Aeromarine Conquest FE Open Cat 10S Build

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  • RaceMechaniX
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2007
    • 2821

    #1

    Aeromarine Conquest FE Open Cat 10S Build

    Guys,

    Thought I would share one of current builds, a AM Conquest for open class in my district. I had started collecting all the power components for a open 10S rigger which I am designing, but the have too many design projects to get the rigger finished quickly so I decided to put the same power system into a cat. I will still finish the design and build of the rigger when time allows and then switch over the power system, but in the meantime here is the cat build:

    To start I ordered an Aeromarine Conquest in normal lay-up thickness with some carbon strengthening. Remember this is going to be a race boat and will be hit often in my district so no light lay-ups here.

    The power system includes a Neu 2215 1.5Y and a Schulze 40.160wk or a Hydra 240HV. I plan on using 10S1P Neu Energy 6500 XP 25C batteries for sprint races and a 8S2P FP 4500 30C (9000mAh total) for offshore. I'll have to see how much drain the batteries take and adjust accordingly. Here are some pics of the power system.


    Prior to purchasing the Schulze I had thought about using a 110HV. I ended up maching some aluminum cooling plates and used some thermal grease and thick shrink tubing over everything to hold it all together. Although I will not use this esc in this build I thought I would show pics in case anyone was interested.




    For the batteries, I ended up making a mold to lay-up some composite battery trays which tuck into the sponsons. I plan on lining the trays with some thin silicon foam rubber and holding the batts in with velcro straps. The trays measure 2" wide on the inside, 1" tall on the sides and are 12" long. They are almost long enough to hold two packs ened to end. They stick out a little either side, but no big deal. The trays are laid up using a 4oz layer of fiberglass on the inside followed by two layers of 12.5 oz carbon/kevlar weave and another 4 oz layer of fiberglass on the outside. It was a simple wet lay-up using teflon release ply and lots of clamps/weights to squeeze out the excess epoxy. I do have vaccum bagging equipment, but it was not worth the effort for these non-structural parts. The mold was a piece of delrin with the corners radiused, the delrin as covered with thin teflon film as a release agent. After curing the excess was trimmed off althouth I still have to finish trim them. Pics:

    Trays with battery packs fitted.



    Cont'd
    Last edited by RaceMechaniX; 06-14-2010, 12:23 PM.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
  • RaceMechaniX
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2007
    • 2821

    #2
    I worked with Peter Zicha to design a pair of lightweight mounts to suit the 22 series of Neu motors on 5" rails with allowance for cooling jackets and good clearance on the output side to tuck the motor low down as possible in the hull. Peter cranked out some beautiful mounts which can be ordered from him if interested. Pics:





    Pic of the motor mocked up the Conquest. I will try and keep the the motor as far forward as possible to keep the bend in the driveline as minimal as possible.




    cont'd
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

    Comment

    • RaceMechaniX
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Sep 2007
      • 2821

      #3
      To start I applied some masking tape to the transom and marked the centerline of the hull. I marked a veritical line 3/16" to the right of the CL for the strut. I mocked up the strut using a plain rond bottom strut. I will use a skegged strut when the boat is ready to run. I used 1-2-3 bocks on a flat building surface to ensure the strut was perpendicular to the ride pads. The rudder bracket was mounted in similar fashion using the 1-2-3 blocks such that the blade is in inline with the right stringer.


      Another view of the strut and rudder. I did mill out a pocket in the strut to lighten it a bit and it looks better.


      I will be using a HiTech Digital servo for the rudder mounted to a plywood plate and glassed directly onto the floor. For heavy, fast boats I prefer to overdo the steering servo and always try to use a straight pushrod, i.e. no bends or kinks. I will have to raise the servo off the floor by a 1/2" to allow a straight shot to the rudder. Pic of the servo in the general location:


      Here are a couple of pics of of the rough layout.




      Next steps will be to bend a mock stuffing tube to calculate the angle the motor needs to be before mounting the motor or cutting the hole in the floor.

      I also need to decide how to best mount the Schulze 40.160. I am thinking either in the middle of the tub as shown, but it has long motor leads which are not desirable or to the side of the frame rail near the front bulkhead which does not look great.

      Stay tuned.

      Tyler
      Tyler Garrard
      NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
      T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

      Comment

      • RaceMechaniX
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Sep 2007
        • 2821

        #4
        Got a little work done tonight. Motor is mounted and starting working on the rudder servo mount.




        By the way all pics are available in higher def on IW here: http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?...lbum&album=855
        Tyler
        Tyler Garrard
        NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
        T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

        Comment

        • toysRme
          Member
          • Jul 2009
          • 75

          #5
          Ive got a Conquest with a 23cc Zenoah, very interested on how this goes.
          video please!!
          sitting on the side
          STUFF NITRO GO LIPO FASTELECTRICS.COM
          OFF-SHORE-ELECTRICS.COM
          INVENTOR OF LITHIUM CELLS:bowdow

          Comment

          • RaceMechaniX
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2007
            • 2821

            #6
            Did a little more work over the weekend.

