Custom 54" cat twin

[DISAR]

I started to mount the rudder, struts, tubes, water inlets before joining top and bottom so that I have easy access on the aft area. Next step is to temporarily place the motor mounts and glue in position the stuffing tubes, then remove the mounts and join top and bottom parts

a) Water cooling jackets for the motors, made by me by using epoxy-fiberglass-carbon and carbon tubes

b) Water inlets made by 6mm tube placed as aft and close to the tunnel as possible

[DISAR]

3) Struts (Speedmaster) in place making sure that the tubes are parallel to the sponsons. Nuts are glued with 24hr epoxy mixed with microbaloons and small carbon pieces, this serves in two ways - easy to unscrew the bolts and watersealing the bolts holes

4) Rudder base in place

5) motor mount made by carbon plate, first used a piece of carton box to make the template

[DISAR]

And this is the deck, as taken out from the mould, weight is 1 kgr = 2.2 lb, which is OK.

[bassjunkies]

Nice work DISAR!!! I like the way you work!!!!

I would like to have some more infos about the water jackets for the 1717s. I have a 1717 on the way for my 40" monohull and I will need a water jacket soon!!!

[DISAR]

Thanks!

Quite easy to make (I make water jackets for all my motors).
1) Glue two rubber rings on the motor with CA
2) Measure the external diameter
3) Find a cylindrical object with the same diameter or 0.5mm bigger
4) Wrap cooking paper-non stick around it
5) Apply 24hr epoxy with 2 rounds of glass 60-80 gr, 1 round 160gr and 1 round carbon (all at same time)
6) Wrap all of it with a plactic film and let it cure
7) After cure remove the plastic film, cut it to desired length
8) Decide where the water tubes will be, I use carbon tubes 3/16". Drill holes, and attach the tubes with CA (internal surface of the jacket to be flush) and then 24hr epoxy mixed with carbon or microbaloons
9) Test that there are no leaks with air
10) Slide the jacket to the motor and seal the ends with high temp silicone, again air test for leaks by blowing air with your mouth.

The important thing is that the jacket once fitted cannot be removed or turned, therefore the position of the in-out tubes must be decided in advance.

[DISAR]

motor mounts temporarily fitted to check proper position, angle and make the stuffing tubes. Motors bolted to the mounts, and fitted the flex cables, then positioning the mount in different angles to find the minimum flex curve. after that made the stuffing tubes so that flex and motor shaft are aligned, very important for the smooth rotation of the flex shafts without vibration

[Rumdog]

This cat is AWESOME, DISAR! Very nice work!

[DISAR]

Thank you! This is a totally experimental boat. I don't even know what was the original boat from which the mold came out.

[blackcat26]

I am gonna have to agree. This boat is looking FINE!

[DISAR]

some progress made, tubes,motor mounts,rudder fixed in position
servo mount ready to be fixed, and esc-battery mounts in progress. I am not sure about the c.g, it is where the shaft is, about 48 cm (18.9") from the transom which is 35%. A layout with 6s2p per motor if shown.

[DISAR]

more pics

[ls1fst98]

this thing looks awesome man! wish i could get a hold of a mold. i have a ton of carbon cloth laying here

[martno1fan]

Boat looks awesome m8,incidently i never use PVA, just wax is all i ever use.Most use wax first then pva but the pva gives a poor dull finish in my experience so i never use it.Interesting to see you used the PVA first then the wax but this means your mould has no build up of wax as it is removed when you pull the part which kinda defeats the purpose of building up the wax layers on a mould so if using it several times you need to add more wax lol doesnt matter for a one off build but just for your information so to speak.
Mart

http://www.waveridermouldings.zoomshare.com/0.html

[DISAR]

I also use wax but for smaller boats or hatches. I used PVA on this one because it is a very big boat with complex corners etc.. and it would take me days to wax it 9-10 times, plus the mold is not mine so didn't want to risk anything... hahaha
I agree the PVA gives a light dull finish

[martno1fan]

The wax i use takes minutes to be ready for the next layer,wax on wax off grasshopper lol and repeat waiting about 20 mins between layers hmm if i can be bothered to wait lol,once the layers are built up i usually do 3 layers between parts and havent had a part stick yet .In my experience pva just complicates things,i used to use it but since trying without i wont go back to it.My Apache is 58" and my shovel is 50" .
Mart