Scotts E-thundercat build

[forescott]

O.K., water tested in the tub last night and there is a water coming in from under one of my battery trays that I epoxied in only hours before. Soo, I had to dremel out the epoxy and remove the trays today in order to acess the leak. Turns out there was a teenie hole in the sponson from one of the areas where I removed the factory stringers. So I used some plastic epoxy to patch up the hole from the inside. Since the trays are already out, I guess nows the time to remove the rest of the wood stringers that were stopping me from moving the battery trays further back where they should be. I'll have to cut about 3/4 of an inch from the ends of the trays to remove the old epoxy and rough areas where I dremeled them loose. I'm gonna bathtub test it again tonight before re-epoxying the trays back in place. The other problem I am having is getting the stuffing tube to bend upward in order to set the strut higher. I tried to carefully bend the tube up, and I got it to bend just a little,but not enough. I pushed it upwards until it touched the bottom of the hull but it still springs back down. I'm afraid if I push it too much its gonna crack the hull. Anyone got any ideas??

[Rumdog]

how much does it need to move? Just enough to line up with the strut where it is in the pic?

[m4a1usr]

The other problem I am having is getting the stuffing tube to bend upward in order to set the strut higher. I tried to carefully bend the tube up, and I got it to bend just a little,but not enough. I pushed it upwards until it touched the bottom of the hull but it still springs back down. I'm afraid if I push it too much its gonna crack the hull. Anyone got any ideas??

Its set that way from the factory. My strut ended up about an 1/8" of an inch above the bottom of the sponsons. I dont know where yours will end up being set at but I am happy with mine. You could add some heat to the stuffing tube and remove the anealing so that it bends easier. Most likely it will end up overheating the surrounding FG/glassing that seals the hull so plan accordingly. Just dont burn the glazzing around the bottom and you should be able to add some room for adjustment.

John

[forescott]

how much does it need to move? Just enough to line up with the strut where it is in the pic?

Actually the picture shows the strut approx. 2mm up from bot. of hull. I am assuming that I will probably need to raise it more. Ive seen some struts where the stuffing tube looks as though it is attached somehow to the strut. If I can somehow connect the two then my problem is solved. I am a little leary about heating up the stuffing tube without damaging the hull and paint.

[forescott]

Its set that way from the factory. My strut ended up about an 1/8" of an inch above the bottom of the sponsons. I dont know where yours will end up being set at but I am happy with mine. You could add some heat to the stuffing tube and remove the anealing so that it bends easier. Most likely it will end up overheating the surrounding FG/glassing that seals the hull so plan accordingly. Just dont burn the glazzing around the bottom and you should be able to add some room for adjustment.

John

Is your TC an FE boat or nitro? Curious as to what you've got, and your setup.

[Rumdog]

Speedmaster struts allow the stuffing tube to be slid into the nose of the strut. Makes it really solid.

[forescott]

Speedmaster struts allow the stuffing tube to be slid into the nose of the strut. Makes it really solid.

Do you know if the flared out end is just the copper tube itself or a seperate piece attached to the tube?

[forescott]

I cant tell on mine because it is painted over.

[CornelP]

Try to insert a piece of wood between the tube and the hull, just where the tube exits... then bend it, this will give you leverage.

[forescott]

I think I figured out how to fix the problem. I drilled out about 1/2" into the strut bushing with a 7/32" bit, then slid a 1 1/2" piece of 7/32" brass tube into the strut. Then slid a 1 1/2" piece of 1/4" tube over the 7/32"piece and slid the assembly into the stock stuffing tube, allowing me to push the strut and tube up without binding the flex cable. The strut pushed up at its max is only about 3mm above the sponsons so if I need to move the strut up more, i will have to open up the adjusting holes in the strut to allow more movement. Also got my c.o.g set at 29% with my gps in the front. I think I'm ready for a test run!

[Rumdog]

Sweet! Let her rip!!!

[m4a1usr]

Is your TC an FE boat or nitro? Curious as to what you've got, and your setup.

Mine is a nitro conversion. I was one of the first guys to convert to FE 3 years ago. Mine started with a Feigao 540xl can, then a KB45, then changed over to a Neu 1521. The hull is heavy when you compare it to others in its size and class. I had a MM that ran great on a 540xl can. Not this tank.

I run 6S with a OEMRC Sentilon 100 amp speedo (I think they call them Turnigy now) its the 2 to 12 lipo version. Prop is a good ole prather 225. With just a little "magic". Cupping at the tip/backedge. But razor sharp and the blades thinned.

I got rid of the stock strut and upgraded to a speedmaster and the rudder is wider and thinner. I left all the wood inside with the exception of the piece holding in the fuel tank. Nose had non expanding spray in foam installed. My motor mount is a bastardized home brew. When I started the project there were no "Custom" motor mounts available. Now you can have anything made you want. I have one already to drop in. Just too many other projects and this one does work.

John

[forescott]

Ran the tc31 this weekend with the cf40 on 4s @ 36mph. Got a ton of water inside from the stuffing tube. Took it home, added a piece of silicon tubing @ the stuffing tube/flex shaft. Put on my p220 and got 41.5mph before the boat hooked real hard in a turn and rolled. Luckily it landed right side up and still would run, but the rudder was stuck and the boat would only make left hand circles. Had to wait 40 minutes til it drifted ashore and found the servo arm stripped from the servo and was stuck. (I dont think the servo arm fits quite right on the servo) I've heard stories about the stock rudder design and its tendency to hook in the turns. I have a speedmaster rudder on the way from ose and I'll find a replacement servo arm that fits well. No temps on the p220 cause it took 40 minutes to get it out of the water. I'm gonna wait til I receive my m445 and m545 from eggneg before running it again. Also modified the strut to be able to move it upward another 1/4" from bottom of sponsons. I think this is a neccessary mod especially when I start running the 45mm props.

[forescott]

I also have been browsing the nitro TC threads over at RCU and a lot of guys running bigger nitro motors in their TC's are actually forcing the strut down below the sponsons and giving the strut posotive angle. Does this sound right. Maybe having something to do with the gas tank mounted in front of the motor/compensating for the forward center of gravity??

[dddmx3]

Im going to use the stadard servo for first couple runs :/
hope everything goes well...