Would love to see some pics of your build Ray...no matter what stage...
Btw...Mike Hughes (IW forums) has made me a couple of fins...very good work but (no offense meant)...Dick's fins are worth the wait!! Absolutely beautiful!!
That's the guy, I think, Mike Hughes. What is his contact info just in case? I will probably wait for Mr. T's turn fins but, it's good to have a backup. I have Mike's on my PTSS, very nice and came with tuning instructions
That's the guy, I think, Mike Hughes. What is his contact info just in case? I will probably wait for Mr. T's turn fins but, it's good to have a backup. I have Mike's on my PTSS, very nice and came with tuning instructions
Hmmm...I will have to get on my PC for contact info...I will get it for you ....
Just took 1st place at our last D.12 race beating out three JAE's (FE, nitro and twin) with my Rigged Insanity with one of Mike Hughes fins on it!!!
The next Whip 40 i build will have the original Whiplash cowl. Build them liteweight...you can allways add weight later. My Whip 40 is most stable and fun. The larger props are also easier to modify...i like the Octura X series.
I glued the doubler bulkheads together and laid out the main parts. Do you tack it up first including all the sponson framing or can you glue the bottom on with out tacking up all the sponson pieces?
I may take some pics or start my own thread soon.
Did you buy your Speedmaster strut from OSE or direct Rossisales? 1/4" drive or 3/16"? I figure 1/4".
I glued the doubler bulkheads together and laid out the main parts. Do you tack it up first including all the sponson framing or can you glue the bottom on with out tacking up all the sponson pieces?
I may take some pics or start my own thread soon.
Did you buy your Speedmaster strut from OSE or direct Rossisales? 1/4" drive or 3/16"? I figure 1/4".
Ray, do you have the instructions? I can email them to you if you don't. You would be on step 6 and you should have everything dry fitted except for the outside pieces of the sponsons.
STEP #5: Using the following picture for reference, dry fit all the pieces together to check fitment. Sand or adjust anything to ensure a good fit. Keep this in mind when putting on the front formers, the bottom of the formers between the engine rails will always be flush with the bottoms of the engine rails.
STEP #6: Now measure from the front tip of the engine rail back to the opposite corner (diagonally) of the transom. Do this on both sides. These measurements should be the same, meaning the boat is square! Once you have done this, start tacking the boat together with CA to hold things in place. Do not completely glue the pieces, use just enough glue to hold things together. We will epoxy the joints at a later step. Also using some scrap ply glue triangle pieces in the corners where the sides meet the transom. You can see these in the following photo! This gives this area much more strength than just that small butt joint. We will come back later and epoxy it all together.
If they are different from Blazers website sure I'll take them. Your first 2 pictures help a lot! since the manual shows an old version or a Whip21?? The sponson bulkheads are different from instructions but, same as yours. Seeing the bottoms of the un-skinned sponsons would have been a help but, you are done already. It's not rocket science and I've built a 21 before so, I'll get it.
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