HOTR twin build

[tiqueman]

Im setting it up per a discussion w/ Mudl from the forum. 2-3S packs in series, then parallelled to each esc.

[RayR]

Im setting it up per a discussion w/ Mudl from the forum. 2-3S packs in series, then parallelled to each esc.

Kinda rough on the cells pulling 150amps plus continous.

All the best,

Ray

[eboat]

Kinda rough on the cells pulling 150amps plus continous.

All the best,

Ray

That is what I was thinking also when you were only using a one P setup

[ozzie-crawl]

that boat is going to be insane, i had mine in the 60s with 1 540xl on 4s
be interesting to see if it stays on the water

[JCAustralia]

Great craftmanship!!!

[tiqueman]

Kinda rough on the cells pulling 150amps plus continous.

All the best,

Ray

Again, as I said, it was suggested to set it up this way and has been proven to work. But, if I do have problems, changing to a different battery set up is the easiest thing to do. I will say that I am curious about it though, because those were my thoughts as well.

Ozzie, what XL? Did you ever finish your twin build? I saw it on another forum last night.

Thanks Jerome!

[tiqueman]

Stuffing tube ?

I tacked a motor mount in, trying to get the best fit for the motor. Is this too much bend for the stuffing tube?

[Rumdog]

As long as it spins freely you should be good. Can't you angle the motors more to get more of a straight shot?

[tiqueman]

I could angle it a couple more degrees. It will put the front end of the motor almost against the lip in the deck for the hatch though. The HOTR lip comes so far down! It is easy to spin.

[Rumdog]

How did you properly get the shape for the motor mounts?

[johnnyoverkill]

I tacked a motor mount in, trying to get the best fit for the motor. Is this too much bend for the stuffing tube?

Scott,

There are two bends in your stuffing tube, shoot for one, it will remove much of the cable drag. Also try switching out the teflon tube and run 1 size up on the cable. I removed all of the teflon from my .130 cables and now run .150 in the same tube. Just add grease and watch for the increase in rpm.

Good luck with it! I assume that this is the same hull that was marked H & M?

John

[tiqueman]

Johnny, yes, same hull. Its come a loooong way.

I broke the motor mount loose and angled it as much I could and re-tacked it. And my goodness.. I barely put any epoxy on it the first time and man it bit. Twas a bear to get out. Yeah, I didnt like the "S" bend it was beginning to make. Thats why I shot the ? out there to OSE land. It may still have a very small one, put I dont think near as much as it did.

Pics coming soon

[tiqueman]

How did you properly get the shape for the motor mounts?

oops, missed that ? The mounts that came in it were close.. but not quite. They were off the angled part of the bottom, that goes to the side. So the mount went from the flat part of the bottom of the sponson and then angled up and hit the side about 1/8 or 3/16 above where the bottom meets the side. And the mounts stopped at the hatch lip. I took a piece of balsa, traced the existing mount, then looked at the mount in the boat and drew on the balse where I thought it should be.. bunch of trial and error and I made a CF template. then made the mounts off that.

[tiqueman]

Dont know why I just didnt do it like that the first time...

Much better and now only one bend in the tube.

[bonewar]

I tacked a motor mount in, trying to get the best fit for the motor. Is this too much bend for the stuffing tube?

Tiqueman,

Here are my stuffing tubes out of the Twin Simrad Maritimo.
She spins the props at about 37k.
These little suckers get hot and the thick grease turns to fluid very quickly.
The less curve on your stuffing tubes the better for less friction.
Better to angle the motor high to get the soft curve.

Nice build buy the way.
Going to be very fast.

Bonewar