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I forget what size brass tube, but I just slipped antenna tube inside. Well it didn't just slip in, I had to stretch it to shrink some but I figure with grease inside that it may make for a sturdier and better lubricated housing. They will also get glued in place on final instal. And thanks for the complement, many "ideas" have been forged from many "head scratchings" lol. :)
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I have to go to Florida for a week, yea work sucks! It's been cold here and today it's freezing rain and so foggy that I can't see the neighbors house. Hopefully I'll be able to wear shorts there! I have some updates and pics to post, so when I'm down there or waiting in airport ill have something to do and post some more build progress. And when I get back things should start to come together. Then I'll need some help from you all on painting.Comment
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Painting is super easy if you're not looking for a crazy unique air brushed finish. My suggestion would be to prime, paint, apply stickers and clear coat. You can achieve a finish you'll be very proud of with spray cans albeit high quality spray paint with of course final wet sanding and wax.
**Cooper I posted pictures of my FC super daytona and also my smaller mhz skater both boats were painted using spray cans I posted a thread in this build forum if you'd like to take a look. Once my boats are completed I really beat on them so having spent little on my finish I don't care if my boat smacks into things.Comment
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For the motor mounts
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Just cleaning the mounting holes
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The photos don't really show well but the 2.5 plate got covered front and back with cf cloth and then a 1.5 mm plate was epoxied to the front as not to lose the flat mounting area.
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Just wanted to show some soldering of the bullets. On the motors the 8mm bullets look big but there should be some good amps running through and I just install 8 mm on all my stuff so I can interchange easily. Same with speedos and batteries. ( unless it's for small stuff,,,). The tin foil is just so the solder doesn't run out the holes in the bullet, put shiny side towards bullet, comes off better. Clean the Rosen, flux off and shrink. Te motor wires I had to build up with shrink so the wrap for the bullets would fit tight on wire. And I usually just pull some of the wire sheathing up the wire then solder. When done you can just work the wire sheathing back down. I use silver solder and make sure all the joints are solid.
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The stuffing tube, I tried to do this the scientific way. In order t have an idea of the angle the motor was I simply shrink wrapped some small brass rod to a 3/16 motor shaft. This was able to be the right height to get the straight line of the motor shaft to extend through the stinger bulkhead. Then just find the angle. I didn't have the right measuring tools so I just used a depth gauge to get a parallel.
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I measured 11 degrees, estimated 10 degrees when setting motor so I wasn't off much. This Is a twin so I did make a template so I can duplicate the other driveline.
When I make the bend I do keep the liner and the flex shaft in the tube. There are many different ways to bend, a pic f some of the bending tools, and yes a football, my favorite. You can adjust the pressure and can use different areas to get different radius bends. I did consider not using Teflon liner but after some thought I just decided that I would. One of the most important parts of the stuffing tube for me is getting lined up. I make sure that the flex cable runs straight for at least an inch before any bend. To do this I used 3/16 shaft and slid consecutive larger tubes over to get the final stuffing tube diameter inside. And I will use that when the tube gets glassed in Then there is a near perfect alignment.
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A pic from the backside, yes the stuffing tube will be cut off even with the transom. As these stingers don't allow the tube to intrude. And I use some shrink wrap to make a little better seal between stuffing tune and shaft. Keeps some of the grease from comming out. Not worried about water, if water comes up it should be a good indicator that it needs greased.
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Hi there
I ended up finding out that heatshrink around the brass and stuffing tube didnt work well.
I ended up using Silicone water tubing insteadComment
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I have used shrink wrap before to keep water out but unfortunately it didn't hold up well. Kintec racing offers 8mm outside diameter tubing with 4mm inner diameter, for a .187 flex running teflon you can't get a better fit. Plus Jan offers a lot of different colors, should be fun selecting, the 4mm inner diameter tubing is good stuff. Anyway if shrink wrap has worked for you awesome, looks like I'm doing something wrong and it wouldn't be the first time! Once again build looks great. Posted up a link if you're unfamiliar with kintec and site layout. Cooling lines really influence how the finished boat looks, I have white lines and they're killing the look of my big boat right now.
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Yes I knw kintec, jan, about an hour away from home. Yea the shrink wrap works for a short amount of time. I just slip it over the stuffing tube and when I shrink it I usually go back to the cable side and expand it slightly. More of a grease trap for me than anything. If water is comming up the tube then something is wrong, lack of grease, loose bushings ect,,,, but at the same time having grease inside the hull isn't a bad thing in my opinion lol,,,better than water. I've never used the cooling lines you talk about but know of them. When I get back home I'm going to have to tackle the cooling system. There will be at least two bottom pickups maby four, dedicated motor and speedos. So there is going to be alot of lines running around, something pleasant to look at will be nice. Only thing I don't like about those castle speedos is I wish the heatsink tubing would be farther spaced to allow for larger diameter lines and most importantly clamps. I've never taken one apart but have thought about installing a new style heatsink. Only time I've seen inside of one of these is when I had one literally blow up and it looked like the fets are thermal glued to the heatsink. If any of you know how to remove the heatsink from castle ice controllers let me know. If it can be done fairly easily then I might just do that and make some modified heatsinks. Would rather have the cooling run in direct contact with the aluminum.
And I will check into that silicone for a stuffing tube tourniquette. Thanks irb247.Comment
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Ok I'm board, I ran out of things to do! I'm stuck in Orlando airport. Again waiting on a delay, the receptionist just announced that our flight will be late again. Delay due to matainence issue, that our plane has not even taken off from the airport it is comming from!!!! Ahhhhhhhhhhhh I hate flying!!! I need to make more money so I can have a private jet or bring work to me!!!! Oh well I'll just have to tell the wife I was board in the airport that's why in a few days all these packages are showing up at the door!!! Have to do some online boat shopping!!!Comment
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Nothing beats coming home to a bunch of new parts to open. BTW Cooper gave my super daytona its maiden today in 30 degree weather I got more than a few perplexed looks as I unloaded my kayak from my car for rescue missions. Have you decided on your paint scheme?Comment
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