FE 30 Rigged for P-Sport Hydro

[Gen]

Gen,

That run IIRC was with a single 4S 5000MaH Turnigy Nano 45C/90C and IIRC an ABC H-5 and a T-180 SC. I went to 4S2P Turnigy 4000MaH Nano 45C/90C batts for the heats at WW VII- many of the other racers just used a single 4S 5000MaH but I wanted some more headroom. I haven't GPS'd the 4S2P setup but it's plenty fast enough that way for heat racing and the extra capacity gave me some insurance for more runtime - If you jump the start or cut a buoy you get a one lap penalty and my driving often requires this .
I switched to the M545 only because I lost the H-5. I like the H-5 for both P-Sport & Spec as well; for spec watch temps.

How you set up your rig depends on your intended purpose. Are you Heat Racing, looking for ultimate SAW top speeds, or just want a fast, great handling fun runner with reasonable run time ?

tony thanks ,,im not lookin for saw i want a good race boat i had some props i tested in the prop section of the forum and the m445 was my best performer (fastest) but the oct V937/3 was most fast most stable run ,i think im gonna try a V940/3 ?? or mabee a H4 i m not comftorable with a h5 .....

[properchopper]

tony thanks ,,im not lookin for saw i want a good race boat i had some props i tested in the prop section of the forum and the m445 was my best performer (fastest) but the oct V937/3 was most fast most stable run ,i think im gonna try a V940/3 ?? or mabee a H4 i m not comftorable with a h5 .....

Sounds good. I ran a tip-cupped M445 last year in my UL-1 in AZ. Good all-around prop.

I haven't checked out the prop forum lately so haven't seen your posts . I'll pm my e-mail so we can correspond there - my OSE inbox is usually full.

[Insaniac]

Thanks to the generosity of my racing benefactor, Mr. Michaud, I got to build a dedicated P-Sport FE 30 to compliment my FE 30 P-Spec LSH boat.

Borrowing the 1515 1Y & T180 from my Vegas, I decided to go solid & sturdy with the components. The front-mount motor mount Jeff supplies for the FE 30's is super strong so I went with it, although I added a 3/32" ply base for added rigidity. I used a .150 flex with teflon so I can pull the teflon & run a .187 if need be.

Because I wasn't sure of battery/batteries placement, I used 90 degree fittings on the SC to allow room for dual batteries on the side if I need the extra capacity, and 4S 4000 Turnigy Nanos fit beside the SC should I choose to go this route.

[more pictures in following posts]

What's the distance from the drive-side endbell to the transom?

[ray schrauwen]

Seems I wrote those instructions relative to the original bracket and after a party at Charlie Sheen's house ( Man, it was tough getting the donkey up the stairs )

For one, Jeff likes the fin inside the bracket. Says the water flowing up the fin won't create lift when it hits the bracket. He knows his stuff, trust me !

Maybe this picture can help.

I've been at the lake wrenching & testing for Jeff & his team since 7:30 this morning & need to get up at 5 tomorrow to make the driver's meeting on time so I'm gettin' horizontal soon. Hope this helps. If more questions, pm me your e-mail & we'll keep going. BTW I promise you'll just love this boat

How many degrees bent is that turn fin sir?

[properchopper]

What's the distance from the drive-side endbell to the transom?

Here's how mine's set up. The cooling jacket touches the cowl just a tiny bit; another .50 or .75 inch forward would fix that but isn't a problem as it is now.

[properchopper]

How many degrees bent is that turn fin sir?

Ray, I don't have a protractor to measure it; does the picture help answer the question ? The mounting bracket has a slotted hole to allow angle adjustment if it becomes necessary.

[rearwheelin]

Tony , can you tell me what kind of a footprint that hardware puts on the transom, I might put that set up on my MK II. Thanks man, Randy

[Gen]

Thanks to the generosity of my racing benefactor, Mr. Michaud, I got to build a dedicated P-Sport FE 30 to compliment my FE 30 P-Spec LSH boat.

Borrowing the 1515 1Y & T180 from my Vegas, I decided to go solid & sturdy with the components. The front-mount motor mount Jeff supplies for the FE 30's is super strong so I went with it, although I added a 3/32" ply base for added rigidity. I used a .150 flex with teflon so I can pull the teflon & run a .187 if need be.

