finally see some pics! Nice job!! You have a fine collection of miscellaneous 'weight'. Is that a four jaw chuck back there?? I'm glad to see that we all use about the same level of ridiculousness for clamping down the deck.
I like the aluminum tubes you used to keep things square during the framing as well! nice!
It was necessary to try and keep those stringers straight since it was a second hand kit it had some warping issues I had to fight with but, overall it look pretty good. At leat I have that Byron Jet filler for the canopy, that should make it easier. The cowl looks like a PITA to cut to 4-1/4" wide but, I'll get it. Sanding & testing my clear coat today. No spray, just brush on. I'm going to thin my MAS with their recommendation of using Lacquer Thinner to thin it out. I want it like water so I can hang it and excess can drip off sponson tips. Test first, then coat it.
Looks really nice. I have one to do, likely the winter now. Feel free to post as many pictures as you can and any of the pitfalls to watch out for. I was a little disappointed how warped most of the wood was out of the box to. Your efforts posting as much of the build as you can will not be a wasted effort! I will need all the help I can. keep up the great work!
It was necessary to try and keep those stringers straight since it was a second hand kit it had some warping issues I had to fight with but, overall it look pretty good.
Originally posted by Fella1340
I was a little disappointed how warped most of the wood was out of the box to.
Yep, thin plywood just doesn't have a chance when it comes to warping. I've tried everything, but I think the key is having the same moisture content on both sides. Spray a little water on the concave side and it will straighten out. I use that trick to straighten pcs so they lay flat on the laser cutter.
BTW, I've tried everything to store plywood and keep it straight, including laying all pcs on a flat glass table with weights. They just absorb moisture from each other and end up warped to beat the band! Seems that leaving them open to air on both sides is best so both sides have equivalent moisture content (assuming they were straight to begin with!).
Pictures of servo area and one light coat of MAS epoxy thinned with Lacquer thinner this was an experiment that did fairly well. The bottom didn't get the coverage like the top did and most likely because I did not keep stirring mixture as I went. I use 1 part thinner to 2 parts epoxy. It does work with no ill effects but, I'll give my final opinion after coat two hopefully today but, it's raining outside where I prefer to work.
You would be surprised at how much epoxy gets applied even when thinned. I used 180 grit to break off the glaze and take down high spots and dust. Looks nice in wood so I hope coat two turns out better. Remember I'm only using a one inch wide $1.00 brush from the dollar store, I'm cheap.
Servo cover is bling, cowl will either be solid orange or black. Depending how this coat goes will determine how much painting I do, hate painting, specially hydroplanes
O.k. what grit of paper do I use on the Fg cowl before I start on the pin holes??? Please help, Blazer Marine will take 24 hours to get back to me....
I have Byron Jets filler for the pin holes.
220, 320, 400, or what???
I used 400. Regarding pinholes, I use drywall spackling (a little bit on your finger). Rub it on. It will dry while you are rubbing and roll right into the pin holes. Sand and topcoat with epoxy paint. I've had a lot of success doing this and it is quick and easy (can't take the credit though, Ball told me this).
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