            First I sanded the entire inside of the cat to remove all the rough edges, fiberglass splinters and non-saturated spots and then flow coated the entire inside with some polyester resin. Turned out pretty nice and although it adds a little weight it saves me from those annoying sharp fiberglass spines that stick you and makes wiping down the inside from grease/oil easy.

            Next I make a simple double ply plus carbon rudder servo mount which I sanded the bottom to the same V-contour as the cat hull. Its bonded with polyester and has a nice thick radius around the base where its joined for added strengh.



            Also visible in the last shot is the 5/32" carbon backing plate for the transom. This is just a nice addition to stop the transom hardware from pulling and deforming the wood transom over time. Tighten it once and forget it.

            Ther servo mount is from CC racing, nice simple bent aluminum bracket.

            I sketched up the stuffing tube and motor in CAD to find the best angle and minimal bend radius prior to drilling the motor mount holes. Ended up perfect and I was able to bend the stuffing tube exaclty which keeps the cable as free as possible. I also cut out a quick carbon plate to mount the Schulze to over the motor.


            Because the Schulze' overhangs the motor mount and I can not move it farther forward due to the cowl I machined a back support for the esc which fits between the 5" stringers. Its a piece of delrin hogged out to lighten it with some silicon foam rubber to dampen vibrations.


            Another view of the delrin support mount. This view also shows the cable oiler i made from an aluminum collar.




            Tyler
            Tyler Garrard
            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

            Comment

            • toysRme
              Member
              • Jul 2009
              • 75

              #7
              Looks good, nice workmanship.
              keep up the good work
              STUFF NITRO GO LIPO FASTELECTRICS.COM
              OFF-SHORE-ELECTRICS.COM
              INVENTOR OF LITHIUM CELLS:bowdow

              Comment

              • Brushless55
                Creator
                • Oct 2008
                • 9488

                #8
                very cool, I'm looking forward to the finished racer!
                oh and to see the video
                .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                Comment

                • DISAR
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 1072

                  #9
                  Very nice presentation! Keep going. How long is your flex shaft going to be? Will you use teflon?
                  Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
                  http://www.rcfastboats.com/

                  Comment

                  • RaceMechaniX
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 2821

                    #10
                    Originally posted by DISAR
                    Very nice presentation! Keep going. How long is your flex shaft going to be? Will you use teflon?
                    Thanks Guys,

                    Flex shaft is about 12" from collet to drive dog and it wil just run in the 5/16" brass tube without teflon. From my experience with gas and nitro using 1/4" lines the telfon would just burn up unless heavily oiled and cooled.

                    Tyler
                    Tyler Garrard
                    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                    Comment

                    • bonewar
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2008
                      • 549

                      #11
                      Nice work.

                      Very clean.

                      Thanks for posting your pictures.

                      CATS RULE!!!!

                      BONEWAR
                      SIMRAD MARITIMO TWIN 1512 NEU'S , M12 MARITIMO SINGLE 1527 NEU , SV27 1509 NEU , SV27 NITRO O.S. 18CV-R 3.0cc WATER COOLED RACE ENGINE.

                      Comment

                      • toysRme
                        Member
                        • Jul 2009
                        • 75

                        #12
                        Originally posted by bonewar
                        Nice work.

                        Very clean.

                        Thanks for posting your pictures.

                        CATS RULE!!!!

                        BONEWAR

                        STUFF NITRO GO LIPO FASTELECTRICS.COM
                        OFF-SHORE-ELECTRICS.COM
                        INVENTOR OF LITHIUM CELLS:bowdow

                        Comment

                        • crabstick
                          Senior Member
                          • Jul 2008
                          • 954

                          #13
                          Great build,
                          Matt.
                          FE, Nitro and Gas racing in Auckland
                          www.rcboats.co.nz

                          Comment

                          • Punisher 67
                            Ignore list member #67
                            • May 2008
                            • 1480

                            #14
                            Very nice so far Tyler .......................
                            Necessity is the mother of invention.............

                            Youtube Video's http://www.youtube.com/user/Titanis2000

                            Comment

                            • RaceMechaniX
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Sep 2007
                              • 2821

                              #15
                              She is getting close to the finish:

                              On friday, I chucked up the 2215 in the lathe and turned down the cooling fins to form an o-ring gland on each end. A 2.5" ID can will slip right over and seal reasonably.



                              Now with the Silicon O-rings added. I will also clean up the small chips on the fins prior to mounting the cooler.



                              I decided to mount the Schulze on its own set of mounts. I did not like it hanging partly on the motor and partly on the Delrin mount. The major downside to this is the length of motor cable I have to run. If the the long runs causes heating or interference problems I'll shorten them up and scoot the esc closed to the end bell.



                              I glassed in 1/2" ply spacers to the bottom of the battery trays to lift them off the floor. This allows me run velcro battery tie downs in four places per tray. The trays and spacers were then glassed into the tub using a heavy mix of polyester resin and chopped fibers.



                              Another view:



                              And another;



                              cont'd
                              Tyler Garrard
                              NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                              T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                              Comment

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