Because I wasn't sure of battery/batteries placement, I used 90 degree fittings on the SC to allow room for dual batteries on the side if I need the extra capacity, and 4S 4000 Turnigy Nanos fit beside the SC should I choose to go this route.

[more pictures in following posts]

i wanted to start building my boat TODAY ...and wanted to use this plywood around motor setup for rigity however i cant find any 7/32 2.4mm ply its too thin ,,so can i use BALSA if i epoxy well ?? want to use balsa for hatch tabs as well >>

and with this boat gettin into 60 mph zone is rails required for rigity as a few people have done ,i just dont want the floor of my boat to come out with a 60mph blowover ..

[fuse01]

i have ran low 60mph on the FE30. but i think it need a .187 flex... mine broke on a .150 with teflon liner.

[properchopper]

i wanted to start building my boat TODAY ...and wanted to use this plywood around motor setup for rigity however i cant find any 7/32 2.4mm ply its too thin ,,so can i use BALSA if i epoxy well ?? want to use balsa for hatch tabs as well >>

and with this boat gettin into 60 mph zone is rails required for rigity as a few people have done ,i just dont want the floor of my boat to come out with a 60mph blowover ..

Gen,

I've found that even with the 3/32" ply base, the motor sits high enough to cause some critical alignment issues with the hatch IF you mount a T-180 in front of the motor and allow room for a single 4S pack in front. Fore-Aft placement takes some fiddling to get everything lined up and the hatch to clear the motor. The hull is strong and I doubt if the motor will "rip out" the floor in case of a blowover. I do however lay some fiberglass tape over the motor mount foot and the ply base for insurance.

[properchopper]

i have ran low 60mph on the FE30. but i think it need a .187 flex... mine broke on a .150 with teflon liner.

Fuse, Mark has run a .150 with a honkin' 1527 with no broken flexes, but a .187 without teflon is what I've gone to for my current builds. It takes me LOTS of time to PERFECTLY line up the motor/shaft/stuffing tube before final permanent attachment.

[ray schrauwen]

i wanted to start building my boat TODAY ...and wanted to use this plywood around motor setup for rigity however i cant find any 7/32 2.4mm ply its too thin ,,so can i use BALSA if i epoxy well ?? want to use balsa for hatch tabs as well >>

and with this boat gettin into 60 mph zone is rails required for rigity as a few people have done ,i just dont want the floor of my boat to come out with a 60mph blowover ..

Avoid balsa for structure.

[Gen]

fe30

well ,i never used balsa ,must have seemed like a stupid question when i later looked at balsa and realized how weak it was ..

i ended up doing a 5mm marine ply frame around engine and shaft similar to what mr propper chopper did and then glued my servo mount and traxxas radio box (for receiver )

still got to epoxy my layout ..

also tony can i ask in setup it talks about strut haveing so much neg .ect the strut from factory is quite inclined so are these already sought of in good position from factory ??

[properchopper]

well ,i never used balsa ,must have seemed like a stupid question when i later looked at balsa and realized how weak it was ..

i ended up doing a 5mm marine ply frame around engine and shaft similar to what mr propper chopper did and then glued my servo mount and traxxas radio box (for receiver )

still got to epoxy my layout ..

also tony can i ask in setup it talks about strut haveing so much neg .ect the strut from factory is quite inclined so are these already sought of in good position from factory ??

Gen, looks good so far. Make sure the hatch clears motor/cooling jacket before epoxying in place. Not clear about your question; picture of my P-Sport strut; bottom of strut is 7/8" from hull bottom; I'm using a small amount of positive(up in back) angle to compensate for prop lift; you'll need to see if your setup doesn't rear-hop while underway and adjust strut angle accordingly.

[electric]

Gen, I also have an FE30. Just a few weeks ago I made my strut exactly flat 0 degrees and for me, this was perfect. I was runing a M447 and was getting some hop and this eliminated the problem. Each prop has a different effect, so you adust a bit sometimes. I would start with perfectly level and go from there. Propper may offer a different perspective.