Maiden Runs - Insane FE30 & Insane Mono 34

[srislash]

Glad to hear some positive headway Rick.

[rickwess]

A pic being worth a thousand words............how I'm measuring the trim tab position. In this case, the spot of the trim tab that is level with the bottom of the hull is 30mm off the transom. Makes it easy to get both trim tabs the same.

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[rickwess]

Well, I've backed off the trim tabs to the point that it's starting to chine walk. I assume that means I've got to add just a little more negative trim tab. Correct?

The ESC is getting VERY warm though. Not just caps and the ESC body, but the wires as well. Gonna start a separate thread on that.

[srislash]

You could also try the strut up a bit to settle the hull in the water. But the warming ESC... Smaller prop?

Just looked back, you still running that 447/3? Try a 2 blader. Or a 445.

I also see that the stinger can't be raised without effort so still back to too much blade in water.

[rickwess]

When you say stinger up to settle the boat do you mean a little positive angle?

I thought the x447/3 (de-tongued) would be a small prop for that motor/ESC combo. I can try my m445.

[srislash]

No that is gonna float the nose in the air. I mean stinger up in relation to hull. It is a fine line between enough prop for the desired speed and and too much prop 'bite'. This is why I went strut on my Bling, I just had sooo much time into the DF with the stinger to get it right. I would try a smaller one and see if it will get settled. May get the heat issue fixed too.

Is it 'rudely' chine walking? Or just some?

[rickwess]

Will do. With 4s2p though, it's a heavy boat.

If the m445 solves the ESC heat issue, do you think it would be better to prop up using a larger 2 blade (e.g. m545) or a smaller de-tongued 3 blade (e.g. x437/3)?

[srislash]

I have had good results with M545's, maybe a back it on it would be beneficial. I did find that the X6 series props were causing the DF to hop resulting in submarine'ing.

[rickwess]

Some interesting data on the Hydro. Running a TP4050 2220kv on 4s1p and a m545 prop. Pulling much more current than the heavier mono. That's why I'm thinking the ESC in the mono could be pooched after being submerged.

I only measured 115F at the caps when I pulled it in so the logged temps were a bit of a surprise. The m545 might be too much prop though.

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[electric]

Well, I've backed off the trim tabs to the point that it's starting to chine walk. I assume that means I've got to add just a little more negative trim tab. Correct?

The ESC is getting VERY warm though. Not just caps and the ESC body, but the wires as well. Gonna start a separate thread on that.

Was scanning though your thread and thought I would comment on the wires. You need to make the wires from the esc to the motor as short as possible. I really did not believe this would make that big a difference, but I have had the wires get so hot that the rubber around the connectors started to melt. Shortened the wires and no more hot wire problems. It is that dramatic. They really need to be short, every inch of length makes a huge difference. I have heard it said that this can cause esc failures in the sense the heat of those wires are being conducted into the esc itself. Not sure if you have already done this, but thought it was worth mentioning.

I used to run a Insane Mono just like yours.

[srislash]

I don't recall seeing pics of the wires. But the rule is 8" from battery to ESC. Less is better. Caps will aid in saving the ESC but only mask the problem otherwise. They will still get hot. I try to do 8" from batt to motor.

[srislash]

So Rick, how fast is she(the mono) going? I ran my Bling today and on 4s and 447 was solid. Then went up to 5s and a 445 prop and a chine walking she went

[rickwess]

With the m445, my gut-o-meter is saying mid to high 40's. A few mph faster with teh x447/3. I was surprised that the m445 was able to push that heavy mono as fast as it did.

The ESC to Motor wire length is what came with each part. Neither Swordfish or TP are overly generous with their wires. The ESC is sitting right on top of the motor and to orientate the ESC to minimize the battery wires I'm needing all the ESC - Motor wires that were given.

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The ESC - Battery wires are about 8". There might be 1" excess wire between the two, but I'm still playing with CoG.

[electric]

With the m445, my gut-o-meter is saying mid to high 40's. A few mph faster with teh x447/3. I was surprised that the m445 was able to push that heavy mono as fast as it did.

The ESC to Motor wire length is what came with each part. Neither Swordfish or TP are overly generous with their wires. The ESC is sitting right on top of the motor and to orientate the ESC to minimize the battery wires I'm needing all the ESC - Motor wires that were given.

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The ESC - Battery wires are about 8". There might be 1" excess wire between the two, but I'm still playing with CoG.

ESC wires look short enough. Hey, do you have anything between the esc and the motor? Meaning, I have a carbon fiber mount between the two, but yours looks like maybe metal to metal??

[rickwess]

ESC wires look short enough. Hey, do you have anything between the esc and the motor? Meaning, I have a carbon fiber mount between the two, but yours looks like maybe metal to metal??

There is an aluminum ESC plate for the motor mount. This pic shows it best:

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