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so im building one of these hulls from OSE. just looking for some ideas from others who have built these... anything helps including pics of your set-up. im trying to figure out best motor and electronics placement firstly. also looking for ideas on how to attach the canopy water tight... ive already fiberglassed the inside of the canopy cause it felt kinda light and flimsy so im happy with how that came out.... thats been it so far... i want to put a leopard 2200 kv in there, where are you guys mounting you motors? thanks , Dana
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talk to fluid -
ill try thatComment
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ok so heres where im at. i did a sub hatch, you can see where i added wood for it. then i started think about how to put the hatch itself on. first i fiberglassed the inside of the hatch cause it felt flimsy to me, next i added hollow carbon fiber rods for use as pins on the front of the hatch then drilled appropriate holes in the hull to hold them. then to make those waterproof without tape i cut small styrofoan blocks and shaped them a little and epoxied them to the inside of the hull behind the holes, when they were dry i pushed the pins into the styrofoam without going thru. done! now water cant get into the hull thru those points. for the back of the hatch i grabbed two 6/32X2 stainless machine screws, two 6/32X 1" threaded nylon spacers, and two 6/32 aluminum threaded spacers. then i cut 2 small pieces of hard maple for feet for the studs. next i put on hatch tight and taped it down, drilled two holes all the way thru and put my studs in tightened in place by the 1" nylon spacers, which also act as the stop point for the hatch, lastly use aluminum threaded spacers to hold hatch on.... nice tight waterproof mean machine hatchComment
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Nice boat Dana.... and good call getting a hull from OSE.... not the flood hull, as I found the quality of those to be wayyyyy off the quality of the "real deal"....Comment
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thanks jms. i almost got one of the flood hulls but opted for the ose hull. very nice....Comment
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Dana, my MM build thread is here - http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6316
Electronics placement will depend a lot on what you're putting in it. I was running an 8XL (sometimes 1515/1Y) with 2x2S lipos (4S1P). Cells could go in the sponsons, but I didn't want my wires to be that long. 4S2P though might be OK with longer wires. Mine had Speedmaster hardware, with the 21 tapered rudder.
The orginal MM hatch is a pest to tape up, and not too pretty IMO. Which is why I built the prototype FFRB hatch for mine - much easier to tape up. But your method looks like it will work well.Comment
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Scott they aren't the same hull as you would buy if you were buying from ose or as hull only from aeromarine, there are mAny threads on this, the flood hull which you just bought from me is a good hull still, however I've owned both types, I would def reinforce the bottom of the flood hull, it will make a very nice boat still.... Just not what I was looking for....:)Comment
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...Last edited by Make-a-Wake; 01-10-2011, 11:18 PM.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=Comment
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I used the mono bracket for the strut. The Etti mount should work with the Leopard 4074, it worked fine with a 1515 Neu, which I think are very similar in size.Comment
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ok thanks scott, i thought the mono bracket would work better for this hull also.
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Dana, The Etti mount works the Nue 1515 naked, (he said naked) but once you get the water jacket on, the mount is too small, but even if you get the Leopard in, just build the mount up with a piece of aluminum or carbon fiber angle (3/8") and you can use it as a motor slide railComment
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