Pete's Whiplash 20 LSH
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Been there done that, not going that way again. Make them run good first and if it gets a podium placing, then maybe I would go paint crazy. Race boats get dinged.... Decals are much easier to deal with and less heartbreak.
Nortavlag Bulc
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Well, instead of taking one persons advice, I'm going to take EVERYONES! The inside will be done with West Systems (no thinning!) to strengthen joints. The outside will be done with Zpoxy finishing resin to ease sanding and finishing. I think I have just enough of both to finish the job, so it should be perfect. Thanks guys.Comment
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Sponge brushes are working great. No bristles. No mess. A couple guys in our club were suggesting them as well. Thanks.
I started sealing up the inside. I didn't go crazy with the fiberglass. Just in the seams that I thought were critical. Front, Transom, and the sides of the sponsons. I also glassed the bottom of the sponsons.
I have a huge roll of CF that Fred gave me when he destroyed my boat during practice. I was going to use it on the center section, but I just don't think it's necessary. This boat should be plenty strong once I put the CF tube across the battery area. Plus, I've heard strange things with CF and TX/RX signals.Comment
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I made sure the side seam (angled portion) was filled with resin. The rest of the cross braces are forming nice fillets too. I just hope it's wicking underneath. I've been tamping it with the foam brush.Attached FilesComment
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I tend to over-do these turn fin mounts, but I've never had a turn fin fall off! It's 1/4" thick! I scuffed the crap out of the surface and used Zpoxy 30min and glassed the bottom and side.Attached FilesComment
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With a lot of help/input from club members over the years, I finally came up with a turn fin design that works well and is easy to make. All the parts are made of aluminum. The fin is mounted on the inside of the bracket, and the button heads are on the inside as well so not to disturb the spray. This one is a copy of the one I have on my current LSH.Attached FilesComment
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Most of the time the rear mounting surface of sponson is not square to centerline of hull. You can bend this bracket to make sure turnfin is square to hull centerline. I also file an elongated slot in top stern bolt hole of bracket for more angle adjustment...slightly more inward angle will throw spray up and away from hull...too much inward angle can hurt also.
Turn fin adjustment is very important. Allmost as much as a good prop. per: Brian BComment
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Thanks D. Yeah, I struggled with turn fins forever. You're exactly right, the back of the sponson isn't always 90°!! I usually use a long straight edge on the fin and see if it's parallel with the boat direction. Never though of bending the bracket though....I usually just build the sponson up, or add spacers.Comment
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Happy new year! I finally got to that dreaded front piece. Thanks to Detox for posting the dimensions in his build thread...it saved me a TON of work. I cut the 2 and 12 degree angles and rounded the nose. It fits the UL-1 nose piece like a glove! Thanks D! Roughed it up and glued it on with Zpox 30min. There is a 1/16" overhang on the top to match the deck lid.
Getting really excited about this boat now!Comment
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I started cutting the foam for flotation. I used a little exacto saw blade to cut the pieces, and then sanded the faces smooth with the belt sander. Need to sand and shape the tops of the frames for the decking next…
Oh, and I added a bit more epoxy to the tips of the sponsons, for strength and sealing.Attached FilesComment
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