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It took me a while to get over that too but considering we're running SPEC, UL-1 motors, etc. on 4S, I didn't think the added resistance (If any) would be that significant. My 'jumper' wires in the transom are 10 guage with 5.5mm Connectors. Bigger than the original ESC and MOTOR wires anyway. I guess I should have shown that in the drawing.
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Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com -
I lilke your idea jim, but I would rather see the connector itself bonded to the transom eliminating one set of connectors and a more positive bond than wires alone... but I am getting picky. in the grand scheme of things it all goes out the window once you blow over! at least it was that way when I raced full size tunnels.
also, on this boat, the transom is far too low and it would require much longer wires than I already have. I need to able to slip this controller out easily since it is mounted so far back in the hull.Comment
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I used 3mm thick carbon plate to mount the servo. 2.5mm bolts are threaded into the carbon plate for quick easy access. I will final glue it later this eve. remember to sand ALL areas of contact otherwise you might as well glue it to waxpaper!Comment
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yes, but the motor is still very high so then longer wires are still needed. I am adding nothing to my wires for esc or motor...either way is good, as long as it works!Comment
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22. servo turned around for increased room for connectors coming out their guides. this allows me to run the s.s. guides closer to the servo. about 1/8" of clearance at the bottom of servo to floor keeping the CG as low as possible.Comment
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Is the RX going to go in front of servo ?Comment
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I forgot to say that I also run an RX pack, which sits directly under the servo.
RX and switch in front of servo.
But if you are running a P-SPEC setup, you won't need an RX pack or switch!
I have mentioned this before, but I glue aluminium tubes (about 1.25" long) into the cowl (or radio box on my other P-SPEC boats) then use the shrink wrap from an electrical supplier which has an epoxy or something inside it which melts with the heat and provides a perfect seal.
I have also glued the actual connectors to the cowling before and then just extended the wires coming off the motor to plug straight into them, but I still prefer the mothod I know use. Which I will again give credit to Mike Luszcz (cybercrxt)
Cheers
Kris
PS Dave, I would love to see some pictures of your boats?Comment
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yup, its gonna be p-spec to start. later I can find a good place for rx pack or just run a b.e.c.
those shrinks are the marine industry that self seal when heated. you can get them at any good marine supplier or electrical shop.Comment
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Sketch showing how to slide a tight o-ring over bellows
See attached sketchComment
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Ahhh I am with you now dave. Great idea.
Soo you glue a piece of tube into the hull like we do, then use the push rod seal to seal it off, instead of shrink, NEAT!
KrisComment
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23. I put in alu tubes because the s.s. tubes are not available for a while. They will get boots in the rear and seals up front.
24 and 25,
The low profile adapters for stock and mod motors from Kris Flynn. They have a bit of carbon dust on them from my bench but they are super clean and sharp.
I will rig up the P-spec motor first.Comment
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