41" Delta Force Racing Build - Nitro to Electric

[martin]

With the motor that high you have to watch the sudden bend or curve you will have at the stinger end of the flex to get the stinger set at 0 degrees or if you need a bit of positive angle on the strut. The builds ive seen with a 56 series motor in these hulls have either had custom mounts made to get the motor lower or they have fitted the motor much further foward, which reduces the flex angle & they fitted the foward batteries to the rear of the hull.

[Drax21]

The angle for the flex is good. That should no problem. In a cat with single engine the angle would be much bigger.

If your eninge mount would have been smaller, the engine would have been lower, but from your pictures I really see no option
to get the engine lower. Unless its not a problem for you to lower the slot on the front even more.
If im correct then the bolt that is going into the motormount holds only the lower part of the motormount?
The upper part is hold to the bottom part by the 2 bolts op top of each side?

If so then you could lower down the slot in the front and back even more, position engine to lowest point, take it out, and fix the bolts on the side.
Then glue the carbon mount in place and if you would need to take out the engine you would remove the top bolts?

Hope my explanation is understandable

Yes that makes sense. You are correct the bolts hold only the lower parts so if I lowered the mount or the bolt slots I would probably end up putting resin on them but that wouldn't matter much as the motor can pop out by the upper part. I think it looks ok at the moment though and I believe it is good to have some angle instead of near none?

On another note. Been working on my battery pads.
DSC_2460.jpg

[Drax21]

With the motor that high you have to watch the sudden bend or curve you will have at the stinger end of the flex to get the stinger set at 0 degrees or if you need a bit of positive angle on the strut. The builds ive seen with a 56 series motor in these hulls have either had custom mounts made to get the motor lower or they have fitted the motor much further foward, which reduces the flex angle & they fitted the foward batteries to the rear of the hull.

I can customize the mount so that the bottom the the motor will nigh on touch the floor and reduce the bend or curve greatly. I was thinking then, that I would just run a straight piece of brass tube to it. My batts will go in front and behind either side but inline with the motor. That should keep everything central. How does this sound?

[Remmie81]

You can have a pretty big bend in a flex. Even a S-bend is possible without problems.
This is a picture of how my flex runs at from my H&M Drifter XL

http://www.x-ray99.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Remmie/Drifter-XL/DSCF2042.jpg?m=1305950167

The bend is big but not sharp, the flex runs still smoothly without drag.
As you can see also, there is a long strait towards the strut. That is what Martin is saying: Try to get a part of the brass tube straight to the
flex enters your drive/stinger neutral to prevent stress on the bearings in the drive or stress on the propshaft.
Thats worse then having a (smooth) bend in your brasstube

[Drax21]

You can have a pretty big bend in a flex. Even a S-bend is possible without problems.
This is a picture of how my flex runs at from my H&M Drifter XL

http://www.x-ray99.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Remmie/Drifter-XL/DSCF2042.jpg?m=1305950167

The bend is big but not sharp, the flex runs still smoothly without drag.
As you can see also, there is a long strait towards the strut. That is what Martin is saying: Try to get a part of the brass tube straight to the
flex enters your drive/stinger neutral to prevent stress on the bearings in the drive or stress on the propshaft.
Thats worse then having a (smooth) bend in your brasstube

So where the brass connects to the the stinger I should go straight along the base of the hull then use a slight J bend to bring the flex inline with the collet? Or I can lower the motor and run the brass tube straight from stinger to collet at a 30 degrees angle? Would that be too much angle? Which method is preferred? Many Thanks

[Remmie81]

So where the brass connects to the the stinger I should go straight along the base of the hull then use a slight J bend to bring the flex inline with the collet?

Yes thats it!

Or I can lower the motor and run the brass tube straight from stinger to collet at a 30 degrees angle? Would that be too much angle? Which method is preferred? Many Thanks

1st method is prefferred, however always try to lower the motor as much as possible. this will be good for the CG and the J bend will be smaller

[martin]

Yes the curve needs to be towards the motor end so as to leave a straighter section towards the stinger as in Remmies picture.

[Drax21]

Yes thats it!


1st method is prefferred, however always try to lower the motor as much as possible. this will be good for the CG and the J bend will be smaller

Great I will get working on it. Best way to bend brass tubing?

[Remmie81]

Put the liner in, put the flex in and carfefully bend. I use or my thumbs or my knee to bend it
(when everything is in the brass tubing, theres minimal risk of getting a flat spot in the tube)

[Drax21]

Put the liner in, put the flex in and carfefully bend. I use or my thumbs or my knee to bend it
(when everything is in the brass tubing, theres minimal risk of getting a flat spot in the tube)

No heat?

[Remmie81]

No no heat needed. especially when you put the liner in you dont want to heat it up.
The brass tube in my post above ive bend that without heat. It just takes some muscle power.
(And im an IT guy, so no muscles )

[Drax21]

No no heat needed. especially when you put the liner in you dont want to heat it up.
The brass tube in my post above ive bend that without heat. It just takes some muscle power.
(And im an IT guy, so no muscles )

I just gave it a little muscle lol and yeah it does bend easily. Will post some pics when I'm done.

[Drax21]

Ok how does this look? The bend isn't much as I have lowered the motor down by drilling another hole in the carbon fiber stands.

DSC_2475.jpgDSC_2476.jpgDSC_2477.jpg


I did order a adjustable stuffing tube support from Jan at Kintec racing but it's been 3 weeks and I still haven't got it so I guess I need to make my own. He usually gets my items to me in less than 10 days.

[Chrisg81983]

Tim the bend is not terrible but 2 things concern me the last inch on the coupler end looks a little sharp all of a sudden I don't know if it is the picture making it look that way second the crush points were the brass dimpled by bends might be restricting some what can you get the motor a little farther forward to help get a smoother bend (without messing with cg if battery trays are already fixed) also try filling the brass with sugar or salt pack tight and tape off at each end then bend it this will help keep the brass from deforming

[Drax21]

Tim the bend is not terrible but 2 things concern me the last inch on the coupler end looks a little sharp all of a sudden I don't know if it is the picture making it look that way second the crush points were the brass dimpled by bends might be restricting some what can you get the motor a little farther forward to help get a smoother bend (without messing with cg if battery trays are already fixed) also try filling the brass with sugar or salt pack tight and tape off at each end then bend it this will help keep the brass from deforming

I would say it is the picture. I bent the brass tube first to the original angle which was 30 degrees up and the flat spot occurred(too much pressure in one area) which meant the flex cable was tough to push through. I then decided to lessen the angle by adding a extra slot on the motor mount stands which brings it down to 15 degrees so I bent the tubing back straighter and now the flex slips through easy. It's a smooth curve on one side and the dimples are left on the other side. The motor can't slip back any further now as the motor mounts forming the battery area are directly behind.