Project Genesis!

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  • Brushless55
    Creator
    • Oct 2008
    • 9488

    #316
    Originally posted by FighterCat57
    Friday. Have a half dozen of them. Think I'll put a pair of them in a Genesis to see what they can do.


    I stuffed a pair of 1717's in a Daytona (Genesis) today. Used the 50mm TwinCat Motor Mounts I had made. He he. Twin 1717's? Can you say SAW Boat?
    twin 17's is nuts
    Last edited by Brushless55; 01-09-2011, 05:40 PM.
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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    • Igoreski
      Member
      • Apr 2010
      • 77

      #317
      Water pickup ?

      I need some advise on where to install the through the hull water pickups.The place that seems ideal would interfere with the stinger/drive hardware.Is the stepped area or the angled portion of the bottom bad for water flow because they would give me lots of room to work with.I am cooling 2 motors,ESCs and motor mounts and the rudder pickup probably will not have enough flow.

      Comment

      • FighterCat57
        "The" Fighter Cat
        • Apr 2010
        • 3480

        #318
        Rudder should be enough. I run twins off the rudder using a y adapter from OSE. Plenty of flow.
        FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.

        Comment

        • Igoreski
          Member
          • Apr 2010
          • 77

          #319
          Thanks, I just got my hull and rudder today and that rudder has twin inlets and should be way better than my old one that only drew from the left side.The daytona hull is beautiful and the fit and finish is great too.This project will be a good one and the hull has so much more room to install the hardware.Is there a standard distance from the transom to install the motor mounts or should I measure the total distance with drives in place?? Thanks Fighter Cat for the great products!!

          Comment

          • FighterCat57
            "The" Fighter Cat
            • Apr 2010
            • 3480

            #320
            Originally posted by Igoreski
            Thanks, I just got my hull and rudder today and that rudder has twin inlets and should be way better than my old one that only drew from the left side.The daytona hull is beautiful and the fit and finish is great too.This project will be a good one and the hull has so much more room to install the hardware.Is there a standard distance from the transom to install the motor mounts or should I measure the total distance with drives in place?? Thanks Fighter Cat for the great products!!
            The distance to mount the motors is still to be determined on these hulls.

            The thing to watch out for is balancing with lipos. If the motors are too far forward, you won't be able to slide the batteries back far enough to get your COG where you want it.

            Put the batteries & motor in the hull and set the COG to make sure you have enough room for adjustment.

            The guy with the real answers is mudl. Having hit over 80mph, he's certainly found a good mounting point for the motors. Maybe he will be kind enough to share where he mounted his and his COG/hull weight.
            FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.

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            • Igoreski
              Member
              • Apr 2010
              • 77

              #321
              Yes that would help and a picture too.I will start machining a backing plate for the rudder with threads cut in the plate.Then I will shorten the rudder and remove the unused drive portion.The quality on this rudder is much better than the OEM stuff.I got a Traxxas waterproof 125oz torque servo to replace the dying one from the Queen of shaves disaster.

              Comment

              • Brushless55
                Creator
                • Oct 2008
                • 9488

                #322
                anyone with a good idea of the correct COG of this hull?
                .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                Comment

                • Rumdog
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Mar 2009
                  • 6453

                  #323
                  Originally posted by Brushless55
                  anyone with a good idea of the correct COG of this hull?
                  That all depends on how fast you will be going

                  Comment

                  • Brushless55
                    Creator
                    • Oct 2008
                    • 9488

                    #324
                    Originally posted by Rumdog
                    That all depends on how fast you will be going
                    as fast as possible!
                    I'm going to put a CC1520 on 6s in mine, and looking for low to mid 60's
                    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                    Comment

                    • Igoreski
                      Member
                      • Apr 2010
                      • 77

                      #325
                      Hull foam.

                      One of the faults with my old hull was too much flex in the wide open front which was filled with chunks of water noodle foam.I have done many home projects with minimal expanding foam including the edge of the trim around vinyl windows with no expansion problems.I was thinking about putting in about 1 1/2" every 24 hours so each layer could cure fully.This would make the already tougher hull flex free and every layer would skim over as a moisture barrier.This would only add a couple of ounces to the weight.Any thoughts on this??

                      Comment

                      • FighterCat57
                        "The" Fighter Cat
                        • Apr 2010
                        • 3480

                        #326
                        Originally posted by Igoreski
                        One of the faults with my old hull was too much flex in the wide open front which was filled with chunks of water noodle foam.I have done many home projects with minimal expanding foam including the edge of the trim around vinyl windows with no expansion problems.I was thinking about putting in about 1 1/2" every 24 hours so each layer could cure fully.This would make the already tougher hull flex free and every layer would skim over as a moisture barrier.This would only add a couple of ounces to the weight.Any thoughts on this??
                        Be Careful. I've done it on my big gasser and a couple smaller hulls. It floats!
                        FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.

                        Comment

                        • Igoreski
                          Member
                          • Apr 2010
                          • 77

                          #327
                          I am going to test it out on my EKOS hull which I am throwing away soon.If that does not bow out nothing will.I have clear tubes which I will add on to the can nozzle to give me a couple feet extension so i can put the first layer all the way to the tips.

                          Comment

                          • Rumdog
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 6453

                            #328
                            This is a better option for your application: http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

                            Comment

                            • Igoreski
                              Member
                              • Apr 2010
                              • 77

                              #329
                              That is great stuff but it is way too heavy for my project.I hope to get by on just a few OZs.

                              Comment

                              • Brushless55
                                Creator
                                • Oct 2008
                                • 9488

                                #330
                                Originally posted by Igoreski
                                One of the faults with my old hull was too much flex in the wide open front which was filled with chunks of water noodle foam.I have done many home projects with minimal expanding foam including the edge of the trim around vinyl windows with no expansion problems.I was thinking about putting in about 1 1/2" every 24 hours so each layer could cure fully.This would make the already tougher hull flex free and every layer would skim over as a moisture barrier.This would only add a couple of ounces to the weight.Any thoughts on this??
                                One thing I've found that really helps this stuff expand when using a small amount to help keep the weight down even more is, I put about 1/4 full into a hull, then put it into the bathroom with a HOT shower going to build mass moisture in the room for like a min or two..
                                shut off the shower then let the hull set in the room for 15-20min or so, and the stuff expands like mad
                                very light weight
                                .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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