1515 1y custom cooling jacket

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  • TheShaughnessy
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Mar 2011
    • 1431

    #1

    1515 1y custom cooling jacket

    Was just going to order the hrc but my buddy is a plumber and had a bunch of pipe laying around. I got 2" scrap off of him for free and already had the brass. After a little modifying I got the piece to fit with just a 2 mm gap all the way around. I cut two little pieces to use as shims on the front and back and also to allow the Cu to be in direct contact with the motor can for max heat transfer. I used silicon to seal it up. Just tested this morning and no leaks. Now all I have to do is install it and see if it cools better then AL. I couldn't extend it all the way to the wires because the extra diameter from the jacket would have been in the way with the mount I'm using.

    Opinions welcome
    Attached Files
  • boredom.is.me
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 595

    #2
    Nice. Pure Al is a much better heat conductor than Cu. Although this is really simple, design might be a huge factor. It's very pretty.

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    • boredom.is.me
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2009
      • 595

      #3
      My bad, I was thinking of brass. Al is much better than brass.

      Comment

      • TheShaughnessy
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Mar 2011
        • 1431

        #4
        Yeah copper is one of the best conductors, only slightly better then AL though, then it goes silver and diamond being the best

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        • ron1950
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2010
          • 3024

          #5
          hey...if it works go for it....looks good to me
          MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
          74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...

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          • Shooter
            Team Mojo
            • Jun 2009
            • 2558

            #6
            Very very cool. If it is in contact, you will get a little conductive transfer to the copper. The water will be removing both heat from the motor can directly AND the copper that has aborbed heat via conduction.

            I saw a helix milled into the ID of the can somewhere. The ID of the cooling can was in contact with the motor and the water would flow around the helical path.

            The typical cooling cans that we have are rather pathetic (flow efficiency wise). In fact, I've seen some inputs right next to the outputs. The water is basically flowing in and out and not getting around the motor. Also, very important to have your output on TOP!!

            Comment

            • TheShaughnessy
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Mar 2011
              • 1431

              #7
              Yep outlet is at the top of the motor. Motor is on an angle so I ended up using the rear nipple as the outlet so all the air gets pushed out and the jacket fills all the way with water.

              I thought about rifling it or something to get the water to swirl or whatever but didn't think it would do much if anything at all

              Comment

              • properchopper
                • Apr 2007
                • 6968

                #8
                The typical cooling cans that we have are rather pathetic (flow efficiency wise). In fact, I've seen some inputs right next to the outputs. The water is basically flowing in and out and not getting around the motor. Also, very important to have your output on TOP!!


                Excellent observation - You're so right. I routinely use larger-flow fittings and since I'm drilling/re-tapping I'll often move the inputs to a better place - you can see the plugged-off original input hole with the brass plug (the input is now on the bottom rear of the jacket [not seen] )

                DSC04682.JPG

                Another situation is that the space between the output fitting and the absolute front of the can can house an air bubble. This area on spec motors where the wires enter the endbell is the hottest part and needs the most cooling to avoid meltdown

                DSC04678.JPG


                I know about this "air bubble void"; on my motorcycle with the gas tank angled upward and the filler neck back some, the space between the filler neck and the front of the tank doesn't ever fill with gas (bad picture but you get the idea)

                DSC04685.JPG


                I've often thought how informative it would be on this topic to get a clear water jacket (Ettie has them) and pump water through them with dye injected to see the actual flow path. Hmmmm...









                Originally posted by Shooter
                Very very cool. If it is in contact, you will get a little conductive transfer to the copper. The water will be removing both heat from the motor can directly AND the copper that has aborbed heat via conduction.

                I saw a helix milled into the ID of the can somewhere. The ID of the cooling can was in contact with the motor and the water would flow around the helical path.


                The typical cooling cans that we have are rather pathetic (flow efficiency wise). In fact, I've seen some inputs right next to the outputs. The water is basically flowing in and out and not getting around the motor. Also, very important to have your output on TOP!!
                2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
                2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
                '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

                Comment

                • Shooter
                  Team Mojo
                  • Jun 2009
                  • 2558

                  #9
                  Nice work moving the input!

                  Not quite a 'clear water jacket', but it proves the point about the air bubble at least!! First photo is a top exit. Second photo is a side exit.

                  TopOutlet.jpgSideOutlet.jpg

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