Getting closer. Do you have a shot of the front of the sponsons? That was the toughest part of the build. I raced a club member on Monday, he had a gas rigger. Not sure if he was toying with me, but he would pull on me in the turns and I was able to pull him in the straights. He ended up getting caught in my prop wash and flipped, was a blast racing! I at one point hit a buoy and flipped but landed upright and was able to keep going.
Whiplash Sport 40 Build
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I have been away on vacation so very little time to work on hull. I will try to complete cowl this weekend. Oscarel has given me some tips on how to mount cowl for easier taping (notice unique taping area of Oscars Yellow hull).Last edited by detox; 09-15-2012, 10:07 AM.Comment
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I completed the two front cross pieces that mount between cowl and sponsons. I tried to shape them to hopefully add a little more down force.Comment
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I cut the cowl for easier taping. Waiting for epoxy to cure.
I used 3/8" bass wood for taping area. Using compass I traced contour of deck onto wood, then cut out with band saw.Comment
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I had this cowl laying around a couple of years so I think I finally put it to good use The standard Whiplash 20 cowl would have looked good also, but that would have cost me another $60.00. Tonight I will seal exterior wood using Z Poxy finishing resinComment
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I am going to try clear coating, then use color over certain areas. This should be lighter in weight than using primer and paint. Here is another interior shot (6s for oval racing, 8s for saw)Last edited by detox; 09-24-2012, 11:20 AM.Comment
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Thanks Oscar. I practiced spraying clear on bottom of hull. Its not perfectly smooth, but it is sealed atleast. I will spray top side in a couple days.
I thinned the high solids clear more than recommended with reducer because of my smaller 1mm paint tip and to prevent extra weight added.Attached FilesComment
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After priming I noticed this (hand layed) cowl has LOTS of pin holes. The holes are small air bubbles trapped in resin when hatch was molded. Usually these holes or craters are only found on surface and do not go all the way thru.
Vacuum bagged fiberglass usually has way less voids or air bubbles in fiberglass.
I remember a trick Phil Thomas taught me (may have been raptor347).
"Using sharp Exacto knife open up all pin holes larger. Then smear spakling compond into all holes. I use the DAP brand in small tube. The spakling is lots easier to sand than filler. Lightly block sand with 220 then reprime".Last edited by detox; 09-28-2012, 04:38 PM.Comment
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I decided to paint hull Yellow (lack of imagination). I scuffed the urethane clear then then sprayed urethane paint directly over without priming. I hope paint bonds well...especially around taping areas.Last edited by detox; 10-03-2012, 09:10 PM.Comment
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