Osprey 41-inch mono

[forescott]

Ok, I've been collecting parts for the osprey that I got from Skyello a while back. So I figured it was time to start putting it together. Here are some of the components that will go into the build. Leopard 5692 1340kv. Peter Z mount. Turnigy 180. 4-turnigy 3600mah 3s 30c lipos, good for 6s and 7200mah. Got rid of the odd 2-piece flex shaft/square drive thingie. Got a new Speedmaster 3/16 stinger and cable. Stock rudder/turn fins/trim tabs. Now I guess I gotta get to work!

[Brushless55]

Oh man, that should scoot!

[Make-a-Wake]

Nice Build! That big Leopard outta move it out!

[Brushless01]

Please could I have a link to that stinger ??

[martin]

Ok, I've been collecting parts for the osprey that I got from Skyello a while back. So I figured it was time to start putting it together. Here are some of the components that will go into the build. Leopard 5692 1340kv. Peter Z mount. Turnigy 180. 4-turnigy 3600mah 3s 30c lipos, good for 6s and 7200mah. Got rid of the odd 2-piece flex shaft/square drive thingie. Got a new Speedmaster 3/16 stinger and cable. Stock rudder/turn fins/trim tabs. Now I guess I gotta get to work!

Where the motor sits in the mount at the opposite end to the shaft is the motor just a fairly loose slide in fit at that end of the mount & its the other end where the bolts go into the motor end plate that holds the motor 100%. Also any reason why you chose a 3/16" Speedmaster shaft over a 1/4" one. Martin.

[forescott]

You are correct about the mount. I already have a bunch of 3/16 props, and I felt like the 3/16 flex was plenty strong enough for the props i'll be spinning.

[forescott]

Link for the stinger....http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-strnger....

[martin]

Will you change the plugs on the lipos to deans or change to bullet connectors on the esc. Martin.

[forescott]

Deans are supposedly only good to 60-amps. this setup will pull way more than that. The stock lipo connectors are 4mm bullets. I'm gonna swap em out for 5mm bullets. Using 6.5mm bullets between the motor and esc.

[martin]

Why do you prefer pulling the motor foward 4" to putting around where the old motor is, Also how do you intend to layout the 4 packs of cells with the 5692 motor installed. Will you have the cells behined the motor all in the centre section & what prop do you see useing with this set up. Martin.

[forescott]

The 5692 in the motor mount sets up pretty high off the bottom of the hull. Moving the motor forward just allows me to use a longer section of stuffing tube for a more gradual upward bend in the tubing. I cant use the stock stuffing tube unless I cut it loose and bend it upward quite a bit. I'd rather remove it and start fresh with a new piece.

I'm hoping to put the batteries behind the motor in the center of the hull along the sides of the stuffing tube. If the c.o.g. is too far back, then I will move 2 of the packs to either side of the motor mount.

I'm not real sure yet about the prop selection. I've read quite a bit about other df-40 builds using props in the 50-60mm range depending on the motor/voltage. I ended up with an x452 which I think will be safe to start with. Hard to believe this hull comes with a tiny 440 prop in stock form.

[martin]

Yes unbelievable the motor they fit stock is a 2200kv & not 2000kv as they claim, Still way to small motor & to high kv. Stock prop is that small for fear of burning things in this large hull, The prop that was with mine was a 440 but on measuring it was closer to 38mm. Do you see any reason that useing the origanl stinger & removing the separate stub shaft & then fitting a new one piece flexshaft that has the welded on stub shaft where you would then be able to remove the whole shaft assembly through the stinger & not removing from the inside like the origanal shaft assembly. Martin.

[forescott]

I was gonna leave the stock stinger, but the original prop shaft which slides in from the inside out has a step-down in size and it looked like an aftermarket flex/prop shaft would be un-supported at the transom if used with the stock stinger. I didn't want to take the chance of any excess water coming in or any unnecessary vibration coming from the transom. So I spent the extra $$$ for a replacement.

[forescott]

Today I made up a set of stringers out of 3/8 inch ply. Cut a 24 degree angle on the bottom with the table saw to get maximum adhesion. Bolted the motor/mount to the stringers and set it in the hull for mock-up.

I also cut out the stock stuffing tube, to replace with a slightly longer 7/32 diameter brass tube. Decided not to use teflon tubing this time. I had to slip a 1" piece of 1/4 inch brass tube over the rear section of stuffing tube to fit snugly into the speedmaster stinger.(bottom is stock tube for comparison) Set the tubing in place and ran the flex cable up the stuffing tube into the coupler. Now that I have everything lined up I can tack the stringers and stuffing tube with 5-min. epoxy. As soon as it dries I will either epoxy or glass the stringers completely.

[Rumdog]

Make sure to check your CG with the lipos in there before gluing in the stringers. Looks sweet man!