Well, I've finished making the video of my 2nd test run. I'll be needing some help on replacing cap's on the sw240hv, if you watch the footage you'll see another newbie error. The x450 seems good, I think the damage was pure driver error.
What happened to the 1 minute runs? You might be better off running an oval course and figure out how many laps you can do in a set time. (1 minute) Then have your buddy count the laps and call you in. Or else give him the stopwatch.
Looks to me like your hull is running a little bit too wet. Might still need the trim tabs or strut adjusted or weight moved back a little bit.
Keep at it your almost there.
What happened to the 1 minute runs? You might be better off running an oval course and figure out how many laps you can do in a set time. (1 minute) Then have your buddy count the laps and call you in. Or else give him the stopwatch.
Looks to me like your hull is running a little bit too wet. Might still need the trim tabs or strut adjusted or weight moved back a little bit.
Keep at it your almost there.
Mark
Thanks mate, The rudder is still the stock length for the speedmaster dual pick up, I'm having a stab, but If I shorten that, will that make the difference? Maybe raise the strut and trim tabs, my batteries are back on the servo so no room there. Are those caps stuffed? and how do I replace them? Sorry about all the questions but I want to get back out there again.
I don't know if the rudder will change anything but the amount of drag. Probably have to raise the tabs and or strut a touch.
I don't know much about the caps or how to change them. When I've had ESCs go there is not much left to fix! LOL
Did you do a search on here about the caps and how to replace them? I don't know if I'd run them again the way they are, if they pop you'll have bigger problems and a bigger mess to clean up.
You might have to wait for someone with more experience to chime in on the cap issue.
I don't know if the rudder will change anything but the amount of drag. Probably have to raise the tabs and or strut a touch.
I don't know much about the caps or how to change them. When I've had ESCs go there is not much left to fix! LOL
Did you do a search on here about the caps and how to replace them? I don't know if I'd run them again the way they are, if they pop you'll have bigger problems and a bigger mess to clean up.
You might have to wait for someone with more experience to chime in on the cap issue.
Can anyone tell me what the timing setting on the sf240hv should be on with the 1717. When I check to see if it still worked I noticed I had it programmed for AUTO, I have now changed it to low, what should it be?
I do not know for certain but after a lot of research it appears that the 1717 is a "Y" wind motor. If so then you can use 10-15 degrees of advance for optimum performance.
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Thanks mate, The rudder is still the stock length for the speedmaster dual pick up, I'm having a stab, but If I shorten that, will that make the difference? Maybe raise the strut and trim tabs, my batteries are back on the servo so no room there. Are those caps stuffed? and how do I replace them? Sorry about all the questions but I want to get back out there again.
Shortening the rudder will help reduce your amp draw and would stress the esc less. I did that to my Mean Machine and saw a difference. From the looks of your video it seems that the hull is running way too wet and it sounds like you motor is not getting up to the proper rpm for 6s. I would try to get that hull to "fly" on the water. A strut adjustment would be the first place I would start, shortening your rudder would be one of that last things I would try, is the boat hard to control or does it seem to favor the rudder side when going straight? If not then the rudder isn't causing the problem. I would also keep the runs in the 2-3 minuet range. and check the temps. Generally we run fe boats from 25000 rpm for sport to 35000 rpm for racing. I would perhaps try to run 5s2p instead of 6s2p until you get her dialed in. As for the caps, I would replace them before you run the boat again. All you have to do is unsolder the old caps and put new ones on such as these http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...k-cap-35v-1000 or you could add these http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...i-e041&cat=136. Beware THESE ARE POLARIZED! I think the longer lead is positive for the individual caps. The cap board has clearly marked + and - so you can't mess it up. The cap board is what I use and it dropped my temps down alot. I would set the timing to low to start and when you have the boat running good go ahead and move the timing higher.
thanks guy's, I'll get the caps and a board ordered and I'll make those adjustments and try to get this thing dialed in. I have noticed the two caps that will be replaced, the solder are going to be very hard to get at, any links to how to take the sf240hv apart?
Do you think the t-180 or the sf200 would be ok in this boat, I have a sf200 on the way and I could then just get a t180 to put in the titan29 with the 1515 2200kv, I'm thinking I could do this to get me by until I have worked out how to replace the caps on the s240?
Do you think the t-180 or the sf200 would be ok in this boat, I have a sf200 on the way and I could then just get a t180 to put in the titan29 with the 1515 2200kv, I'm thinking I could do this to get me by until I have worked out how to replace the caps on the s240?
After watching your video I have a few opinions on this:
*Did you calibrate your transmitter? RPM sounds WAY too low for the kv/cell count you are running. I have ran this motor on 6s and it should do MUCH more than that. If it is properly calibrated, I would suspect that one or both of your lipos is not providing the power needed for your setup.
*If the SF240 couldnt handle it, you simple need to change your setup. The SF 200 and T-180 are HUGE steps down in power capability.
* The x450 is too big of a prop for the RPM you are running. I mentioned this before, and I only know this because I have logged smaller props with similar setups on my ICE HV160 and saw current draw beyond 200A. The x450 on 6s with a wet running boat is probably demanding closer to 300A than 200A.
Honestly I think the boat should be much faster than it looks in that video. This is my 34" cat with a 44mm prop and a smaller motor but similar RPM. I can hear a noticable difference in RPM:
Do you think the t-180 or the sf200 would be ok in this boat, I have a sf200 on the way and I could then just get a t180 to put in the titan29 with the 1515 2200kv, I'm thinking I could do this to get me by until I have worked out how to replace the caps on the s240?
The sf200 might be ok, but I would use a small prop to start after all of the adjustments have been made. Do you have a data logger?
I might try re calibrating the controller also, just to make sure.
Yeah, watch a couple minutes of your vid, and then watch mine right after it. It should be about the same RPM, but you can hear a HUGE difference. Something isnt right. If you get it sorted out you will be happy with it, even with the smaller prop.
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