Rick's Insane Mono 34

[rickwess]

Answers:

1. Scrim is a cotton thread that is sewn into the CF cloth. It keeps the fibres from shifting/separating if you need to work the cloth to get it into the right position.
2. Carbisol is a fumed silca power. It's a thixotropic filler and has the finest particle I have EVER seen and adds virtually no weight. It provides bonding strength to the resin. You mix it into your resin until you get the desired consistency. In my case for bonding, I add it until I get a thick peanut butter like consistency.

[Fella1340]

Thanks for clearing that up. I only have milled fiberglass to use at the moment and this sounds much better. Gotta get some! Its funny that with all the cf and different fabrics I have bought I have never come across scrim. I really like the idea that it helps hold the weave in place. The latest cf I found out about is procarbon fiber. It has a layer of resin on one side and lets you mqke cuts without any tapes. The resin holds the weave together and doesnt require an autoclave or heat sorce for curing. coat the area with resin and lay your cut piece onto it and do the finish wet out. I will be trying it after I run through my stock here. Keep up the good work!

[rickwess]

Time to foam. Not something I take lightly, so I use some scrap pieces of PEX wrapped up tight in packing tape to reinforce the hull.
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I used 6 smaller pours to fill the bow. The small pours allow me to ensure the foam expands evenly. I also use my "meat hook" clamps to provide a little extra reinforcement as the foam expands. You can feel the heat of the chemical reaction so you know exactly where to grip.
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Then some sanding once the foam cured. BTW, the foam added 133g to the hull.
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Finally, I finished it off with CF cloth.
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Current hull weight:

• Hull = 1497g ---> +154g

[Fella1340]

Nice clean look, coming along real nice

[rickwess]

Moving slow now as I'm waiting for parts to cross the border. Year end for work is getting in the way as well.

Finished off the retaining clip for the front of the hatch. Not sure what I want to do with the rear of the hatch yet. I don't want to drill unnecessary holes in the hatch. Hockey shin pad tape has never let me down, so maybe nothing for now. May I'll try some small rare earth magnets a 3/8" round by 1/10" thick magnet can hold 5lbs. One in each rear corner will be pretty solid when combined with the tape. I just have to post a couple of pacemaker decals on the hatch.


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Just did a little clean up of the inside. Sanded it all down lightly with 120 grit and put the lightest coat of resin possible. Just enough to get a uniform finish over the entire area.

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[srislash]

ThAt is looking great Rick.

[rickwess]

There has bee a change of plans on how I'm going to mount the motor. The smallish floor mounted aluminium rails just didn't look and feel right when I was laying things out. I've decided to build a set of 4" wooden rails instead. I mocked up a set of rails over the weekend using scrap 3/16" ply just to see how well I could fit it into the hull. Between my table saw and bench belt sander, I could match the hull angles very well and get a tight fight. The height and length are way off but I did learn that 3/16" ply might be too thin. I'll use 1/4" in the production version.
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It turns out that Dave at HRC has a very nice rail mount for the TP 4060. It's on order and unfortunately, I'm at the mercy of USPS and cross border shipping.......over Christmas to boot.
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For those that saw my "stinger placement in a mono" thread. I did do some layout work since I have all this free time waiting for parts. It looks like a piece of graph paper, but I have parallel lines on there to mark stinger, trim tabs and turn fins locations. I also have the rail locations marked so I don't run into interference issues on the inside.

One of my goal is to use a piece of stainless threaded rod for the rubber linkage. Difficult to bend properly, so I need to really plan the mounting location of the servo and rudder so I can get a straight run between the two. Based on my transom scribbles, I think I can do it.
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[Vortech C5]

Time to foam. Not something I take lightly, so I use some scrap pieces of PEX wrapped up tight in packing tape to reinforce the hull.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]108498[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]108499[/ATTACH]

I used 6 smaller pours to fill the bow. The small pours allow me to ensure the foam expands evenly. I also use my "meat hook" clamps to provide a little extra reinforcement as the foam expands. You can feel the heat of the chemical reaction so you know exactly where to grip.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]108501[/ATTACH]

Then some sanding once the foam cured. BTW, the foam added 133g to the hull.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]108502[/ATTACH]

Finally, I finished it off with CF cloth.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]108503[/ATTACH]

Current hull weight:

• Hull = 1497g ---> +154g

EXCELLENT job!!! WOW! Not very many people take the time to do a floatation job like you. Outstanding!!!!! Keep up the great work. This thing is going to be killer!

Ray

[rickwess]

Canada Post was good to me today. A large shipment from OSE arrived. Although, after only a few hours I managed to use up all the parts.

