Thanks guys. I'll give the black fin a whirl. If it's the same fin that comes stock on the ul-1, I think I have one...but Mark mentioned "upgraded", so I'm not sure.
The rod is 4-40. I think you are right and it could still use a sleeve...probably a big part of the steering effectiveness problem if it's bending. I would have never guessed servo torque. Sure enough, mine is wimpy!!
I've been doing leak tests today....taping it up and holding it under water. No bubbles, but it's seeping in somewhere.
I sleeved my 4-40 rod inside a carbon fiber tube. I don't remember if I got the black UL-1 fin from OSE or Kintec. One of them was out of stock when I needed it. I do remember checking into them and found the specs on one of the two sites or on Aquacrafts site. I can't remember anything anymore, getting old stinks!
Here's what it looks like at this point. Went with the aeromarine servo mount. This pushrod system turned out pretty nice IMO. I've found as long as you keep the longer length rods straight, they are fine. If you start putting bends in there, watch out!
Some other quick info:
Using a vegas strut. It's simple and the opposite end is threaded (no nut needed). I've used it on several other boats with success. The rudder is from a proboat fastech. I really think this is one of the best rudders out there. The water inlet hole is huge, nice solid arm, and it even has a nice finish to it. It's very inexpensive as well. Gonna have to sharpen it though.
I also went with the 0.150 cable WITH teflon. I know it's small, but we've been running this with the 1515-1Y's and it's been fine (high quality hughey cables). I think a lot of the cable break problems are due to misalignment. Since the stuffing tube is 1/4", it leaves me the room to switch to .187 if need be.
Just saw your build post, looking good so far. let me know how you like the right side rudder, I would have set it up on the left cause it will tend to turn flatter and not lift the left sponson if you have to turn left. That rudder looks good and the servo is pulling for a right turn. Turn fin bending is not good, do you have the fin monted on the inside of the bracket? Is the black Grim fin thicker? Make double sure that the turn fin alignment is straight with the running pads, check with a ruler held against the fin it MUST be parallel of just a tweek in at the back is ok.
Add weight if it wants to blow off after you have adjusted the strut depth and angle a bit. If your balance point isnot 15.5-16 inches it may want to blow off. This boat looks loose on the water at speed but tends to keep on running with out flipping when the setup is right.
My nitro boat only weighs 5 lb so any more battery weight will help you out.
I am going to set one up with a UL1 motor and esc soon.
PHIL T
FOR $25 + shipping Mike's turn fins are a work of CNC art. Your boat will not slow in the turns at all with this fin. At least it works fantastic on my Whip 20.
I lucked out there! Good point. Rod is in tension during the turn.
I haven't had time to get to the hobby store yet so I tried the fin I made. The profile is based on the one in the plans you sent (see photo below). I was up north and had no means to put a nice curve in it, so I tried a single bend. I used a straight edge and it's in perfect alignment. Turns like a champ now!
I took some weight out of the front on the second run today and she blew over. Gotta bring the strut down and try again next week. Speeds have been 55mph+
With the UL-1 power, this boat will be a finisher everytime. Very stable, nice running boat.
Sounds good, That fin shape works well, but I put a curve on the bottom and set the fin to 90 degrees not at an angle. Angled fins should work ok too.
See how you have the fin on the outside of the mount, all that is keeping that fin from bending out is the head of the bolt. Mount the fin on the inside of the mount.
So, I think Fred's first words were "You WOULDN'T!!!!!". Well, I never planned to......but the vegas cowl w/the retrieval system that I made last year was a perfect fit!! (width wise). A little contour adjusment and a little bit more length on the mold is all it took. Had to make a small mod to the front of the hull for flat tape all around. (all can be removed to run the original cowl in the future).
Still need to correct some shaping issues with the nose cone. We'll give her a whirl this week. No more row boat for me.....I'll be doing the back float back to shore. Sorry Phil, didn't mean to 'uglify' your boat.
wow, I have to say, that looks really nice. when do i get mine? ..... lol
I am already to start my build. I have all of the parts except the hull. kinda need that to start.
wow, I have to say, that looks really nice. when do i get mine? ..... lol
I am already to start my build. I have all of the parts except the hull. kinda need that to start.
NOt sure You have a name? I shipped one out last week
NOt sure You have a name? I shipped one out last week
Hi Phil, Fred Cooper here.
I am looking forward to building your beautiful boat. Pete's handles sooooo good, even in the lake chop up north.
On my vegas, the tips are all covered in epoxy, as it likes to suddenly dunk sometimes and will hit bottom in 5ft of water.
The shape of your sponsons seems spot on for the conditions we typically run on.
Hi Phil, Fred Cooper here.
I am looking forward to building your beautiful boat. Pete's handles sooooo good, even in the lake chop up north.
On my vegas, the tips are all covered in epoxy, as it likes to suddenly dunk sometimes and will hit bottom in 5ft of water.
The shape of your sponsons seems spot on for the conditions we typically run on.
I assume you were talking about the retrieval cowl?? I think Phil thought you were talking about the boat.... Anyway, I actually made (4) of them, but my vacuum forming table is at it's absolute limit (length wise). The ends are hit or miss and require some rework. I have to increase the size of the table.
Phil - Fred got his boat yesterday. He is "unveiling" it tonight at practice.
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