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Hi Shooter, Darryl here. do you make motor mounts , with your laser? if so plz PM me thank u,
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Well, she's come a long way!! Added some final touches to the model including reliefs. They aren't necessarily for weight savings, but for 'aieration', if that is a word? I also added a cut-out for the servo. Lot's of photos to come this weekend I hope! I cut everything last night.Comment
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I cut everything Thurs night and framed it together late Friday night (when everyone was sleeping!
). Hard to believe this is finally becoming reality.
The set-up board with quad rule is an absolute must in my opinion. You can follow every line of the frame to make sure it's square...right back to the transom. From side to side, they sidewalls should be the same distance from the center. I use weights on the sides to adjust until it's perfect and then tack everything in place.Comment
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The limitations of the laser cutter (only 24" length) is not holding me back. These joints are going to be NO PROBLEM. Solid as a rock. I actually did a few break tests and it never broke at the joint.Comment
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Frame complete.Comment
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Here is a comparison to the PT Stealth. The PT is probably one of the best boats for LSH right now, but I think it's just a tad too small for full P Sport. This new boat is just a bit longer and wider, and lower profile. Hopefully with some help from the club guys I can get it tweaked-in to be competitive.Comment
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This photo is for Detox. Thanks for the suggestion. It's going to be a project to get that front nose pc figured out though. The front pc is taller than the whip (i.e. it has more room for batts).Comment
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You haven't slept many hours over the last few days have you? LOL
Later,
BallComment
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ha! Yeah Mike, you know how it is! Little boats somehow aren't on the top of the priority list! I have to BURN THE MIDNIGHT OIL.... fueled only on enthusiasm and Coors Light!
Unfortunately, my original packaging idea isn't going to work. It balances a little ahead of the sponson transom. TOO MUCH WEIGHT UP FRONT! Apparently I went a little too far with the 'cab forward' idea. Oh well, when is the last time you fit everything in and you said 'how can I get more weight aft??'. Motor is going to be moved down a partition. Plenty of room all over and weight will be very evenly distributed. I will be running a Neu 1515-1Y most likely.Comment
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Thanks to Ray's suggestion in another thread, I pre-bend all my wood (Tom, behave yourself). The heat gun works wonders on this.Comment
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How close do you put the heat gun to your wood? (snicker, snicker) An do you use high heat setting or low? In the past I've used hot water to bend wood but, heat gun sounds better. You don't have to wait for the wood to dry your way.
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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Is that a 2030 in the picture or did u make another endbell heatsink?Comment
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Ray - I use the 'low' setting. I fixture the gun upright on the table and hold the wood (convex side down) over the heat. Pull it away from the heat and DONE. Plus, you can reshape it on the fly.
Jimmy - That's the 2030 out of the PT. Same endbell heatsink. I ended up ordering a Leopard 4082 last night from OSE for this boat.Comment
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Some more work done on this. Skinned the sponson sides, ride pads, and bottom.Comment
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Skin done (except the deck). The entire inside is coated with West Systems at this point. I added glass in several locations of importance (transom, sponsons, sides, etc....).
In comparing with the PT, my 4S batts are 3" further forward in this boat (the cab forward idea), causing the CG to be pretty much right on the back of the sponsons. I know somebody that runs VERY WELL like this, but I never figured it out. I will have to shift my motor back a little which might be a good thing (less flex/stuffing tube/drag). Im waiting for my 3" rail motor mount from Jim at Southriver. Should fit nicely with a few rails.
I also created a jig to make turn fins today (ensures the bend is parallel with the boat direction).Comment
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