Tim's Nitro Vee Conversion

[timtana]

Hi new to OSE,
I have a Traxxas Nitro Vee and want to convert it to Electric, I go places where the gas motor is just too loud, also I want to be able to take the boat without carrying fuel ect. along.
I am using this just for fun on camping trips, I would like to use the existing controller, receiver, basically as much as possible to keep costs down.
I would like to go 30+mph faster would be better and I don't mind spending a few extra $ if it is worth it.
I am thinking about a brushless with lipo batteries, taking off the rudder and drive and going with a stinger and aluminum rudder setup.
Maybe going to reinforce the transom and bilge area, I may even cut out the inner bay and reinforce the entire hull with wood and epoxy?
Being such a rookie at this and still need to figure out what motor, batteries and ESC, so many options out there and pretty confusing for someone who is new to this.
Any suggestions would be great, wish me luck!!RC1.JPGRC2.JPGRC3.JPGRC5.JPG

[beau0090_99]

So... To convert this would be easy electrically, but you may want to change out the driveline a bit. It would be simple to pull out the driveline and put in a stuffing tube and change to a 3/16 drive setup. That would open up some options for use of different props. I would use a 4S lipo setup and then grab a 35 or 36 mm inrunner motor in the 1500-2200 kv range. Use an ESC rated for 80-120 Amps. With the new stuffing tube, you will want to mount a new offset or inline rudder. You can use a stinger for the end of the drive line to hold the stuffing tube, but then you would want to drill the rear of the transom at the bottom of the vee to accommodate this. Good luck. Being a newbie, this won't be the easiest thing to do and will probably cost nearly $250 to accomplish, so you may want to reconsider. A better bet would be to sell the Nitro Vee and pick up a RTR Revolt 30. It is set to go and for the price you get a better handling boat.
Good luck,
Curtis

[timtana]

Well I get what you are saying about buying an RTR boat and selling the Nitro but a friend gave me the Nitro and I could not sell it and I really want to build it myself just for the challenge/fun/satisfaction.
I found a Traxxas Villain build thread on this site and it has some great info on it so I am going to get started on the transom and hull by doing some cutting glassing and epoxy work.
I will probably order ESC, motor, motor mount, motor cooling jacket, drive shaft and stuffing tube, flex shaft, this week so I can lay everything out.
I saw that others did not use a stinger as you said so I am just going to go with the stuffing tube.
Thanks for the info Curtis any other help along the way would be great!!

[timtana]

Well I am past the point of no return, I cut out all of the inside down to the hull and will begin reinforcing the transom and hull, the more I think about this build the more sure I am about doing it, if I like this as much as I think I will I'll be building another boat after this one and I hope to learn on this old boat before I go and start on what I think will be my next project, I really enjoy the build process, as far as a motor and ESC I am going with a Proboat 1800kv and a Turnigy 120 as suggested by Alexgar in another thread, as for batteries what should I get for long runtimes?
RC6.JPG

[timtana]

Well I got some work done slow as it may be, I got some ply from my local Michaels craft store, had some glass from a small boat that I restored and bought some epoxy, reinforced the transom and hull, it is way more stiff and solid than before, after a lot of sanding it came out pretty good.
I ordered and received some parts too, 1/4 inch brass tubing for the drive Octura .150 flex cable with Teflon, Octura coupler, aluminum rudder with pickup, motor mount, some tubing, water outlet, 2 Graupner props 1-40mm and 1-42mm also an A3630 1500Kv proboat motor (was going to go with the 1800 but could not pass up on the deal for the 1500) I may change it motor later and use it on one of my next projects.
This brings me to a few questions:

1. This motor says it is rated for continuous current of 40-50 amps should I run this battery http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Lipo_Pack.html it says it has 14.4v can I have two of these in parallel for good speed and long run times?

2. Will this http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ming_Card.html ESC work for what I am trying to do?

3. In the picture below I have my rudder it would extend out long enough to run in line with the drive, what are the pros and cons of this?

4. Thrust bearing, should I be using one of these for this setup?

5. Charger, as I go out to lakes and large rivers in my camper what is the best way to charge? I do have 2 deep cycle 12v batteries in the rig and a 1000w 12v to 120v power inverter.

