Miss Vegas brushless conversion

[blackcat26]

The etti will do just fine with the turnigy motor.

[HYDROJERRY]

Thanks blackcat, sorry i still dont understand how to figure out the power stuff, iread it and read it but still just dont get it,,O well one day i hope,,

[blackcat26]

As I understand the more amps an esc is rated for gives you more protection from smoking it. Like whatever the motors max amps are you want a certain margin above that to keep it from being toast. Another thing is a motor rated for "x" amount of amps might pull way higher when in service, so it's always a good thing to get a little more than you think you need.

[Shooter]

Mskiin - Congrats on the boat. Sounds like it's working great!

Jerry - Where did you get those connectors? Are those equiv to 5.5mm bullets?

I'm a bit behind you guys. I'm still laying glass in the hull. It was a mess when I bought it. Some spots were as thin as the gelcote and I pushed my finger thru!! I plan to be done by mid next week though!

I just finished the strut tube. Running a 1/4" with .187" flex. I put a drill bit in the collet and a smaller pc of brass in the stuffing tube to line it up. Worked pretty good! I still plan to have a seal hatch like Jerry's, just haven't figured out exactly what I'm going to do yet.

[Mskiin]

Sounds like your on your way shooter. The trickiest part about the conversion was gettng the motor mount correct. But once you have a good motor mount in your golden.

Hydrojerry- when your talking amps and what not for an esc motor and battery there are a few things to remember. Make sure your esc has a high enough amp rating as to not get toasted. Your motor pulls amps from the esc so if you have a 60 amp motor get a 120 amp esc because you are likely to exceed 60 amps on the motor so yo want that cushion. Also you need yo get a batt that allows enogh current draw. Motor pulls from esc and escpulls from batt. So have a good current rating on the battery. Say you have a 5000 mah 20 c batt. 5000 x 20= 100,000 the divide 100,000 by 1,000 and you get 100 amp max draw. So a 60 amp motor could safely pull from a 120 a esc and a 100 amp batt. Get it??? It's confusing but hopefully I broke it down enogh for you

[HYDROJERRY]

Shooter , the connectors are EC3 connectors from HK i beleive they are 3.5mm,, i will probly be changing them dunno,
Mskiin, thanks for the info brother it makes more sense now i may need to right it down,,,
Shooter the hatch is great but with the new Turnigy motor its upagainst the motor and wont close right i think im going to try to heat the center of it and hopefully get it to like bubble outword some to clear the motor and close all the way..

[HYDROJERRY]

Hay Shooter i just tryed to bubble out the lid but just found out it is not plexiglass it is fiberglass so it didnt work think im going to see if i can get an airplane canipy cut the fiberglass in the middle and epoxy it in for motor clearence,,,

[Shooter]

I think I might have the same problem. The motor is not touching, but it is very close. I layed it down as flat as I possibly could. See attached. I fitted a pc of plexiglass and used the existing lip in the hull. I won't lie, it took some serious time and finess to get all the edges rounded and fitted, but it fits like a glove now! Anyway, I might end up shaving a tad off the water cooling jacket and mill a very small groove in the plexiglass above the motor just in case! The cowl will fit over with some mods and some o-ring/hook mounts in the rear. This thing is going to move!

[HYDROJERRY]

Whow shooter looking good i like the look of the plexyglass better than my fiberglass but why did you cover the water runoff groove, mine stops at the groove not over it,,man two 4s packs its going to sceam..

[Shooter]

Jerry - I covered them because I wanted to make (1) hatch instead of glueing down a separate hatch for it to fit in. See photos. I re-built the front portion as well so the single pc of plexiglass can be taped completely around. I had to shave off the edge on the cowl since there are no longer any grooves for it to fit in. The back will be held in by (2) o-ring/hook mounts. I still don't know what I am going to do about the motor clearence. It's very close. What did you end up doing to solve this problem?

Mskiin - Any more runs with yours??

I hope to have mine running in a week. It sure is heavy with those (2) 4S packs. Not sure if this is going to help or hurt! Might handle the rougher water better.

[HYDROJERRY]

The local LHS didnt have an airplane canipy like i wanted to use for mine but the guy made a good point since mine if giberglass im going to cut out the area that the motor touches, stick a little bottle in it, fiberglass over it then peel away the bottle to make a little hump, hope it works...As for the battery placement youll probly have to just move them around anh find your own sweet spot,,,

[blackcat26]

Shooter, have you tried running it on just one pack? A 35c 5000mah batt is good for 175 amps continuous. I'd try that, just gonna hurt your run time a little.

[HYDROJERRY]

Got mine done today, LHS didnt have the airplane canipy so i cut out the cover layed a sheet of FG and epoxyed it, many layers of epoxy, looks like sh-- but it will work...and with the hood on you cant see it anyway...

[Shooter]

BlackCat - Not sure I have the room to run just one pack (in front) anymore since I filled in the nose. I'll have to check it out!

Jerry - Looks like that will do the job! I just have to get the nerve to cut my piece of plexiglass! What if I just mill a slot and tape over it?? I could check temps without removing the top!

[blackcat26]

I see. Well, we'll see what happens. My Elam was pretty heavy. The waterline came over the front of the boat. It still worked good while on plane but I had to gun it hard to get her out of the hole.