35" DF Pirate 1st build.

[KartRacer]

Well, My new 35" Pirate arrived today along with the drive hardware. I will try to lay out the rudder, strut, trim tabs and turn fins this weekend. The process to install will have to wait until I receive the CF/Kevlar to re-enforce the hull. Turned out to be a challenge to locate the product. I located a source for West Products Epoxy and CF/ Kevlar on the web.
I phone pictures are proving to be difficult to upload. Is there an easier way than to email to my server and upload?
Anyway I'll try to post progress, which I anticipate to be a little slow do to work demands.

[tlandauer]

wishing you a great build. It is exciting to dive into one's first build!
Best of luck!

[KartRacer]

Thanks tlandauer
Yes, I'll have to controll the excitement so I am thorough on the build.

[KartRacer]

I ordered west products epoxy and carbon fiber/ Kevlar from:
http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html today. They seemed knowledgeable of our hobby and very helpful.
Also picked up brass tube and plate to build the flooded stuffing tube. I'll solder the interior connection for stability and epoxy the brass plate as a mount.
Wondered if the transom should be re-enforced with, brass plate, aluminum plate or light ply with CF/Kevlar,epoxy?
Steve is out of the Leopard 4082 and will have some in a couple weeks. It will take me that long to get the hull ready to use those items anyway.

[Alexgar]

Cool I was looking for this build thread since we discussed the setup

[LarrysDrifter]

The transom comes stock with a doubler installed. No need for further re inforcement, unless you just want to pretty it up.

[LarrysDrifter]

You can also try www.kershawdesigns.com for your motor. Ive gotten a couple from him when OSE was out of stock.

[KartRacer]

Should I backup the bolts with plate or something, or will washers be plenty.

[Alexgar]

I like washers or t-nuts

[KartRacer]

Oh yeh, forgot about t-nuts, they work great. I still have inventory of those from the airplane days or should I pick up S/S because of the water?

[Alexgar]

Ss everything rust when around water

[KartRacer]

Yeh, figured that as I was typing. I'll pick those up in the morning.

[KartRacer]

Build Pictures with questions?

Stinger 1.jpgTransom layout 1.jpgTransom.jpgServo angle.jpg

Hello
After getting some yard work done I finally got a start on my build.

I drew a layout of the transom with the turn fin, stinger , rudder and trim tabs. I do not know the proper placement of these and am working from pictures here on the forum. Opinions are welcome.

Stinger is the only item placed and from suggestions and directions it is 3mm above hull and 3/32 to the port (right), I believe is the correct term.

I have a picture of the inside transom with the composite re-enforcement. Will this accept the T-nuts or should I laminate some light ply for the nuts?

The servo mount will be at angle because it is a deep V, should I make a mount to level it or is the angle ok?

There is plenty of room for the two 3S cells to go on the bottom of the V in line, which would make them lower in the hull. I am thinking that this will make setting the hull COG impossible and they will have to be side by side in front of the motor.

I was going to build a flooded tube system but find this stinger design is not set up for that type of install. I have purchased the tubing to build it as a flooded and can still do so. Opinions here please.

The carbon fiber battery trays have several pieces of CF that look as if they are standoffs. What is the normal install layout of these trays?

Thanks in advance.
Special Thanks to Scott T
His build thread provided valuable information.

[Jason4636]

I might build one of these this winter. I'm going to follow this build

[tlandauer]

I think this being the Laborday weekend, not many people are reading. I will give you my $0,02 woth of opinion, I hope better/more educated opinions and ideas than mine would provide you with enough heads-up.
Trim tabs, most people mount them: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ng-to-be-flush
Your turn fin brackets could go higher, remember, the fins are needed while the boat leans into a turn. if the brackets are too low they will only add more drag. I see most of the builds where the brackets are mounted higher than where you indicated.
The transom doubler on DF is quite strong, I have only used washers, if you are laminating a light ply, I would back out the stinger nuts and do the entire transom, I like a flat surface myself. I did that with my MHZ Lizard Xtreme.
I have not done a flooded tube, but you are right to realize that the set up is for strut, the strut can go up and down in addition to angle which is the only thing a stinger is capable of. I bought a DF 26 from a well respected member here at the Forum, I must say this design works wonders.
If you mount the servo at an angle, keep in mind the arch of travel. Allow lateral movement of the rudder rod.
Where is your motor? I like the batteries infront of the motor on the V. ( one on each side) Provided your motor is far back enough so you have the correct COG when the batteries are infront. I personally prefer this over where the batteries are outside of the motor mount rail.
The carbon battery mount standoff---you place them under the trays so you can loop velcro underneath the tray, it is supposed to raise enough of the tray so the velcro can go under. I had probelm with the shape of my hull, had to cut ply wood the same size of the tray and glue the tray with the stand off on the ply wood, then affix the ply wood to the hull. Make sure you have enough clearance from the stand offs.
Goodluck and have fun, can't wait till you are done!
Cheers!