Shockwave 36 Brushless Conversion

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  • myskiis2fast4u
    Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 56

    #31
    Thanks for that.... I guess I should be able to tell from the infamous "brushless whine" where the RPM range is and how much the motor is loaded from the prop spin / water bite. Good points made. I have 3 water pickups 2 on the ESC and 1 on the motor and my esc / motor have never been over 95*, but my batteries were definitely hotter. I too have encountered some unstable conditions directly corelated to battery position!... Now that I like and know I'm keeping the setup, I have to do some mods inside the hull to lower the batteries! Right now I've been putting the batteries on top of the wood motor mount frame and I think I can lower that a bit.

    Anxiously awaiting parts now!!!!! damm flexi......................................

    Comment

    • blackcat26
      High Speed Junkie
      • Sep 2009
      • 1598

      #32
      I removed the stringers from just the motor section of the hull so I could get the batts as low as possible. Then slapped down a pc. of carbon fiber. This helped it's "shiftyness" tremendously. My flex shaft is the factory one and I have had no trouble from it at all. One thing I also did was drill the mounting holes out a little bigger on the strut bracket to give me a little adjustment. My shaft from the factory was a little bound up and this helped it out. Also check your trim tabs. Mine are set level with the same contour as the hull (may have had to drill those holes a little bigger also don't remember exactly). She runs pretty dry but fairly fast as well.
      FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

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      • beau0090_99
        Member
        • Dec 2009
        • 37

        #33
        I'd recommend an Eagletree V3 datalogger with a GPS and a Brushless RPM sensor. This is a must in Electric anything. I use mine extensively in my airplanes to find out the right prop. I have the RPM, and a Temp sensor. With the logger itself, you get the voltage and current sening inside the unit. Looking at this data will tell you how your different props are responding and how much current you are running through your system.

        As to the Prop. The 1.9 diameter in inches is the same as 48 mm (1.9 *25.4 mm/in = 48). The 3.0 is the pitch in inches per revolution, so if you take that and divide it by the 1.9, you get about 1.58 or the pitch ratio. Octura uses the digits after the decimal to denote the first number in the prop i.e. and X447 means it is a 'x' (modified) '4' (1.4 pitch ratio) '47' (47 mm diameter). What you have is close to a 648 (but I am not sure if it is an 'x' or an 'm') The m is a detongued prop, the X is a prop with a large tongue.

        I hope this helps. You have a great boat there. I have an original nitro boat with an m445 and it would be fun to see the side-by-side comparison.
        Regards,
        Curtis

        Comment

        • myskiis2fast4u
          Member
          • Apr 2008
          • 56

          #34
          Wow thanks for all the input!!!! Eventually when i get some more $$$ i want to get a good remote controller with the digital readout.... Im guessing there are more gadgets available that can send live data back from the boat to the user. Would b nice to record and see all of the data to tune this puppy in! For now though ill have to manually check temps!
          Did you have any planning / leveling out issues after pitching the transom??? I have played with the trim tabs extensively and too have found the sweet spot is exactly parallel even with the hull. Cant believe how much of a difference moving them down or up a degree or two matters!!! I just have to drop out the wood in the motor mount to lower those batteries and start from scratch again with balancing. Shouldnt be that hard! I have some sweet pics to add up when i get them off my brothers camera! I have one when the boat decided to barrel roll!!
          Thanks for the input guys! Appreciate it!

          Comment

          • blackcat26
            High Speed Junkie
            • Sep 2009
            • 1598

            #35
            Another point about this boat is hull strength. Forward of the first stringer/bulkhead is weaker than puppy piss. I would put down a good layer or two of glass or carbon. After a few highspeed spills my hull had some serious damage.
            FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

            Comment

            • myskiis2fast4u
              Member
              • Apr 2008
              • 56

              #36
              Really???? wow! I wouldn't want it to Titanic on me! I'm taking the extra floatation out of the bow now to get it cleaned up for some epoxy and glass.

              Comment

              • blackcat26
                High Speed Junkie
                • Sep 2009
                • 1598

                #37
                Remember this boat was built for 30mph or so.....All the weight in the rear of the boat from 2 3s batts and my kb45 is very heavy compared to the front end. The forward most edge of the bulkhead is where I had some cracks.
                FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

                Comment

                • myskiis2fast4u
                  Member
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 56

                  #38
                  Ya true! I got my parts today...that X648 looks almost identical to the stock nitro prop. I'm gonna try that other x440 or x442 that I have first. It makes more sense to let the motor spin then not let it spin because of "prop rot." I probably twisted off the end of the flexi due to too much prop like you said. Been a big help! Thanks! Hopefully I'll get a chance to run this weekend. Cycling the batteries again to hopefully get em back into better shape.

                  Comment

                  • blackcat26
                    High Speed Junkie
                    • Sep 2009
                    • 1598

                    #39
                    What prop have you been running? I think I misread your thread.....
                    FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

                    Comment

                    • beau0090_99
                      Member
                      • Dec 2009
                      • 37

                      #40
                      In my experience, the Prather 230 (basically an X648) cavitated too much and didn't let my nitro boat get into the pipe very much. It may help to go down to an M445, which is perfect for mine. Not sure if you have more torque than the stock nitro on the pipe or not, but a smaller prop might help. Have the datalogger with the RPM sensor and the GPS sensor would give you great feedback. Save up for a very important tool.
                      Curtis

                      Comment

                      • blackcat26
                        High Speed Junkie
                        • Sep 2009
                        • 1598

                        #41
                        I'd start with the 442 and see what happens. I think the 440 is gonna be too small. Mine ran pretty good on the 442 with the blackjack motor in it. Again I got 32mph with 4s and 44mph on 6s. 6s was a little much for that small a motor but I had to try it.
                        FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

                        Comment

                        • Brushless55
                          Creator
                          • Oct 2008
                          • 9488

                          #42
                          how well do these hulls handle?
                          .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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                          • myskiis2fast4u
                            Member
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 56

                            #43
                            It handles ok I guess. I really don't have much to compare it too. From studying and playing around I've found weight distribution to be ***KEY*** to survival. I played around with battery positioning and had drastic stability differences! My most current project is to fit in 6s4p throughout the very bottom of the hull to keep the center of gravity low. This is proven to be a rough task with the Factory bridging setup from proboat! I don't want to cut out their hull bracing in fear of damaging the core structure. Regardless I think for a 10lbs or running equip, wet weight, the boat takes the power well!
                            Attached Files

                            Comment

                            • Brushless55
                              Creator
                              • Oct 2008
                              • 9488

                              #44
                              I see these hulls on eby now and again and thought about picking one up..
                              .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                              Comment

                              • blackcat26
                                High Speed Junkie
                                • Sep 2009
                                • 1598

                                #45
                                i didn't really push mine hard in the turns. The hull is pretty weak and cracks easy with all that weight in it. At least mine did!
                                FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

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