I made them from info I read here. I drilled holes through the connectors and put brass tubing through the holes and soldered it all with a blow torch. The parallel connectors worked great at the Winter Warmup races and did not get hot at all.
Yes, That is what I use a mini torch and sold copper wire.
How about the bullet on the cells,
Were they on the cells or did you put them on ?
I would try some other cells to even if there 3s or 2s, Just to see if it does the same thing with the heat.
May be just 1p and check the temps and than try the other one 1p.
Lenny, I put on the bullets. Again, using a mini torch. And I ran two different sets of batteries. The batteries were new or almost new (40C 5,000 MAH). BTW, how does one check to see if they have a "cold solder" or bad solder connection?
Also, I am not sure what you meant about testing the feel of the flex cable with the motor coupler set screws loose? What am I suppose to look for? The cable slides right into the coupler. There is no binding whatsoever.
I will always be learning so I appreciate the help!
Hey man,I'll chirp.A cold solder joint will look dull as opposed to shiny.If what you are soldering moves as it cools it will instantly cause this.I have found this to be the reason for many cold joints(and burnt fingertips).Also if the metals are't clean enough.Most often you can pull them apart too.You can take a boo http://www.google.ca/search?q=cold+s...w=1286&bih=583
As far as the flex goes you should just make sure it runs freely(don't forget to grease) with no sharp bends, as it sounds it is.
Hey, Screwing with some lazy cells sorry.
Yes, Just making sure the flex was free.
That heat is a sign something is wrong,
Did you try to run with one 4s cell, to take the Y out of the picture ?
I didn't try it with one 4S pack. In the meantime I will check the connections on the battery packs. So the heat at the connectors is an indication of something more than just too big of a prop?
Air temp was 85. Water temp 54. The water is still cold here. But it will be an issue this summer. I just thought of something else I need to do. I did not shorten the motor wires from the motor. I used the stock Castle wires and 6.5mm bullet connectors. I also did not shorten the ESC wires to the motor. The stock motor wires are almost 6 inches long and the ESC wires are another 5 inches. I don't know if this had anything to do with the battery connections getting hot but I definately need to shorten those motor wires.
Also what spacing from strut to prop dog do you have, I am like 1/8 ".
It looked short from the pictures.
My wires were all ready cut at the esc so I have total 5" motor to esc and esc batter lead are 5" to,
And my lipo wires are 5" give or take 1".
I try to keep all my wires as short as possible(it makes life easier for your caps).But sometimes you have to wait for that till your comfortable with the setup.Or you could have everything dedicated to one boat.I try to use my batteries for a couple boats.
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