Delta Force Sniper 45 on 12S

[Anbjorn]

I promised some people to make a build thread on this, so here is a small update.
Better late than never I guess.
Most of the carbon reinforcement has been done.
And as you see I have not tried to get the deep, shiny, wet look.
That only adds weight and not strength.
The drive shaft is 5mm piano wire that runs in 6pcs sealed bearings distributed evenly in a brass tube with minimum bend.
I have tested the wire drive at max Dremel speed (33000rpm) for 5 minutes without any issues or heat. Hopefully it will be the same under load.
Motor is a Lehner 3080 / 7
ESC is a Schulze 40.300WK
Batteries are 4 pcs. Hyperion VX G3 6S/5500mAh.
These will be connected in 12S/11000mAh configuration.
The strut is a 1/4" Gas Strut from M&D.
Prop I am not sure about yet, but I will start out with an X460/3 and take it from there.
Next is making a carbon fibre mounting for the esc.
This will be adjustable fore/aft to make changes to CG.
I will try to give you an update as I continue.
Anbjørn

[Anbjorn]

Some more pictures.

[Rumdog]

Nice! That speed control is ridiculous!

[Make-a-Wake]

Nice! Full of heavy duty equipment!

[johnf]

Nice! That speed control is ridiculous!

I was thinking the same! Beastly haha

[tth]

Beautiful, I have a 3060/10 that I may play around with in my DF41. Please post results of your setup and maybe throw in a video ( or two )

[RaceMechaniX]

Anbjørn,

Thanks for positng your build. One quick question on your wire drive: With several bearings inline to support the wire is it difficult to replace the wire? i.e. does the wire get caught on the bearings when inserting it?

Tyler

[Anbjorn]

Tyler,
That is a very good question. That was one of my worries before I could actually test it.
The first and biggest problem was that the pianowire was slightly bigger than the 5mm ID of the bearings. I used a drill to spin the wire and slowly redusing the diameter of the wire using sand paper and then slip on the bearings.
I then cut pieces of 10mm OD aluminium pipe used for spacing the bearings inside the 10mm ID brass pipe. I hoped that the aluminium pipes would bend easy. Yeah right!!!
I realy took some elbow grease to bend.
Bent the whole thing with the wire, spacers and bearings just enough to make sure that the exiting end of the wire was absolutly level with the keel line and motor clearing the bottom of the hull.
I made the motor end of the wire pointed and pulled it out.
I lubed the wire and it slid right back in again.
However without the pointed end it would not had gone thru.

So to answer your question. Changing the wire is no problem.
Hopefully the wire never need replacement.
Hope this make sense.
Anbjørn

Anbjørn,

Thanks for positng your build. One quick question on your wire drive: With several bearings inline to support the wire is it difficult to replace the wire? i.e. does the wire get caught on the bearings when inserting it?

Tyler

[RaceMechaniX]

Thanks Anbjørn,

Perfect explanation. I'll be curious to know how well the wire drive holds up to that level of motor power. I thought of something along those lines for a rigger, but had a lot of concerns if replacment would be possible and if it would survive. Great tip on the pointed end to thread the wire through.

Keep us posted.

Tyler

[Punisher 67]

Very nice so far Anbjorn , curious to see it run . I have no doubt with the 3080/7 you will between 110 to 125 kph depending on prop

[Anbjorn]

Thanks Peter!

What kind of cowl locks or arrangement are you all using for the back of the cowl?
Should be strong and at the same time easy to seal up.
I have a hard time deciding what to do.
Please post pictures here.
Anbjørn

[RaceMechaniX]

I believe those are the Aeromaine quick locks.

[Punisher 67]

Anbjorn here is a closer look , I bought mine off of ebay but I am pretty sure steven sell these also , I didn't look close enough I though you were only running 10 cells , Jeez Anbjorn that boats going to tear that lake a new a$$hole on 12 cells . If you can keep it on the water I bet 130kph + easily

I absolutely love the Sniper , such an awesome and predictable boat to drive

[Anbjorn]

A small update here.
Mainly soldering motor and battery connectors and installation of flotation left to do.
One thing that I am a little unsure of if how long I can keep the battery and motor cables and get away with it safely.
I can get all the cables very short if neccesary, but if I want to use the parts in a different boat it is likly that they need to be longer.
The Schulze manual says that the motor cables should not be longer than 10cm (4") That is very short.
It also says that long cables should be twisted. How can anybody twist 10cm long cables of this size?
Any advice?
The batteries are HYPERION G3 VX 22.2V 6S 5500 MAH 35C/65C
Anbjørn

[Anbjorn]

One more.