The fittings are just temporarily in place. After the drilling, I still need to epoxy the raw wood to seal it. When the hardware gets mounted for real I use 3M marine silicone to seal everything up. My only concern about permanently attaching anything is knowing that things break, more so it seems for me. Whenever possible I like to give myself an out to replace the busted part.
Rick's Insane Mono 34
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What he means about the rudder Rick is when 'racing' and you turn right all the time you should have the servo rod pull the rudder for the direction you are turning. If it pushes it it can cause fluctuations/flutters in your rudder as opposed to the pull which keeps the rod tight.
Make sense? I did this on the Bling as I do run a course though not racing.Comment
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What he means about the rudder Rick is when 'racing' and you turn right all the time you should have the servo rod pull the rudder for the direction you are turning. If it pushes it it can cause fluctuations/flutters in your rudder as opposed to the pull which keeps the rod tight.
Make sense? I did this on the Bling as I do run a course though not racing.
On the plus side, I thing I'll be able to work the linkage geometry so it will be a straight run and allow me to a use piece of 4-40 stainless rod. Much stiffer.Comment
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354g for the hardware hanging off the transom........not including drive dog, prop shaft and prop.Comment
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Getting bored waiting for parts to arrive. So bored I decided to sharpen the rudder some more and then polish it. It's so sharp now that if you look at it the wrong way, it'll slice off a chunk of skin from your finger..........speaking from experience.
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I had a dialogue with Dr Wayne a few weeks ago and with his recommendations I decided to build my own cap bank. The set-up is as follows with 10awg wire that will connect it to the ESC:
(-)---[470uf]---[470uf]---(+)
(-)---[470uf]---[470uf]---(+)
(-)---[470uf]---[470uf]---(+)
(-)---[470uf]---[470uf]---(+)
The bottom is brushed with plasti-dip just to make sure no arching occurs. I'll heat shrink it before it gets installed.
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nice job
Id run some CA glue around the caps and board interface to hold it all together.
WWayne Schutte PhdCSE BaSE BaEE. Australian, & damn proud of itYOUTUBE
@ 36" H&M Maritmo twin1512/1800 6S1P 88mph @ 40" drag hydro#1 twin 5692 12S1P .....always for fun @Comment
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Slow progress. Year end at work holidays are getting in the way but I did manage to tackle the rails over the last couple of days. I made a 4 sided plywood box to act as a test bed so I could work out all the dimensions and motor angles so any mistakes wouldn't be transferred to the final rails.
I was struggling with how to get the railed perfectly symmetrical. My solution was to mark all the cut lines on one of the rails then through bolt the two rails together for cutting. The holes for the bolts would later be used as the centre holes for wire/tube passages or holes just to lighten the overall rail structure.
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Then it was off to the table saw, belt sander and drill press. The pieces were glued with G/Flex thickened with cabosil (West Systems calls it 406 colloidal silica). The end product turned out better than I expected being the first set of rails I've built.
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The first step down after the motor mount is a small "shelf" where the cap bank will be mounted. The batteries will tuck under the shelf. The battery tray itself will be one piece of ply with cut-outs on either side as well down the middle for velcro try-downs. The shelf and tray will be mounted after the rails are bonded to the hull.Comment
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Bonding the rails...........My plan was to use G/Flex thickened with cabosil to add strength to the bond as well as to prevent runoff during curing. On the inboard side of the rails I was going to build a generous fillet of G/Flex and cabosil. On the outboard side of the rails, I was thinking of using 4mm CF rod bonded with G/Flex as a fillet. Some additional bonding to the hull will take place through the battery tray once it's installed.
I can't see these coming loose unless a major chuck of the hull comes with it. What do you think?Comment
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Well........I forgot to account for the fact the cooling jacket adds 10mm diameter to the motor. Then in the process of building a new set of rails, I had a argument with my table saw and lost. It bit me pretty hard and I was fortunate that it was mostly flesh it got a hold of. A trip to Emergency and six stitches later and my thumb will be OK just of no use to me for the new few weeks.
I'm getting pretty good at doing things with one full hand and one hand without the use of an opposable thumb. Finished the new set of rails. I also remembered to mock up the servo and cut an opening in the rail for it. Just need to sand it down a little.
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I then bent, cut and fiddled with the stuffing tube. Everything is dry fit/aligned and ready for bonding.
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It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I upgraded the fittings for the HRC cooling jacket to high flow 5mm ones. I just tapped the hole for 5mm and used JB Quick to seal and lock their orientation for optimal cooling tube routing.Last edited by rickwess; 12-24-2013, 11:15 PM.Comment
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Sorry to hear the accident, man, that was a close call. Hope your hand will recover soon!
Motor mount rail looks good, both versions!
I am really liking your approach, keep us posted!
Happy Holidays!
Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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