IMG_3353.jpgIMG_3354.jpgIMG_3359.jpg

[lenny]

Hi,
Looks like you are having fun.
Hear a heads up.
For the cells go with blue turnigy 30c/40c or just 40c 5000mah,
And for the esc go with the Seaking/Turnigy 120a and program card. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._Boat_ESC.html

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7187__Turnigy_Speed_Controller_Programming_Card.html

Also you do not need to use thrust bearing on these new motors.
You also should find a way to offset the rudder,
The inline rudder will get in the way of the thrust cone of water coming from the prop.

[Alexgar]

The 1500 ps a great motor with loads of torque and you cqn usr it later on your next build.just wanted to subscribe so I can get auto email updates on this thread

[timtana]

Thanks for the reply's, I am going to get the batteries and ESC ordered next week, could you give me a link as to what battery you would pick? there are so many, I will start now on drilling for the drive and rudder, also epoxy in the motor mount, I still need to figure out what charger to get? do either one of you guys have experience ordering from hobby king I read that it can be good or bad, any tips? only ordered from OSE and a hobby shop in NJ so far, both were great and fast.

[timtana]

Slow work on the boat, I have been working and took off camping last 2 weekends.
Still have not yet ordered any more parts but I have learned a lot by reading, reading, reading a lot here on OSE and some other sites too, I have mocked up the drive put in some mounts for the shaft and started the mount for the steering servo, figured out my COG with the weight of my batteries, motor and radio equipment and think I have a good starting point for mounting everything with some wiggle room for the batteries to adjust.
I see now that this is going to be a process and I am really enjoying it, just wish I had more time to dedicate to it.
I have however figured out what direction I want to go after this build, after reading and surfing a lot I want to take the old drive and other parts left from the VEE and build a small wood bout from scratch, something zippy and fun.
Then or during that time I am going to build a 40ish inch mono from the hull up, something fast!! I think by that time I will know enough to do it right without blowing a grand or so because I am such a rookie.
Here are some pics.IMG_3364.jpgIMG_3369.jpg

[Alexgar]

Looking great love the nice gradual stuffing tube did you glass the bottom?

[timtana]

Yeah I did glass the bottom and the transom, non of the tube mounts or motor mount are epoxied in yet, going to mock it all up and then do it all at once.

[timtana]

Well I ordered the Turnigy Aquastar120 ESC and program card, 2-5000mah 35c lipos and the turnigy 6a balance charger today, still am going to need a few misc. parts but will do one final OSE order when I get everything mocked up.
My next builds will be far more organized as far as parts ordering goes.
This weekend I hope to get the hull ready to layout and install my ESC and batteries when they arrive, also I am going to finish the stuffing tube, motor mount and receiver mount.
FUN FUN FUN!!!

[Norwest]

Well here goes. I'd place motor toward the rear with lipos ahead of motor. Place lipos beside each other after CG is found which can be 28-32%. You can place esc on top of motor which is often done. Run turn fins and trim tabs cause of narrow hull. Does boat have full strakes or do they fall short of transom by 3-5"? This will be a FUN project and love doing this type. Keep all posted!!!

[timtana]

Thanks Norwest,
The hull does have full strikes all the way to the transom.
What are the advantages of putting the motor farther back?
The reason I went farther from the transom is to have the stuffing tube have the angle I wanted out of the transom without having too much bend to it.
As far as trim tabs and turn fins I was going to wait until I did some test runs on this project and then add them if necessary, do you think I should just add them now? If so any suggestions as to size etc?

[Norwest]

Turns fins , yes. Now if using flex cable will in a straight line will whip and cause problems. Now a straight shaft would work in your present stuffing tube. Ok, with straight shaft, the portion sticking out of transom will need bearings on flex or straight shaft too. Why I say motor toward rear allows using flex cable with a small S in stuffing tube with or without liner. When you get lipos and assemble all equipment loosely around CG line, YOU'LL understand fully why I say about laying lipos side by side in front of motor. I know your not dumb but gas or electric are 2 different fields. There's a gentlemen by the name of Properchopper who had a boat already setup and sold it with motor in the rear. The full strakes lift the whole boat up and require less power when under way. I don't race as the closest is Wisconsin and my boat budget by goes toward health insurance. No comment. These typed words are thru experience of many years. Have a good day! I'll be reading this thread and see how your doing. Thanks for reading.