Mystic C5000 1140mm new projet build

[cyprus31]

Today i made a terrible mistake. How stupid. I wanted to change over the props so that the rotation will reverse to try to gain more stability of the hull in water. I forgot though to change over the flex shafts and after the first accelerate I lost one he shafts with the prop.

Now I have to wait for the replacement parts from Germany. By the time they arrive from germany also my new props from uk will arrive as well.

[nata2run]

Nick on the good side....your lucky! It could have gone way worse. Imagine your flex expanded a bit more and broke the drives off the hull? Thats the reason they have to contract as they spin, so you also have to compensate for the contraction by leaving some space between shaft and drive dog. Of cause use a Teflon washer as well. All the strain is now on the motors rear bearing. I'm learning more every day but gee, there is a lot......

[cyprus31]

My latest beauty Mystic is up for sale in the 'Items for sale' forum

[silver]

My latest beauty Mystic is up for sale in the 'Items for sale' forum

he my friend I didnt finiched my boat and you are sale him already, hope not beceaus you dont like him?
I still not jet in the water but find it a great shape of boat and hope he is fun to drive over the water.

[Andrewc]

Hi nata2run

I am very seriously thinking of purchasing the MHZ Mystic 1140 hull and have been researching set ups etc for the last few weeks. Having limited experience in this matter (Budweiser Vantex RTR and my sons Super Surge Crusher) I find the forums fascinating and informative with so many different views.

I´m on a limited budget for this which was I thought a realistic amount at 600 euros. I now realize this is more likely to be double, but blow it I will think of it as a government project!! I note your comment as putting the water pick up close to the back as possible. Why? To me, if you put it close to the front of the hull and shoot the water down the items needing cooling and out the back this would be better (more pressure?) Also I see all the mass produced water inlets have a 90 degree bend in them ie water intake horizontal and the water sent vertically again reducing the effectiveness. I don´t fancy drilling water inlet holes in the hull and note your experience with them in a previous post. Any thoughts?

Down to money I will have to use Leopard motors unless you are happy to suggest a similar priced alternative with Seaking 180amp Esc.

One of the most expensive items to purchase are the MHZ Drives. I have also looked at the Click Drives which are a little dearer but sound better. Any thoughts on which one to buy or do you know of a cheaper alternative. Cheaper is probably the operative word!!

I hope you don´t mind me asking so many questions but you seem very informative on this matter and more ¨middle of the road¨than hell bent on the fastest speed at any consequence.

Many thanks and loved your build.

Cheers

[tiqueman]

Andrew. I built my first HPR 115 on a "budget" and still had $2,000. in it USD once completed.

Leopards are not bad and are budget friendly. I personally as well as many others have been using the TP motors as well with great results.

Pick ups are located near the rear because the rear is in the water the most. If you put them too far forward they will not stay wet enough to push water.

Seaking 180 will work for you. I didn't see in your post, what goals are you looking for? 1600KV and 6S will put you 70mph and run cool on 447s. You can go to 450/3 for more speed. That's the exact set up on one of mine. My best has been mid 70s on 447s. 450s may run for the first time this weekend so I can follow up with results if that happens.

My advice would be stay with the better more expensive drives. There are much cheaper alternatives but you get what you pay for and hulls like MHZ etc deserve nice hardware. You will find the more exensive drives generally come with ball bearings. Lesser quality with bushings and drive itself more prone to damage in a tumble. However if the budget only allows so much, the TFL drives aren't that bad for the price.

Hope some of that helped
Scott

[Andrewc]

Thanks for that Scott. I thought I would need to invest in the drives which I will.

I think I will stick with the leopard1600KV 40 series unless someone suggests something different? Not considered prop size yet.

As for speed, like most people I want it fast but from experience know the problems of over heating etc.

Main problem I have is living in Spain where nobody is interested in fast electric boats. Just call me Billy No Mates lol.

thanks for the advice

[iridebikes247]

click drives are great....heres the thing though. the weakness of the drive is the click unit itself I bent mine in a crash. my fault it was a bad crash. the mhz drives are OK but with the click drives you get full ball bearing and they're easy to replace.

For you Tp 4050L motors, mhz rudder, mhz motor mounts, etc. You'll also want a nice system to hold the batteries in place (think modelbaupirate battery sleds). A 6s pack is essentially a brick and a 100mph crash will show just the kind of force one can exert on battery mounts and etc. $2500 usd would be realistic to get you on the water I think.

[nata2run]

Hi there Andrew. Like most on here would say, go with the drives that matches. MHZ or Click! they are proven to give you the performance the hull is made for. Not to say you can't find something else, but we know that these work. To give you a bit of advice, go for the Carbon/Kevlar hull, its a lot stronger, and you may just regret if you got the glass. If I had to build this one on a budget I would go.

TP 4050 "around 2000-2200kv" on 5s for starter later 6s setup
Seaking 180A or even Turnigy 180A ( I have those T180 in my HPR 115 with LEO 4082 1600kv, on 6s 82.3mph with CNC 448/2

Water pickup 5mm aluminium tube through the hull with a teardrop will cool plenty! Teardrop.JPGWater pipe installed.jpgWaterpipe instaled.jpg

[iridebikes247]

agree with kent, carbon kevlar all the way. made the mistake once of buying a glass hull won't do it again. the setup above kent put together is great I have the same electronics in an mhz nomad it runs extremely cool nothing heats up over 100 degrees in my boat.

[Andrewc]

Hi. Thanks to everyone for all their replies. I had decided on paying the extra for the CK version of the hull. Had considered lining the hull with carbon fiber cloth myself but would probably work out more costly and the finish not as good.

With regard to battery trays I thought it would be best to mount the battery trays in the sponsons thus lowering the centre of gravity. Yes, no? I would like to make these myself from either carbon fiber sheet or polycarbonate sheet. having looked at all the systems ready made I´m still not sure exactly how they work. Has anyone made these themselves and if so in what material?

Still not sure what make or size of motor to purchase. Could anyone suggest a site to look at the TP motors please.

Many thanks to all for their input and help.

[nata2run]

Definetely not polycarbonate for the lipo treys. Good idea is to use the slide system type as it will allow you to adjust center of gravity with one screw. I have some pictures on my web. (See signature below)

[Andrewc]

It all looks stunning. Do you have prices for just the lipo mounts? One big problem is getting it from Australia to Spain. Well not the getting it here just the tax. Got caught with the Vantex hull I bought from Australia 6 week wait in customs and a bill of nearly 40% tax even on the postage!!

Thanks

[nata2run]

Yes, prices are under the store part, slide system. 40% tax sounds crazy. Is that on any amount? Or only over a high $ amount?

[iridebikes247]

modelbaupirate trays look good I'd probably go with kents though. he makes really nice stuff, imo the sled system is one of the most important parts then again....every part is important in these fast fe boats. 6s lipo will be the heaviest part in the boat they've been known to blow through hulls in crashes. not so much c/k hulls but some f/g boats have sank because of this