Tim's Nitro Vee Conversion

[timtana]

I am using a flex shaft, could I shorten it and have a bend in it, not totally an S but just bent out of the coupler to the tube?
And how about trim tabs, should I get them now?
Also I must say how much I appreciate the input you (Norwest), Alexgar and anyone gives me, I would probably not even be doing this without being able to read about this hobby and the ability to post and get great advice, Thank you!!!!

[timtana]

IMG_3379.jpgIMG_3382.jpgHow about like this? The batteries will weigh 2.5 lbs. I measured roughly 1/3 (8.75in.) from the transom the length of the boat and put a 2 lb. weight and 1/2 lb. of fishing weights and balanced it on one side of my stand and where the 2lb is sitting in the pic. is where the batteries would be located with some room to move forward and back, the length of the weight is only a couple of mm short of the actual battery size.
What is the best/easiest way to bend brass tubing?
I threw in a pic of my work area, just for kicks.

[Norwest]

Bending stuffing tube- Do you have a drill bit of the same size of id of s/tube and pair of gloves. Take your time and make a bend so not to kink brass till all looks smooth and remainder outside transom be level. I see your using 3/16" cable and all looks great. I'd put the CG mark inside some where. When you think you will need t/tabs, place inside edge of t/tabs 1 1/8 " from middle of stringer or strut. Length of strut or stringer should be 10-13% of the length of boat according to Hoil, LOL! I notice the s/tube should be 1/2" from coupler when tightened. Tip- when done cut a 3/16" water line hose to fit over cable so if all h*** breaks loose from coupler, the hose will keep cable from Davey Jones Locker. Nothing wrong with workshop, does the job.

[timtana]

Yeah I do have all sizes of drill bits, will heating up the tube over my gas stove work? I can do it when the wife is not home, haha!
I have not ordered a stinger or strut but 10 percent would be 3" that would be pretty long? And should I go with a stinger? Or strut? What would you use on this boat?
Great idea on the water line hose, would hate to have to get out the snorkel to find my drive.

[Norwest]

You don't need much of a bend. Now 3" isn't very long. I have 22" monos with 3" strut. Get a strut that is adjustable ( up and down ). Have your rudders front edge be equal with dog drive and rudder be 1 1/2" from strut and turn fins be 90 degrees to bottom of transom. Now for grease of cable can be utter palm that is used on cow utters in a thin coat and seems to hold up well. Don't laugh, it works. What I've typed works great. I have some 22" monos with no t/tabs which is due to balance of both CG and side to side. You know what I do on flex cable is to sand where flex makes its bend in stuff tube to reduce friction. I got this from U.K. guru many years ago just to make it shiny is enough. Also the tip of cable that enters coupler is to solder if coupler has set screws and if coupler doesn't have set screws, disregard.

[timtana]

Today I will be attempting the tube bend, I will post how it goes.
I am going to add the 3" strut to my list, along with the turn fins, not sure yet about the trim tabs, I may just purchase and add them later or use on another boat.
When I installed my rudder I just put it where I thought it needed to be, after your post I measured it and it is about 1 mm short of 1-1/2 inches!
Utter palm!! While it sounds good/weird haha! I already have some grim racer boat lube.
No set screws but I will solder the flex anyway.
Sanding the flex, does it matter that I am using Teflon coated flex?

[Norwest]

1mm is good. Grease for flex, I just use a light film. Now soldering coupler end is the set screws can distort cable end and create wobble. Yours looks like a clamp type coupler. You can use Teflon liner in stuffing tube.

[timtana]

Okay sounds good.
My 1st attempt at bending tube went well, the drill bit in the end went great, held the other end with a fork, I am going to wait to glue it in until I get the strut.
I have some vents on the cover that were for the nitro motor to vent, I cut some Styrofoam to fit over it and will glue it down then turn it over and epoxy the top side before painting, it will seal the vents from water and float the cover if it comes off, also I am filling the old antenna hole and putting a solid mount antenna.IMG_3394.jpgIMG_3395.jpgIMG_3396.jpgIMG_3397.jpgIMG_3398.jpg

[Norwest]

You know with foam will act as floatation for cover and I would add small bubble plastic with ca for more insurance for the rest of cover. Doing great, catch you later.

[timtana]

Yeah Norwest, I ordered the stinger, trim tabs and a bunch of other goodies today, busy work week this week and out of town on Friday but back on Saturday and hope to get some done on the boat, the battery and ESC order are going to be a little longer to arrive but I have enough to keep me busy.

[timtana]

Well I have resumed after some busy days and have progressed quite a bit on the boat.
Got some parts in, installed the new stinger, mounted the motor, servo, turn fins, ESC, Transmitter, started on the Battery Mount and installed the new antenna, I am missing a few connectors and a plug for the charger that I ordered yesterday but I think I will be ready to get her wet by next weekend time permitting. Here are some pictures let me know what you think.IMG_3400.jpgIMG_3401.jpgIMG_3408.jpgIMG_3412.jpgIMG_3413.jpg

[timtana]

I also took and old shaving kit bag and made it into a charger/battery case.IMG_3417.jpg

[Norwest]

Picture with lipos in, does it balance at 30%. You did an excellent so far and all looks great. Main concern is where the water cooling hose enters hull, but you've done great so far and you'll come up with something.

[timtana]

Yes the hull does balance at 30 percent, I have left room on my battery mount to adjust forward or back, thanks for the encouraging words!IMG_20140420_111959.jpgoh yeah the water intake is something I am deciding on right now it is thru the old nitro exhaust holes but I will soon be closing them up!

[Norwest]

Exhaust holes can be filled with epoxy separately and then drilled and then use Goop to seal them. Another way is to use epoxy with micro-balloons which is white and mix thoroughly and paintable. When it comes water testing, have stringer be neutral and go from there. Also double tape the cover as that is super important.