First step was to shorten the stinger by about 1/2" and rudder blade by 1". The workbench belt sander made quick work of cleaning up the stinger and sharpening the rudder. Then some 1000 grit sandpaper to polish it all up. After stabbing myself a few times on the turn fins, I thought I better cover the pointy ends with tubing.
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You may wonder I only have one water fitting installed. Funny story........it seems that when I reinforced the transom, it became too thick for the threads of through hull fitting to catch the nut on the inside. I rememebred to get 1" bolts to replace the 3/4" bolts that came with the hardware, but just didn't think about the fittings. I needed to take out a 1/2" drill bit and countersink the inside for the nut. With the nut in the recess I was forced to use some needle nose pliers to tighten the fitting. I forgot the fitting was just thin aluminium and crushed it a little. On the 2nd fitting I wizened up and fit inserted a drill bit into he fitting before I used the pliers on it. I'll have to add the part to my next order.
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Well, that's it until the motor mount arrives. The one good thing about waiting for parts is it gives me time to plan the next steps over and over and over again.

[srislash]

So I guess you need a new fitting then Rick? Them things happen. Lookin' good bud.

[Greg Schweers]

I don't know if you're building a sport boat or a race boat, when I build a race boat I try to keep it as simple as possible. For example: Your water inlet, I would have just drilled and tapped it. I know you had the carbon fiber added to the bottom, but that was a waste of time. These boats are built strong. I flipped this boat probably 2 dozen times at 60+ mph and there's not a scratch on the boat. What you did to the transom was way overkill. Whenever possible, you should have the rudder be pulled to turn right. No matter what people say, weight is your enemy! I know you're going to build this boat any way you want, but I had a hand in designing this boat and Mark, Tony and I tested it numerous times to get the right setups. You can try those turn fins, but personally I don't think they'll work. All the monos I own basically have rectangle turn fins. My 34 also likes a tapered rudder. In fact, this week I just stripped everything out of it, switching to a wire drive, motor forward, wet well and a regular strut. I hope you have enough motor to pull this boat.

[4sdash]

man this boat is really coming together rather nicely . also you have given me ideas for my own boat build thank you

[tlandauer]

Nice build!
I no longer try to fumble with the hex nut of fittings any more, be them water fittings or antenna fittings, I either apply CA and just glue them or if weather is warm I will JB weld them, once I got the hang of it, I do a neat job, no visible blob from the outside. I never would dismantle or retrofit a boat, I don't see why not to permamnently secure these things, even if one just screws them in, one still has to apply some sort of sealant to water proof them, thus making them non removeable anyhow.
JMO.

[srislash]

I am in agreeance here. Same with antenna tube mount. Thread it in, Loctite,CA,or resin. All work fine.

[rickwess]

I don't know if you're building a sport boat or a race boat, when I build a race boat I try to keep it as simple as possible. For example: Your water inlet, I would have just drilled and tapped it. I know you had the carbon fiber added to the bottom, but that was a waste of time. These boats are built strong. I flipped this boat probably 2 dozen times at 60+ mph and there's not a scratch on the boat. What you did to the transom was way overkill. Whenever possible, you should have the rudder be pulled to turn right. No matter what people say, weight is your enemy! I know you're going to build this boat any way you want, but I had a hand in designing this boat and Mark, Tony and I tested it numerous times to get the right setups. You can try those turn fins, but personally I don't think they'll work. All the monos I own basically have rectangle turn fins. My 34 also likes a tapered rudder. In fact, this week I just stripped everything out of it, switching to a wire drive, motor forward, wet well and a regular strut. I hope you have enough motor to pull this boat.

It's 100 % a sport boat.

I'm not sure what you mean about having the rudder pulled to the right. The way it is now the linkage will pretty much be running right above the rails. Based on other builds I've seen, I'm further right than most.

The rudder is tapered rudder, but the SpeedMaster rudder was too long at over 6". The only smaller rudder had single water pickups and I wasn't interested in that. Cutting it down was the right thing to do.

I have the rectangular turn fins and can add them any time I think they are needed. The important part was getting the right size bracket installed. To be honest though, with my Revolt I had the fins up as high as they would go and swept back. Basically as little rudder in the water as possible and that is what worked best for the boating I do.

The motor is a TP4060 2040kv so lots of go power. I know weight is my enemy, but I do put it in perspective of 1100g of batteries, 500g motor, 100g ESC, 90g servo plus all the hardware mounted on the transom (I should weigh that). Is what I did unnecessary, probably, but a waste of time, no. If I survive one submerged hit without transom damage, it's well worth it. So many obstacles at the lake that you lose focus of when fixating on the boat itself.

Any and all suggestions are more than welcome