First Build, DF 35" 'Hydrostream'

[FastVee]

Was the motor hot? -if not you most likely have too big prop. Is the prop sharp and balanced? -try x442 or similar next.

Looked your pics above and the drive dog/stinger gap looks too big to me,
I keep about 1-2mm gap and that has worked well for my boats.(the gap you have in the pic is not that bad that it would be the only thing wrong)

Cable greased well? -too much friction?

Check that everything moves freely and no binding .

Also blow air in the outlets and check that air comes off the inlets. -you use 1 inlet for esc and another for motor if I got this right? if not make the water flow first in the esc and then the motor.

If these are ok, then could the boat run too wet? -does it barely touch the water or does it run most of the V in water?

Video could help here?

Do you use seperate bec? -TIMING? -I had 7xl that made the esc hot until I got the timing high. -what is the recomenned timing on 1717?

Also , are the trim tabs a bit over the bottom or same line with it/below the hull? -tabs need to be mounted a bit above the bottom.


Pate

[Jacked1]

Add some more caps.

[Rumdog]

Your drive dog to strut gap is absolutely fine. Do NOT make it smaller. 1-2mm is not enough space to allow the cable to compress.
Prop down a little, and run at WOT. Try a x 448. A x442 will just cavitate like crazy!

[FastVee]

is the 35 much bigger then 33? -I have never seen the 35 live.

-my friend has the33 and uses x442 and it runs well.

I guess it depends what cable/strut etc... you use, but I use 1/4" flex and if I put more then 2mm gap the propshaft will start to wobble, so I use smaller gap and it wont bind .

[Make-a-Wake]

That setup on 5s with an x450 should be safe...........if you are still running less than WOT most of the time the caps will stll get quite hot. They are good up to 220*f by the way............wouldnt want to run it there obviously, but more full throttle will not create as much heat. As Rum suggested, you can cut back to a 448 if the caps are still too hot for your liking after some WOT runs.

[CharlieBucket]

I blew out both inlets and there isn't anything obstructing water flow. I greased the flex drive before the first run but didnt over do it. Only a thin coating. Everything seems to spin great...no binding or anything. My timing I have set at 15-degrees, but I'm not 100% on where it should be. I have an X445 that I need to balance and sharpen, so I am going to prop down and see if that helps. Also, (and I don't know if anyone else has this happen to them) I lose track of time when I'm running. 3rd run last night I ran it only about 3-4 minutes and temped closer to 150's...so I think I should start shorter runs.
I'll try to get a video shot so you guys can see what I see.

[CornelP]

I did use a Monster 2000 and everything was ok, but there is one thing I do not understand: what is the device in the picture? If it's a BEC, it's the first time I see one that connects to the ESC wires... If it's a pistix, there shouldn't be any external power...
Just remove that completely, connect the ESC direct to the Rx (and switch the power on, otherwise the ESC is silent). It is safer to use an external pack for the Rx (I use 4xAA batteries), in which case you have to remove the middle wire from the ESC connector.

[CharlieBucket]

It was a sport BEC I picked up since this ESC isn't equiped with one. I followed the instructions on soldering it to the positive and nevative battery wires.

[CornelP]

This could be one of the reasons why it did not respond... plug the BEC in the AUX port and the ESC directly into Ch2, you should be fine.

[CharlieBucket]

I already have the T-180 installed. I was on vacation all week over the 4th and was pretty impaticent to see it run. I have the Monster for sale, but who knows...I might end up keeping it as a spare. This week I will get another lake day and see if I can talk someone into taking some video of a few WOT passes.

[CharlieBucket]

Does anyone have a link or instructions on how to solder additional caps to an ESC?